What have you done to your rig today?

Crash

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2005
Messages
4,405
Location
Denver
-25º... you front rangers are so soft, not that its cold down here either. But when living in Frisco -25º was a warm morning in January. I never changed my coolant for cold weather. We did plug in the turbo Outback at night as it hated cold starts like that. All the normally aspirated stuff started fine.
Best starting vehicle I had while living in Frisco was a ‘57 Ford half ton with the 272 V8 with unknown mileage. I remember -40 and -44 degree mornings and using the same starting method that worked in summer, two pumps on the gas pedal and it would fire right up. Don’t remember it having a choke but it might have. Great old truck.
 

shellb

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2013
Messages
900
Location
Erie CO
Hooked the wife up with new brakes! Don’t forget availability of a heated garage with lift if you ever need it…just ping me.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8440.jpeg
    IMG_8440.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 69

KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,820
-25º... you front rangers are so soft, not that its cold down here either. But when living in Frisco -25º was a warm morning in January. I never changed my coolant for cold weather. We did plug in the turbo Outback at night as it hated cold starts like that. All the normally aspirated stuff started fine.
We were lucky to be in Silverthorne for our time in Summit. I managed Mountainside HOA in Frisco for two years. It was rough walking that property in Winter. Most of Frisco was shaded out by 2pm in the winter by peak 1. So cold.
 

fyffer

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
598
Location
Trinidad, CO
I have custom 1/4" steel set weld to frame on mine, sliders, front and rear bumper. Sure there has to be some pro's and con's with either. Body lift to access certain areas is not my favorite thing to do. Knowing it does not budge is Positive, slammed the heck out of them a few times. But it'll stay for now. If ever a redo, I'll go your way.
 

fyffer

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
598
Location
Trinidad, CO
Threw a bead and banged up the rim, banged it out with some good help on the trail, it did hold air but not so sure it would have under pressure (got a new Rim). Tire back to swing out, well it's somewhere between 80-85 lbs. 35". Lifted and 3 studs to mate it to made it a little Tall and aligning a little more difficult. Found this method and it worked, not all that easy but by yourself and good practice for on my own, glad it did and could be good to share I thought. Procrastinated over it for a bit.


View: https://youtu.be/8bSsBK41OuE
 

KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,820
Slapped on the sliders and she has been on daily driver duty all week while the 80 gets some minor work. They will swap soon so the 60 can get a front axle rebuild.

2F with a 5 speed really is not that bad, but I benefit from a speed limit of 55 on my commute.

Bender needs some 15" wheels and pizza cutters.

20250119_150557~2.jpg
 

fyffer

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
598
Location
Trinidad, CO
Coming back from Moab in Oct, felt something wrong and been chasing it for a while, running a little rough code P0701. Today, changed all 8 coils and Sparkplugs from Delco to NGK. I know I found the problem, none of the above but the SP wire on cylinder 5.

Note, had to use an extension to brake the plugs free. No bueno
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0730.jpeg
    IMG_0730.jpeg
    700.1 KB · Views: 44
  • IMG_0731.jpeg
    IMG_0731.jpeg
    783.6 KB · Views: 46

dan1554

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
727
Location
Chaffee County
Rebuilt the rear brakes on not-my-rig. The e-brakes had seized on both sides. Chiseled and pressed out the copper shims and now it works great. Lots of white powder when I did that so there's gotta be a chemical reaction going on there. Im not great at drum brakes. Springs flying everywhere!

PXL_20250127_200716394.MP.jpg
 

Inukshuk

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
8,050
Location
Denver, CO

FJCDan

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2010
Messages
1,008
Location
West Denver
Way to go Daniel, major milestone:bowdown:
 

Inukshuk

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
8,050
Location
Denver, CO
LongCruiser:

Today I removed and resealed the oil pan with some permatex Great Stuff. Although purportedly you can put it back in service immediately I let it set up for a couple hours while I did some wiring and had dinner. Then after about 20 minutes of idling, all the oil started dripping again. 😞

Tomorrow I remove the exhaust, front driveshaft and unbolt rear driveshaft, unplug everything on the transmission and transfer case, remove the transfer case and transmission, and redo the rear engine plate and crankshaft seal.

Today, I also used a boroscope to look for where could be leaking and checked the oil pressure sensor, which was dry and the camshaft sensor, which was new and didn’t appear to have any oil puddling. There is also no oil coming from the crankshaft sensor.

Good news is that the transmission fluid leak is coming from the front of the transmission pan. Tomorrow after I drain the transmission for removal,I will install a new transmission gasket and use some of the Permatex in the front area.

Not sure what time I’ll get started. Anyone who’s interested in tossing around a transfer case and transmission is welcome to come up midday.
 

ferretlegger

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2018
Messages
16
Location
Moab, Utah
Hi Daniel,
Sorry to hear about the persistent leak! I have had success dealing with such things with UV dye and a UV flashlight (with yellow safety goggles). These are not expensive and all can be obtained from amazon. The dual wavelength flashlight is this one ($19.99). It works well:

UV 365nm and 395nm Flashlight, UV Blacklight for UV Glue Curing,Rocks & Minerals Hunting,Pet Stain Detector&Scorpion Finder, Dry Stain, Portable&Zoomable LED Ultraviolet Flashlight​


The UV dye is from interdynamics and is $7.99 for a small bottle:

InterDynamics Certified Auto Pro Oil and Fuel System UV Dye Leak Detection for Cars & Trucks & More, 1 Oz, 374CS, Universal​


The UV safety glasses I ordered are not available, but these should work fine ($10.99):

mozeeda UV Light Safety Glasses Protection,UVC 400 Blue Light Blocking Protective Glasses Goggles,Ansi Z87 Adjustable Temples Eyewear, Shaded Shatterproof Scratch Resistant Safe Sunglasses with Case​


One last thing- I was replacing rear axle seaals on a 2009 4Runner, and someone had removed old seals in the past with a hammer and screw driver, badly scoring the seal mating surface. Just pressing in the new seal resulted in lots of oil leakage. I tried again with the black RTV used for diff cases, etc. Same result (well cleaned surfaces each time). Finally one of the guys at Clarks Carquest in Moab recommended some sealer called

Permatex 25228 The Right Stuff 90 Minute Black Gasket Maker, 3 oz, 1 Count (Pack of 1).​

This stuff worked REALLY well. $11.77 for a tube.

Anyway good luck with all the repairs. To paraphrase Friedrich Nietzsche, What doesn't work after a bunch of tries makes you incandescent with rage and regretting some of your life choices...

Cheers,
Michael
 

Inukshuk

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
8,050
Location
Denver, CO
Yup that’s the gasket maker I bought. Dispenses like cheez whiz.

It was worth trying the pan reseal because easier than pulling the transmission.

The leak is a steady drip after about 10 minutes of idling. I have used dyes for slow AC and coolant leaks. I have checked everything I’m aware of except the rear cover and crank seal - which are covered by the bell housing.IMG_2556.jpeg
 
Back
Top