Minnesota 40

[Capriblue45]

I would replace both the pilot and throwout while you have the trans out. Not a job you want to do twice for such a minor cost.

 

[wesintl]

I would clean up the shaft with some emory paper and make it smooth and slide the pilot on and see how it it fits. As you know the shaft should spin the pilot bearing. It looks like yours spun on the input shaft until it locked on the bearing.

 

[MDH33]

I would clean up the shaft with some emory paper and make it smooth and slide the pilot on and see how it it fits. As you know the shaft should spin the pilot bearing. It looks like yours spun on the input shaft until it locked on the bearing.

The new pilot I got in a kit from Kurt is loose on the input shaft of the original, but snug on the shaft of the spare so I guess I'll swap it.

 

[MDH33]

I got everything swapped out on the 3 speed and that's all buttoned up.

On to the transfer case. I cleaned everything (what a mess! took forever) and inspected parts. All looked good. I ordered the dual seal speedo housing from Valley Hybrids, which will be here this week. When I ordered rebuild kits for the trans and transfer I couldn't find parts for the PTO. Both the PTO drive and the winch are leaking, so I'm going to remove it for now and rebuild them later. Kind of would prefer an oem winch instead of the ramsey anyway.

I took the 4wd vacuum switch apart and cleaned it up, replaced seals and gaskets. Here's the case all ready to go back together. Should be able to finish assembly today I hope.






The rebuild kits don't come with shims for setting the preload on the TC output bearings and my TC didn't have any in it. I set the races and I can already tell it's loose. Anyone have some spares from your rebuild? These are the shims that go between the speedo housing and bearing race in the back of the case.

 

[MDH33]

The needle bearing in the TC output shaft was fun. I used a blind hole bearing puller but all it did was destroy the bearing and left the race/casing stuck in the shaft. Doh!



Searched Mud for a solution and suggestion was to dremel a groove in it enough to weaken and break it. Came out in many pieces, but cleanly. New one went back in no problem. Not sure why they used such a tiny bearing for this. The one that connects the shafts in the Transmission are big roller bearings.












I like taking pictures of parts. ⚙

 

[LARGEONE]

mad skills. Way more impressive than what I have been doing in the garage

 

[MDH33]

mad skills. Way more impressive than what I have been doing in the garage

Ha! None at all really. I just like learning new things and having a reason to buy new tools.

 

[rover67]

I always cringe hammering in those roller bearings but it always seems to work. Taking them out is never super easy usually I end up doing what you did but with a cold chisel instead

 

[DaveInDenver]

I've got a tool to remove a similar style (but larger) roller bearing from the driver side output of a Tacoma front diff. Obviously larger ID but maybe gets the brain juices going.

I've also used a 2-jaw puller for this same operation. The hitch was catching the lip with those so for the second time I went with a task specific SST to make it easier.

 

[wesintl]

Solid work Martin! I enjoy the mechanical rebuild of such items as well.

 

[MDH33]

No question from your video. That's either pilot or throwout bearing (those only spin with the clutch pedal depressed). And you said the throwout was good, and that wear sure says it's a pilot bearing.

Dan

Finally pulled the clutch today. Confirmed the noise was the pilot. Totally disintegrated (and stuck)! Wish I had a version of that tool Dave posted above. Probably going to have to grind this one out too.

 

[wesintl]

use the bread method. it'll push it easy.

 

[rover67]

Was gonna suggest bread also

 

[MDH33]

use the bread method. it'll push it easy.

Was gonna suggest bread also

The covers and half the ball bearings fell out, so I don't think the bread trick will work. the rest should come out in pieces I bet.

I had to order shims from Toyota to set the TC preload, which will be here tomorrow. The new speedo housing with wide seal came today. Dropped the flywheel off to get surfaced.

Should I drop the oil pan to replace the rear main seal? Oil pan isn't leaking, but I do have a gasket on the shelf for it.

 

[rover67]

Man it sure seems like since you’re this far you might as well…

 

[DanS]

The covers and half the ball bearings fell out, so I don't think the bread trick will work. the rest should come out in pieces I bet.

Nope. The bread will work. You want soft bunny bread. It'll take 3 pieces with a mangled pilot bearing, but when you get it out, it will be clean as a whistle in there.

Dan

 

[FJCDan]

Bread method work on my pickup, took about 3 slices. End pieces seemed to work good.

 

[wesintl]

Def replace the rear main. I have never dropped the pan to replace the rear main. If the pan isn't leaking i'd leave it. JMHO

 

[MDH33]

Gave the slide hammer one last try after letting the pilot bearing soak in deep creep for a couple of days and it popped out.




I ordered a bunch of different thickness preload shims from Toyota and after a few tries found a combo that got me in the correct preload range. Now I can finish reassembling.

 

[MDH33]

Got the flywheel back - beautiful. I think I am going to pull the pan and do the gasket just because everything else under there has cleaned up so well and my OCD is kicking in.