What have you done to your rig today?

DaveInDenver

Rising Sun Ham Guru
Joined
Jun 8, 2006
Messages
13,960
Location
Grand Junction
Yup that’s the gasket maker I bought. Dispenses like cheez whiz.

It was worth trying the pan reseal because easier than pulling the transmission.

The leak is a steady drip after about 10 minutes of idling. I have used dyes for slow AC and coolant leaks. I have checked everything I’m aware of except the rear cover and crank seal - which are covered by the bell housing. IMG_2556.jpeg
Pardon if I'm asking something you've already done. I really am trying to follow both threads. It seems you're focused on it being the transmission fluid but that looks more like engine oil. Have you given it a good smell or, I'm not completely kidding, taste? Rear main might explain all the clues pretty well.
 

Inukshuk

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
8,050
Location
Denver, CO
Pardon if I'm asking something you've already done. I really am trying to follow both threads. It seems you're focused on it being the transmission fluid but that looks more like engine oil. Have you given it a good smell or, I'm not completely kidding, taste? Rear main might explain all the clues pretty well.
The first most obvious drips were transmission fluid. I have clearly identified it coming from the transmission pan gasket which I will replace because tightening did not stop it completely. Since it was already a new gasket, I’m gonna use some of the permatex on the new transmission pan gasket.

Shortly after the transmission fluid appeared, the engine oil appeared. And it was dripping worse. 😞 everything that is not hidden by the bell housing has been checked. Sure, I could’ve missed something still. Hopefully I just did something really dumb when I installed the rear main seal and cover on the engine stand.
 

DaveInDenver

Rising Sun Ham Guru
Joined
Jun 8, 2006
Messages
13,960
Location
Grand Junction
The first most obvious drips were transmission fluid. I have clearly identified it coming from the transmission pan gasket which I will replace because tightening did not stop it completely. Since it was already a new gasket, I’m gonna use some of the permatex on the new transmission pan gasket.

Shortly after the transmission fluid appeared, the engine oil appeared. And it was dripping worse. 😞 everything that is not hidden by the bell housing has been checked. Sure, I could’ve missed something still. Hopefully I just did something really dumb when I installed the rear main seal and cover on the engine stand.
Got it Daniel. I can feel the frustration. We're all pulling for you.
 

Notyourmomslx450

GIG 'EM GILL
Staff member
Cruise Moab Committee
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Aug 4, 2014
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3,922
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Westminster
New wheels finally on.
Thanks @IoN6 for taking the lip off so the wheels would fit over the hub!
IMG_0419.jpegIMG_0420.jpegIMG_0417.jpeg.
 

SteveH

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
3,102
Location
Colo Springs
Replaced all 4 globes yesterday (Japan-shipped set) on the '99 LX470. Put truck in the air on 4 ramps and lowered AHC to lowest setting and used a minimal-fluid-loss method (but bled a lot out anyway). Used a 36mm Ford fan clutch wrench set and various hacks to unscrew the globes. Old globes dated 1/99, so they were original at 336K miles. A messy job, but not difficult.

Bled, flushed, measured pressures with Techstream. Front pressures are too low - presume I need to dial back the torsion bars to let the AHC pick up more weight. The ride is improved over small pavement cuts.
 

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Mile.High.80.Guy

Rock Stacker
Joined
Nov 19, 2024
Messages
41
Location
Arvada
Tracked down the O2 sensor issue: Harness had one whole pin and wire that were corroded to hell.

Thankfully the manifold to downpipe nuts came off without a fight, the cat nuts and bolts all snapped off cleanly (NBD) but those damn O2 bung nuts and studs were chiseled off or came off with a stripped nut bit, PHEW! Then heated and doubled nutted the studs and snapped two.

Time to weld on new ones! :weld:

...
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Notyourmomslx450

GIG 'EM GILL
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Aug 4, 2014
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Westminster
Dang that looks good
I did end up running spacers. I didn’t like how close the tire was the the coilover reservoir when just turning lock to lock.
 

IoN6

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Messages
1,276
Location
Arvada
Dang, they have them in an offset that would work without 'em?
 

Notyourmomslx450

GIG 'EM GILL
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Westminster
Dang, they have them in an offset that would work without 'em?
They would probably be fine, but I didn’t want to chance it.
 

jeffcon

Rock Stacker
Joined
Mar 16, 2024
Messages
39
LCA replacement 2011 4runner (bushings bad, and seized cams) :rolleyes:

As is standard with 4runner LCAs, had to cut them off
89111E56-172D-426B-B1C1-88C75C179004_1_105_c.jpeg

Tried your standard Harbor Freight and even Milwaukee blades, HF obv did nada, Milwaukee ones though.. also nada.. The answer? El Diablo
45841631-6F24-4768-8752-931D1DD0DBB2_1_105_c.jpeg

Made quick work of all 8 necessary cuts, my arms and body are sore (no lift in my garage, and about 6" on each side, yeah it's cramped)
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Picked up some octagon cam lobes from Bison Offroad to stop my alignment from getting bumped each time I go off the pavement.
7C5E4C60-3010-4EDF-8C40-4F0CEEED5FEA_1_105_c.jpeg


Of course, now I rely on the cam adjustment tabs, those will probably flatten next. You bet I used copious amounts of anti-seize on this new hardware.

Off to an alignment tomorrow :cool:
 

Inukshuk

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
8,050
Location
Denver, CO
Removed and replaced the transmission and transfer case to get to the rear crank seal. I had definitely installed that sucker too high, which either tweaked the bottom ability to seal or left the gap at the top. Since the oil dripping didn’t start till it was warmed up about 15 minutes, I’m guessing top but don’t really know. Any event, new gaskets and seals in using the alignment tool and confidence is high.
Could not have completed it without @satchel
Actually, couldn’t have done any of this project without him, but he physically worked on it today.IMG_2563.jpegIMG_2567.jpegIMG_2568.jpeg
 

RDub

Trail Ready
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
369
Location
Boulder, CO
I’ve been struggling to pass emissions testing with my 60. It’s close, slightly high HC, but all else in spec. Today I decided to try to determine if the catalytic converter is working. It’s the original unit, and the truck had been running rich for quite a while not long ago. My thinking was the temperature of the exhaust exiting the cat should be significantly higher than the exhaust entering the cat, at least in a general sense, probably upwards of 100-/150F higher, maybe more. Does that sound reasonable?

What I did was use a hose clamp to attach thermocouples to the outside of the exhaust pipe directly upstream and directly downstream of the cat, drive around to get things really warmed up, flats, up long hills, downhill…What I saw is the temps were generally the same on the inlet and outlet pipes. Here are a few pictures of the setup and one data capture:
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Am I right suspecting the cat isn’t working properly?
 

Cruisertrash

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2020
Messages
2,879
Location
Denver
I’ve been struggling to pass emissions testing with my 60. It’s close, slightly high HC, but all else in spec. Today I decided to try to determine if the catalytic converter is working. It’s the original unit, and the truck had been running rich for quite a while not long ago. My thinking was the temperature of the exhaust exiting the cat should be significantly higher than the exhaust entering the cat, at least in a general sense, probably upwards of 100-/150F higher, maybe more. Does that sound reasonable?

What I did was use a hose clamp to attach thermocouples to the outside of the exhaust pipe directly upstream and directly downstream of the cat, drive around to get things really warmed up, flats, up long hills, downhill…What I saw is the temps were generally the same on the inlet and outlet pipes. Here are a few pictures of the setup and one data capture:
IMG_6158.jpeg
IMG_6157.jpeg

IMG_6159.jpeg

Am I right suspecting the cat isn’t working properly?
God Ross, this is brilliant. Great detective work.
 

fyffer

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
598
Location
Trinidad, CO
Did a search on Spaghetti wiring here. @FireMike had a pic. Decided I only had some noodles things going on, I’m slow af doing things, but decided I’ll try. Smirks i got from a very costly Pro didn’t sink in until about now nor did their comments of PO and swap installer ref either.
Me and electric is about as dangerous as smoking filling up gas at Station (no,not me).
What was left me is what I’m going to try to fix. Not until it works will I share/update this again maybe.
 

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Inukshuk

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
8,050
Location
Denver, CO
image.jpgimage.jpgGot the transmission and transfer case back in yesterday and today finished reconnecting a whole bunch of stuff. Just ran it for 30 minutes and no oil drip. Tiny drip of transmission fluid from the front edge of the pan so maybe I need to buy a new pan maybe this one’s bent but that’s not a big deal so I’m gonna keep putting it back together!
 

Capriblue45

Rising Sun Member
Joined
May 28, 2023
Messages
380
God Ross, this is brilliant. Great detective work.
spoke with @JohnnyP last night after the meeting about the elevated emission readings on my FJ45. Being a South America truck it has none of the North American emission equipment. Spent some time this morning detuning it and the old 200K 2F passed with ease. Thanks for the advice Johnny.
 

JohnnyP

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2023
Messages
104
Location
Broomfield/Westminster
spoke with @JohnnyP last night after the meeting about the elevated emission readings on my FJ45. Being a South America truck it has none of the North American emission equipment. Spent some time this morning detuning it and the old 200K 2F passed with ease. Thanks for the advice Johnny.
Now bump that timing back to 10 degree btdc and go drive it until the next time!
 
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