rover67
Rising Sun Member
You could always try to rebuild what you have. Also not a for sure diagnosis just an idea.. I’ve had it happen and usually constant air bubbles means the master is taking on air on the upstroke of the pedal
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Minnesota 40
- Thread starter MDH33
- Start date
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Just an update. Had a buddy come over today and I gave the brake bleed another go around. 8 wheel cylinders x2 bleed. Finally got pretty good pedal also I was still seeing some tiny, frothy air bubbles here and there. It felt good enough that I decided to re-adjust, throw the wheels on and take it for a drive. First time it's been out of the garage in a couple of months since front axle service and brake job started, and with the 255/85r16's. (It fit under the garage door too) 👍
Started right up and idled nice, no smoke. Heat nice and warm and temp good. Took it for a test drive around the hood, then out on a country road. Brakes still require a few pumps and don't lock up, but it's driveable! The new suspension feels nice and steering is easier with the skinny tires. Rear springs need to settle, it's kind of stink bug. Might throw some sand bags in the back for awhile.
I got the spare tire to fit by moving the bracket up higher on the swing out. Not a perfect solution, but it works till I decide exactly what wheel and tire combo to run. Kind of still think the 255/85r16's are a little big for the OME 2.5" lift.
Pics from test drive
Started right up and idled nice, no smoke. Heat nice and warm and temp good. Took it for a test drive around the hood, then out on a country road. Brakes still require a few pumps and don't lock up, but it's driveable! The new suspension feels nice and steering is easier with the skinny tires. Rear springs need to settle, it's kind of stink bug. Might throw some sand bags in the back for awhile.
I got the spare tire to fit by moving the bracket up higher on the swing out. Not a perfect solution, but it works till I decide exactly what wheel and tire combo to run. Kind of still think the 255/85r16's are a little big for the OME 2.5" lift.
Pics from test drive
cbmontgo
Hard Core 4+
That rig is looking awesome, Martin.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Thanks, yeah the lift is a big improvement. I'm planning to attack the rust next spring.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I remember trying to rebuild the brake master on my 1956 Plymouth in high school, which was a single circuit all drum system, honing it and replacing the seals only to have the same constant struggle. Bleeding it worked for a while but over time you'd have to pump more and more often until even that didn't work anymore.
The bore was smooth but still had little rust voids just big enough to allow an exchange of air at the initial part of the piston stroke from resting. There was no replacement parts and I eventually wrecked my beloved Belvedere so never got to try KB Weld or welding and machining. Now-a-days it would be a candidate for doing a dual circuit with booster conversion of course.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Yeah, dual circuit from a later 40 and an adapter (no booster) are in the works. Looks like it will be pretty straight forward to plumb it and keep it looking mostly original.
Dave, i`m trying to picture you as a hs kid driving a 56 belvedere. I bet you got all the ladies.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I gotta see if I have more photos of it. My parents owned it before I was hatched and they drove it a while after as the family car.Yeah, dual circuit from a later 40 and an adapter (no booster) are in the works. Looks like it will be pretty straight forward to plumb it and keep it looking mostly original.
Dave, i`m trying to picture you as a hs kid driving a 56 belvedere. I bet you got all the ladies.
Put it in storage for a few years until I was old enough to drive it. Which I did for about a year before taking out a '74 Gran Prix on an icy evening. My poor Pinkie (it was white and red two-tone) lost a fender and hood but the Pontiac just plain lost.
Oh, yeah, you know it was quite the magnet. Nothing gets you dates like a 273 V8 with an oil bath air filter, two speed Powerflite and AM tube radio!
simps80
Rising Sun Member
Was it named Imelda?
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Pinkie
rckhound
Rising Sun Member
Man you truck is looking good Martin!
WOW, Looks awesome Martin!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Thanks guys! I got it back on the road just before its 1 year anniversary (and before the snow/salt season started).
I got a new mig welder for Christmas, so I've been out playing with it in preparation for a little bit of rust remediation in spring.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Martin...take a look at my 40 thread...I just did this on mine....dual zone with later master. Ran my own lines (recommend renting a legit bender, not the crappy ones from AutoZone or cheap ones you can buy). I also had the same problem getting good pedal with 4 wheel drums which was solved in that thread as well.Yeah, dual circuit from a later 40 and an adapter (no booster) are in the works. Looks like it will be pretty straight forward to plumb it and keep it looking mostly original.
Dave, i`m trying to picture you as a hs kid driving a 56 belvedere. I bet you got all the ladies.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
I was looking on the cruiser outfitters site and it looks like there are several versions of the dual circuit master that would work, oem and aftermarket. Which did you guys choose and why? Looks like the oem is more than double the cost too. What did you guys plug the splitter with? Any suggestions for a good source of high quality flare fittings?
That's what I've been running for the last 10+ years and I tend to agree. Not a show stopper by any means, but a bit too high of a ride. Are your shackles basically straight up and down? I am planning to drop down a size and run 235/85's when I get around to replacing my tires.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Martin, you should have 10mm fittings which you can find just about anywhere, which is nice. The onder ones have 9mm. The only thing you want to try to do is keep them 10mm and also keep the 11mm (I think) wrench head. A lot of the 10mm fittings have an SAE head, which works, but is tacky I think they also make a 10mm plug fitting? If not, I can show you what the PO did on mine. Let me look for the guy I bought all of my NiCop lines from and the fittings and I'll post up if I find him.
Another alternative, and I did this on a couple of my lines, is to measure the exact length you need and just order from this same dude already made. Then you don't have to worry about the crappy end tools. This is especially easy with the lines that you'll put the flex turns in...then they don't have to be the exact length...just add an extra half turn
I would also consider putting an inline adjuster for the rear in case you want to balance them later. They are pretty cheap, and you can hide it lower on the passenger side where the line drops down. I think the dual cylinder already compensates a bit, but it would be nice to adjust if necessary.
As for the aftermarket...go with the Advics if you don't do OEM. I think they might be Japanese made. If not, they at least seemed good quality stuff.
I think they also make a 10mm plug fitting? If not, I can show you what the PO did on mine. Let me look for the guy I bought all of my NiCop lines from and the fittings and I'll post up if I find him.Another alternative, and I did this on a couple of my lines, is to measure the exact length you need and just order from this same dude already made. Then you don't have to worry about the crappy end tools. This is especially easy with the lines that you'll put the flex turns in...then they don't have to be the exact length...just add an extra half turn
I would also consider putting an inline adjuster for the rear in case you want to balance them later. They are pretty cheap, and you can hide it lower on the passenger side where the line drops down. I think the dual cylinder already compensates a bit, but it would be nice to adjust if necessary.
As for the aftermarket...go with the Advics if you don't do OEM. I think they might be Japanese made. If not, they at least seemed good quality stuff.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Good advice, thanks Paul. I ordered the spacer from JT outfitters and MC from Cruiser Outfitters. Need to track down a proportioning valve, lines and fittings. It's funny, when I bought this 40, the brakes felt decent but I ended up replacing just about every component.Martin, you should have 10mm fittings which you can find just about anywhere, which is nice. The onder ones have 9mm. The only thing you want to try to do is keep them 10mm and also keep the 11mm (I think) wrench head. A lot of the 10mm fittings have an SAE head, which works, but is tacky
Another alternative, and I did this on a couple of my lines, is to measure the exact length you need and just order from this same dude already made. Then you don't have to worry about the crappy end tools. This is especially easy with the lines that you'll put the flex turns in...then they don't have to be the exact length...just add an extra half turn
I would also consider putting an inline adjuster for the rear in case you want to balance them later. They are pretty cheap, and you can hide it lower on the passenger side where the line drops down. I think the dual cylinder already compensates a bit, but it would be nice to adjust if necessary.
As for the aftermarket...go with the Advics if you don't do OEM. I think they might be Japanese made. If not, they at least seemed good quality stuff.
Decided to tear into the rear heater while I'm waiting on brake parts, and the temp outside actually crept above freezing today. The rear blower felt seized, and sure enough, I found the rear core has a leak, which probably caused the motor to fail. It was pretty corroded and once I opened it up, the brushes were stuck and the lower bushing is seized to the shaft.
I found another rear heater on mud, so i`m hoping between the two I can cobble one good unit together. I should be able to braise one of the cores, and hopefully the other motor is salvageable.
I found a thread on mud where someone put in a salvaged electric motor from a 4 runner heater into the rear 40 heater housing. I might try it if I can't get the original 2 speed to work.
Hmm.. I have a spare front blower, I wonder if the motor internals are the same? Might have to open it up and compare.
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Here is the guy I ordered pre-made lines, as well as a 20' coil of 3/16 NiCop for making my own. Both were of good quality and seemed reasonable. Just know that the ends he uses are the weird 10mm thread with a 3/8 or 7/16 head. Odd. You have to special order the JIS ones with the metric heads and 10mm threads. You can search online and find them. If I remember right, there was difference between the normal 10mm fittings and the Toyota ones...like the end, non-threaded portion, was longer on the Toyota fittings.
I also used thread sealant...the good stuff...on the threads because it seals hydraulic fittings REALLY WELL, and at the same time makes it easier to take them apart, should you ever need to.
These might work for plugging the Tee?
I was going to install a Wilwood proportioning valve, but I didn't. I think it is more important with disc brakes? Even after the new MC, it still took me a while to get all of the brakes adjusted well. I bench bled the MC, installed, and had very little to no pedal. Bled several times...still no pedal. Then, I adjusted the brake pads all the way until the wheel was hard to turn by hand and took it for a short drive and hit the brakes hard. Stops great now...once the pads got bedded in, I adjusted a bit more. Now, when I lift a tire, you can feel just the slightest bit of rub of the pads, but the wheel still spins freely and easily. It is also helpful to have someone press the brakes in between adjustments so they press even on both top and bottom. So, adjust a bit, spin the wheel, have someone press the brakes, and spin again. Hope that makes sense.
I also made sure to check the hubs to see if they were getting hot after driving the first few times. They should be a little warm, but you should not have any trouble putting your hand on them for a good length of time without having to remove. Anyway...I don't know that much about doing the brakes, but Zepp, Marco and others were a big help on the forum.
3/16" Brake Line 40 INCH Nickel- Copper 10mm x 1.0 Tube Nuts inverted Flare | eBay
3/16" Nickel Copper Brake Line, Straight Tube MADE IN USA. Fitting on Thread 10mm x 1.0. t wo Steel Brake Line Fitting for 3/16" or 4.50 MM Tubing. Universal Parking brake cables and parts GM Mopar Universal Hats Rotor only.
www.ebay.com
I also used thread sealant...the good stuff...on the threads because it seals hydraulic fittings REALLY WELL, and at the same time makes it easier to take them apart, should you ever need to.
These might work for plugging the Tee?
Brake Line Plugs, M10 x 1.0, Pair VW Dune Buggy Baja Bug Bus Thing EMPI 18-1103 | eBay
EMPI # 18-1103. These fittings can be used to block off any unwanted M10 x 1.0 brake line port. The male thread is M10 x 1.0 bubble flare. Brake Line Plugs, M10 x 1.0. LOCAL PICK UP.
www.ebay.com
I was going to install a Wilwood proportioning valve, but I didn't. I think it is more important with disc brakes? Even after the new MC, it still took me a while to get all of the brakes adjusted well. I bench bled the MC, installed, and had very little to no pedal. Bled several times...still no pedal. Then, I adjusted the brake pads all the way until the wheel was hard to turn by hand and took it for a short drive and hit the brakes hard. Stops great now...once the pads got bedded in, I adjusted a bit more. Now, when I lift a tire, you can feel just the slightest bit of rub of the pads, but the wheel still spins freely and easily. It is also helpful to have someone press the brakes in between adjustments so they press even on both top and bottom. So, adjust a bit, spin the wheel, have someone press the brakes, and spin again. Hope that makes sense.
I also made sure to check the hubs to see if they were getting hot after driving the first few times. They should be a little warm, but you should not have any trouble putting your hand on them for a good length of time without having to remove. Anyway...I don't know that much about doing the brakes, but Zepp, Marco and others were a big help on the forum.
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MDH33
Hard Core 4+
I got a care package from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. I have everything I need to convert to the dual circuit master cylinder. Also got new felts and scrubbers for the doors. New turn indicator assembly and dust boot for steering column. And some other misc. Parts. 
Brakes will wait a bit until weather warms up. It's supposed to be -15° tomorrow! Going to pull the doors off and bring them in the house to disassemble and install the weatherstripping parts.
Also got the extra rear heater from Mud. It looks really good and the motor spins, so I should be able to get that reassembled indoors as well. Still need to pressure check the heater cores and repair if necessary.
Brakes will wait a bit until weather warms up. It's supposed to be -15° tomorrow! Going to pull the doors off and bring them in the house to disassemble and install the weatherstripping parts.
Also got the extra rear heater from Mud. It looks really good and the motor spins, so I should be able to get that reassembled indoors as well. Still need to pressure check the heater cores and repair if necessary.