What have you done to your rig today?

fyffer

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
598
Location
Trinidad, CO
Power steering all connected. 3,000 psi working pressure industrial hose - 12,000 psi burst strength - with AN ends to adapters. One to GM pump. One to Toyota gearbox.


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Nice, what type MAF will you be running, slotcard or Tube. Any changes to air intake ?
 

Inukshuk

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
8,051
Location
Denver, CO
Nice, what type MAF will you be running, slotcard or Tube. Any changes to air intake ?
the one that came with the Suburban
 

ODY80

Rock Stacker
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
28
Going down the rabbit hole for the emissions issue on my 1996 LX450 with 322k miles. It looked like the EGR system had never been serviced, so I decided to replace a few parts based on a guide I found and testing showing all these components were failing. I pulled off the upper intake manifold and found that most of the EGR-related ports were completely blocked. The hoses and components also showed their age, so I replaced those too.

I cleaned out all the passages and took care of the usual upgrades while I was at it. I had the fuel injectors cleaned at a local shop (shoutout to Fuel Injector Specialists) and also replaced the fuel filter. Fortunately, all the injectors were in great shape and cleaned up nicely!

After reassembling everything, the truck is running better than ever. Before the fixes, I was struggling with the emissions test— 4 out of 4 monitors were in "not ready" status. Now, I'm showing 3 out of 4 ready monitors. I'm still working on getting the Catalyst monitor sorted. I’m following a drive pattern I found on ih8mud: warming up to 176°F, driving for 7 minutes at 40-50 mph, then a 15-second break, followed by another 7~ minutes at 30-40 mph.

I've been on several long drives, but so far, still no luck with that last monitor. There’s been no check engine light or codes since the fix, though. I’m also running a bottle of Heet with 87 octane to see if that helps. Any advice or tips would be really appreciated!

some of the things that have been replaced during this
  • Valve cover gasket
  • EGR valve
  • VSV
  • PCV
  • vacuum hoses
  • spark plugs
  • sp wires
  • fuel filter
  • fuel injector rebuild
  • air filter
  • drivers side mirror
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AimCOTaco

Cruise Moab Committee
Staff member
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Aug 13, 2010
Messages
2,363
Location
Longmont, CO
Not to my rig... but I did a thing to my home office wall over the holidays.
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Regular cab gen 1 taco glass + stickers and beer :hill::thumb:
 

Notyourmomslx450

GIG 'EM GILL
Staff member
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
3,922
Location
Westminster
So, death wobble is sorted. This seems to be what the problem was.
Cleaned the weld up best we could and had to stack some welds. The old bugger welds are from when I tried to fix it last time.
Also installed the Redhead. Need to take some measurements so I can get my PSC ram and get the assist going.
If these welds break, I’ll be time to cut off the panhard mount and start over.
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ODY80

Rock Stacker
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
28
I reloaded the parts cannon and tried replacing the passenger mirror on @IoN6's recommendation.
Unfortunately, that did not seem to fix the emissions issue but it seems to have fixed my drive light on the cluster so I'll take what I can get 🍻.

Today on a follow-up attempt, I replaced the downstream O2 sensor. I was observing the O2S2 V and over time the readings were consistently < .1 with occasional spikes up to .4. The O2S2 graph line was tracking similar movements to the O2S1 V wave. After replacing the sensor I saw a significant difference in O2S2 wave activity.

That seemed to do the trick, catalyst monitor ready after going through the drive cycle.

Immediately headed up to the emissions testing facility and got a pass on all inspections. Good for now.



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JohnnyP

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2023
Messages
104
Location
Broomfield/Westminster
New shoes (315/75r16 AT4W’s) and wheels (Nomad, Sahara copperhead 16x8 -10 offset). Now time to clean up the rest of the cruiser. New bumpers sliders and maybe a wrap before Cruise Moab. Any one wrap a cruiser with crappy paint and dents before?
 

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Cruisertrash

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2020
Messages
2,879
Location
Denver
Isn't 50/50 good to -34°F?

I remember in the winter of 82/83, my FJ40 still started and ran when the bank thermometer across the street was showing -25°F!
Sorry, I didn’t mean 50/50 literally - that’s on me for not being accurate. It’s a mix, heavier on the water.
 

Corbet

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
9,232
Location
Durango, Colorado
-25º... you front rangers are so soft, not that its cold down here either. But when living in Frisco -25º was a warm morning in January. I never changed my coolant for cold weather. We did plug in the turbo Outback at night as it hated cold starts like that. All the normally aspirated stuff started fine.
 

Rzeppa

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
8,718
Location
Kittredge CO, USA
-25º... you front rangers are so soft, not that its cold down here either. But when living in Frisco -25º was a warm morning in January. I never changed my coolant for cold weather. We did plug in the turbo Outback at night as it hated cold starts like that. All the normally aspirated stuff started fine.

Er, I climbed Mt. Washington in NH in January 1977. The day we summited the temps rose all the way up to 0°F and the wind died down to 60MPH. We did have a couple of -40°F lows on that trip - snow caves are the way to go when out in that stuff, +32°F!
 
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