SteveH
Hard Core 4+
Martin - with the 'rubber overdrive' of your 33s, you'll soon be 'driving 85 mph, in foam-seated comfort, with 7 men and all their gear', to paraphrase the Toyota ad from the 1960s. Your fender work looks very good.
Minnesota 40
- Thread starter MDH33
- Start date
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Finally got the proper lug nuts for the 40 and mounted up the stock steel wheels.
In process of swapping out the single circuit master for the early 70's dual circuit. Keeping the drums and no room for a booster. Using an adapter from jt outfitters.
The studs jto sent were too short but I had some m8 jis bolts that fit. Not much room, it barely touches the carb choke breaker diaphragm.
Bending up new lines today and hopefully get it bled and adjusted.
In process of swapping out the single circuit master for the early 70's dual circuit. Keeping the drums and no room for a booster. Using an adapter from jt outfitters.
The studs jto sent were too short but I had some m8 jis bolts that fit. Not much room, it barely touches the carb choke breaker diaphragm.
Bending up new lines today and hopefully get it bled and adjusted.
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MDH33
Hard Core 4+
The adapter itself is actually really nice and it shipped quick. The studs and 13mm nylock nuts they sent were pretty lame though.
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It’s a shame they skip the details that could make it a really solid kit.
Great to see the 40 back in action here! the color matched lettering on the tires is a nice touch also... while it lasts.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Ha! Yes. Since I don't have brakes, haven't been to car wash yet.
decided to go old school white letters out. 
My first fj40 back in 1992 had really early BFG AT's on it and I've had these on a few other trucks too. Kinda fun to revisit them. They're a lot lighter and softer than the load range E Toyo MT's on the 60.
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rckhound
Rising Sun Member
Looking good Martin!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
I got the brake system bled after the new master cylinder and lines and readjusted the drums. Took it for its first drive since the wheel falling off incident. Wow! Drives and stops so well! The new master cylinder was the ticket. Whole brake system is new now. The new tires and wheels are great and it drives super smooth. Kim and I took it on a long drive to a prarie area and went hiking. Longest drive yet with it, including some highway time. It's getting closer to regular/long-range driver status. 
Edit: first thing on the to do list after a long drive is to add a manual heat shut off valve like later 40s. It gets crazy hot in cab, especially on passenger side, when heat valve is left open, which is under hood.
Edit: first thing on the to do list after a long drive is to add a manual heat shut off valve like later 40s. It gets crazy hot in cab, especially on passenger side, when heat valve is left open, which is under hood.
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MDH33
Hard Core 4+
I'm in International Scout country. Need to make it known what the heck this highly superior Japanese machine is!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Haven't had any updates to the Minnesota 40 thread in awhile, so thought I would bump it up.
@nuclearlemon sold me a sweet set of oem fogs and I finally got them connected today. Used a switch from Toyotamatt and a cityracer harness. Works great! I removed my hand throttle when I converted carbs, so had the extra hole in the dash for the fog lamp switch.
Keep it clean!
@nuclearlemon sold me a sweet set of oem fogs and I finally got them connected today. Used a switch from Toyotamatt and a cityracer harness. Works great! I removed my hand throttle when I converted carbs, so had the extra hole in the dash for the fog lamp switch.
Keep it clean!
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Looking fantastic Martin!!!!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Thanks Marco, it's a really fun driver. Tight, rattle free and 3-on-the-tree!
Hoping to start on a little body work this summer too!
lookin good!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Follow up to my exhaust manifold issue:
risingsun4x4club.org
Back in May I developed a really bad manifold/exhaust leak. It seemed it was the manifold gasket, but after pulling the manifolds off, I found that the heat riser flap had seized open, the exhaust manifold was warped and the threads connecting it to the intake were stripped. The leak was happening between the exhaust and intake manifolds.
Here's day 1
Stripped threads into the intake and broke the studs on the down pipe...
My hunt for replacement manifolds stretched into weeks. I tried all I could to get the heat riser flap to move on the original and I couldn't get the broken studs out. Kept searching for a good unit and dropped off the original exhaust manifold off at local machine shop to see if they could do some magic. A couple more weeks passed. I got a set from Mud but they ended up needing work too. Stripped intake and frozen heat riser again.
I found a decent looking exhaust manifold on Ebay that already had the heat riser delete done. BUT, in PAKISTAN! After a couple more weeks of waiting, it arrived. Needed new studs for the downpipe which I added. I was able to fix my intake and I added a Cruiser Outfitters heat riser delete plate. The new exhaust and old intake mated up perfect.
Here's a pic. Pakistan exhaust manifold with heat riser delete and my wide runner intake on top. exhaust with frozen heat riser below.
I got it all back on the block using a remflex gasket. I needed to do a little carb adjustment after reassembly but it's running great! Sounds good/quiet and I was able to get the idle even lower than before.
Ironically, after weeks of waiting for the Pakistan part and getting it installed. My machine shop finally called and said the original is fixed and ready. Now I have spares I guess.
Looking forward to getting some miles in while the weather is nice. Might even pull the top! (needs a headliner too)
Found - Intake and exhaust manifolds late F
I Pulled my manifolds off my '69 FJ40 to fix what i thought was a leaking manifold gasket. Once off i found the exhaust manifold is warped, the heat riser flap is seized and the bolt holes securing the 2 together are stripped in the intake. I also snapped one of the downpipe studs off. Hoping...
risingsun4x4club.org
Back in May I developed a really bad manifold/exhaust leak. It seemed it was the manifold gasket, but after pulling the manifolds off, I found that the heat riser flap had seized open, the exhaust manifold was warped and the threads connecting it to the intake were stripped. The leak was happening between the exhaust and intake manifolds.
Here's day 1
Stripped threads into the intake and broke the studs on the down pipe...
My hunt for replacement manifolds stretched into weeks. I tried all I could to get the heat riser flap to move on the original and I couldn't get the broken studs out. Kept searching for a good unit and dropped off the original exhaust manifold off at local machine shop to see if they could do some magic. A couple more weeks passed. I got a set from Mud but they ended up needing work too. Stripped intake and frozen heat riser again.
I found a decent looking exhaust manifold on Ebay that already had the heat riser delete done. BUT, in PAKISTAN! After a couple more weeks of waiting, it arrived. Needed new studs for the downpipe which I added. I was able to fix my intake and I added a Cruiser Outfitters heat riser delete plate. The new exhaust and old intake mated up perfect.
Here's a pic. Pakistan exhaust manifold with heat riser delete and my wide runner intake on top. exhaust with frozen heat riser below.
I got it all back on the block using a remflex gasket. I needed to do a little carb adjustment after reassembly but it's running great! Sounds good/quiet and I was able to get the idle even lower than before.
Ironically, after weeks of waiting for the Pakistan part and getting it installed. My machine shop finally called and said the original is fixed and ready. Now I have spares I guess.
Looking forward to getting some miles in while the weather is nice. Might even pull the top! (needs a headliner too)
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
You're a glutton Martin. Glad someone is with old iron.
I thought it was hard to wait, like forever, almost two whole days for the Kansas City depot to get my latest order of lower arms to my local dealer.
Tools, plain white Toyotas are just tools to me. Haven't the patience to rebuild 'em like you. Good on ya.
But it's not like I don't suffer on them still. Prepping the frame for the Marlin LCA reinforcement kit (sorry Toyota, your modern frames are not impressing me) I was running the angle grinder without guards. I know, I know. Nicked my hand with 11,000 RPM of heavy twisted wire brush. Ouch. It's gonna leave a nice scar I think at least and it's at the gnarly stage that gets the bartender to look twice when I hand them money. Ya shoulda seen the other guy, name of Duh Walt.
I thought it was hard to wait, like forever, almost two whole days for the Kansas City depot to get my latest order of lower arms to my local dealer.
Tools, plain white Toyotas are just tools to me. Haven't the patience to rebuild 'em like you. Good on ya.
But it's not like I don't suffer on them still. Prepping the frame for the Marlin LCA reinforcement kit (sorry Toyota, your modern frames are not impressing me) I was running the angle grinder without guards. I know, I know. Nicked my hand with 11,000 RPM of heavy twisted wire brush. Ouch. It's gonna leave a nice scar I think at least and it's at the gnarly stage that gets the bartender to look twice when I hand them money. Ya shoulda seen the other guy, name of Duh Walt.
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MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Ouch ! 🤕 yeah those grinders can bite you in a hurry. We use them on the job with diamond cutoffs and cups for grinding concrete, etc. Lots of injuries over the years. I have never had a wire brush bite me like that though! Gnarly!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Have had intermittent charge/no charge issues so decided to change/upgrade the alternator and voltage regulator. ToyotaMatt hooked me up with new parts including his F alt adjuster, which is pretty slick. Toyota belts NLA but I found a Napa belt that fit. Charging perfectly now. 👍
