Minnesota 40

[simps80]

Those advics brake hydraulic parts are good imo

I have bought a couple now off Amazon both were aisin stamped one for one of the forties and then the mew master for my 80

I heart this thread Martin!

 

[HDavis]

I found a thread on mud where someone put in a salvaged electric motor from a 4 runner heater into the rear 40 heater housing. I might try it if I can't get the original 2 speed to work.

Not that it's the same but I took the rear heater from a 3rd gen 4runner and was able to use it as well as the core in my stock Stout blower box.

 

[MDH33]

Just got an email from ccot that they're building my rear sill and it will be shipping next week.

 

[LARGEONE]

Wow...you're getting ready to go deep

I agree on the Advics MC....quality stuff from what I can tell. I need to get going again on the OG2! This tractor project is getting close to finished...for now.

 

[MDH33]

Wow...you're getting ready to go deep

I agree on the Advics MC....quality stuff from what I can tell. I need to get going again on the OG2! This tractor project is getting close to finished...for now.

Yeah, I have a pile of parts in the wings for when the temps get above freezing. 🥶 I was out in the -5°F garage today organizing and cleaning, spraying some PB blaster.

Can't wait to see more progress on the OG2!

 

[MDH33]

I got the extra rear heater from mud, the top and bottom were beat up and rusty, but the core and motor looked decent. The motor wasn't seized like my original, but it would not run. I got the two disassembled and cleaned the crud out. Both of the commutators were dirty and scored so I sanded those down and hit them with contact cleaner. The armature and stator/stack passed all the ohm tests. I got the seized bushing off the original, cleaned up the shafts, lubed them up and put them back together.

There's a stack of poly washers and a cup washer on each end that ride against the bushing and center the commutator to the brushes. Don't lose those! I must've knocked them onto my garage floor at some point and spent a bunch of time hunting for them. Once I got the motors assembled I connected a battery, but no dice. Nothing... crap. Took it back apart and realized I had put the bolts that hold everything in place backwards and it must have been shorting out on the base. oops.

The long bolts in the next pic are backwards.

Assembled

Tested them and they both work! Guess I have a spare now.

Tried inserting a video, but doesn't seem to be working...

Next I need to pressure test the cores and get one reinstalled in the 40. Supposed to be warmer this weekend, so hopefully will get that crossed off the list.

 

[arthog]

I have 2 cores that need fixing. How will you fix yours if they leak? Fortunately I had a 3rd core that was good.

 

[MDH33]

I have 2 cores that need fixing. How will you fix yours if they leak? Fortunately I had a 3rd core that was good.

I'm going to pressure test them in a tub of water, and if I find the leak, I'll mark it and then try soldering it. My original one looks like it just has a small leak right where the tube connects to the core.

 

[Hulk]

Video

Maybe this works?

Nope. Can you upload it to YouTube?

 

[DaveInDenver]

Nope. Can you upload it to YouTube?

View attachment 101642

Can you see it now? Let me know @MDH33 if it's not OK that I put it on Utoob.

 

[MDH33]

If you guys want me to stop posting my stupid, rinky-dink 40 project, please say so, I totally understand. I`m not doing cool engine swaps or building a king of hammers truck. I love reading those threads. It helps me aspire to more than my sad parts cleaning and maintenance...

Which is what I did this weekend...

Added some tools to the tool kit as well. Finally sourced the big screwdriver. My hammer is a replica by the original manufacturer, but at least it's complete! I was losing sleep about it. (I`m weird)

I`ve never dissected an early 40 door before! I did today.

I've had a couple of early style 40's in the past, and I was fine with jamming cardboard, gloves, beer cans, or any other material I could find into the window jambs to stop the rattles... this 40, however, deserves a little more, so I actually sourced oem felts and scrubbers to seal the windows.

I got super frustrated trying to disassemble (and reassemble) these things. Luckily, with a quick inquiry to Dr. Google, I was directed to a MUD thread with directions from professor Ige, and I was good to go. Thanks Ige!



Here's the old scrubber vs new oem. This 40 has aged well, but the rubber is petrified.

It still amazes me how rust free this 40 is. No rot in the doors or rear barn doors.

Difficult spot was reassembling the window frame with the new weatherstripping. And putting the wing window back together. What a pain in the arse! I'll be quicker next time, but damn. That stupid limiter washer doohickey requires some patience!

New scrubbers and felts done. This is the most rattle free 40 I've ever had the pleasure of driving.

 

[MDH33]

I also remedied the rear wheel being too far forward and too close to the fender after the OME lift. I didnt want to drill out the perch and original u bolt plates, so I found an aftermarket solution. Ruffstuff had some plates that shift the axle back an inch with no drilling and they're more heavy duty than stock. Easy fix. 👍

 

[rover67]

Please keep posting its great. I look forward to the updates and when I see “Minnesota 40” pop up it makes me happy

 

[Crash]

Martin, being new to your wonderful thread I say keep posting! Great to see well documented builds such as yours and Simps80’s. The real nitty gritty rocks. 👍🍺

 

[simps80]

I heart these threads Martin!!

Keep posting
Amazing work on the heater and the rest!

 

[Hulk]

This is my current favorite thread on the whole forum. Please keep posting all the things.

 

[MDH33]

Very good, Onward then!

Got the driver door weatherproofing finished up. It required some extra work. The little wing window pivot had broken off, so you couldn't open it. Luckily, that pivot piece was in the glove box with the other missing treasures. Cleaned it and the window frame up and tack welded in back on. Works great. I need to get some capri blue touch up paint mixed. I just hit the bare metal and weld with some primer.

The driver door limiter was also ripped, but barely hanging on, which is pretty common on the early doors. I welded that back on as well. The door limiter was also in the glove box.

Next project is to replace the single circuit master cylinder with an early dual master. I`m keeping the drums and no booster, so I got an adapter for the early 70's MC from jt outfitters. I also found a guy on mud parting out a 69, so I was able to get some oem splitters, brake line clips and extra 9mm fittings. I should be able to keep it looking pretty stock.

 

[Jacket]

Do you have a warm garage to work? Those Iowa winters are pretty brutal!

 

[Crash]

Do you have a warm garage to work? Those Iowa winters are pretty brutal!

Heck, Martin is from Michigan (Minn.?) so Iowa is practically Caribbean to him!

 

[MDH33]

Do you have a warm garage to work? Those Iowa winters are pretty brutal!

No! 🥶 I sure wish I did. Weird Winter, it's been fluctuating between single digits some days, 40's and 50's others. 3-4 inches of fresh snow today.

I've actually got a plan in to the city for a new 2+ car garage plus workshop, but they're super slow to approve. Hoping this spring to break ground, we'll see. Until then I have a my crappy 80 year old 1.5 car, spider infested damp garage and a storage unit.