rover67
Rising Sun Member
You could always try to rebuild what you have. Also not a for sure diagnosis just an idea.. I’ve had it happen and usually constant air bubbles means the master is taking on air on the upstroke of the pedal
Thanks, yeah the lift is a big improvement. I'm planning to attack the rust next spring.That rig is looking awesome, Martin.
I remember trying to rebuild the brake master on my 1956 Plymouth in high school, which was a single circuit all drum system, honing it and replacing the seals only to have the same constant struggle. Bleeding it worked for a while but over time you'd have to pump more and more often until even that didn't work anymore.You could always try to rebuild what you have. Also not a for sure diagnosis just an idea.. I’ve had it happen and usually constant air bubbles means the master is taking on air on the upstroke of the pedal
Yeah, dual circuit from a later 40 and an adapter (no booster) are in the works. Looks like it will be pretty straight forward to plumb it and keep it looking mostly original.I remember trying to rebuild the brake master on my 1956 Plymouth in high school, which was a single circuit all drum system, honing it and replacing the seals only to have the same constant struggle. Bleeding it worked for a while but over time you'd have to pump more and more often until even that didn't work anymore.
The bore was smooth but still had little rust voids just big enough to allow an exchange of air at the initial part of the piston stroke from resting. There was no replacement parts and I eventually wrecked my beloved Belvedere so never got to try KB Weld or welding and machining. Now-a-days it would be a candidate for doing a dual circuit with booster conversion of course.
I gotta see if I have more photos of it. My parents owned it before I was hatched and they drove it a while after as the family car.Yeah, dual circuit from a later 40 and an adapter (no booster) are in the works. Looks like it will be pretty straight forward to plumb it and keep it looking mostly original.
Dave, i`m trying to picture you as a hs kid driving a 56 belvedere. I bet you got all the ladies.
PinkieWas it named Imelda?
WOW, Looks awesome Martin!
Man you truck is looking good Martin!
Martin...take a look at my 40 thread...I just did this on mine....dual zone with later master. Ran my own lines (recommend renting a legit bender, not the crappy ones from AutoZone or cheap ones you can buy). I also had the same problem getting good pedal with 4 wheel drums which was solved in that thread as well.Yeah, dual circuit from a later 40 and an adapter (no booster) are in the works. Looks like it will be pretty straight forward to plumb it and keep it looking mostly original.
Dave, i`m trying to picture you as a hs kid driving a 56 belvedere. I bet you got all the ladies.
Martin...take a look at my 40 thread...I just did this on mine....dual zone with later master. Ran my own lines (recommend renting a legit bender, not the crappy ones from AutoZone or cheap ones you can buy). I also had the same problem getting good pedal with 4 wheel drums which was solved in that thread as well.
I did mine the same as well. Made my own adapter and used an early 75 (drum/drum) master, iirc. The trickiest part of the conversion for me was plugging the no longer needed port near the front right wheel.
Kind of still think the 255/85r16's are a little big for the OME 2.5" lift.
Good advice, thanks Paul. I ordered the spacer from JT outfitters and MC from Cruiser Outfitters. Need to track down a proportioning valve, lines and fittings. It's funny, when I bought this 40, the brakes felt decent but I ended up replacing just about every component.Martin, you should have 10mm fittings which you can find just about anywhere, which is nice. The onder ones have 9mm. The only thing you want to try to do is keep them 10mm and also keep the 11mm (I think) wrench head. A lot of the 10mm fittings have an SAE head, which works, but is tacky I think they also make a 10mm plug fitting? If not, I can show you what the PO did on mine. Let me look for the guy I bought all of my NiCop lines from and the fittings and I'll post up if I find him.
Another alternative, and I did this on a couple of my lines, is to measure the exact length you need and just order from this same dude already made. Then you don't have to worry about the crappy end tools. This is especially easy with the lines that you'll put the flex turns in...then they don't have to be the exact length...just add an extra half turn
I would also consider putting an inline adjuster for the rear in case you want to balance them later. They are pretty cheap, and you can hide it lower on the passenger side where the line drops down. I think the dual cylinder already compensates a bit, but it would be nice to adjust if necessary.
As for the aftermarket...go with the Advics if you don't do OEM. I think they might be Japanese made. If not, they at least seemed good quality stuff.