Switch Panels - who’s using what?

[Corbet]

Yah, there are some pretty specific instruction for the Switch-Pros control panel in the instructions. I followed them and don't have any concerns but hope I don't have an issue seeing as my kit sat on my work bench for like 5 years before ever installing it. I'd do it again for the LC-250 as I'm super happy with the interior bezel I found. It really has an OEM look.

 

[Runnin on E]

Also, I should note, I am pleased with my Switch Pros now that it is installed & working. But I'm having difficulty wiring the set of 6 two toned lights on my roof rack, due to AMP limitations per each switch. So I'm currently only able to run a few lights, the others and the secondary side lights aren't wired up.

Use your switch panel to run higher amp relay for each light. There are relays that have fuses incorporated, which makes for an easy clean install.

 

[VoodooBlue_Vixen]

Use your switch panel to run higher amp relay for each light. There are relays that have fuses incorporated, which makes for an easy clean install.

I'd like to run 4-6 lights on one switch. Which is too much for the higher amp switches. Electrical is over my head...

 

[Runnin on E]

4-6 LED lights? You can split those lights with two relays that can be run off of your one switch in your switch panel. The "high" current wire is run separately to the relays and the switch panel is used to turn the relays on/off. Toytec should be able to handle that for you.

 

[VoodooBlue_Vixen]

4-6 LED lights? You can split those lights with two relays that can be run off of your one switch in your switch panel. The "high" current wire is run separately to the relays and the switch panel is used to turn the relays on/off.

I'll message you separately. Because I'll need a little more info.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Good thread as I am trying to figure out where the heck to add any aux switches in the 570.

 

[Corbet]

I'd like to run 4-6 lights on one switch. Which is too much for the higher amp switches. Electrical is over my head...

There are a number of ways to do this. These switch panels can make it easier and give you the ability to switch one light a time or in groups. Some have what’s called a trigger wire or circuit. For example you connect a trigger circuit to your OEM high beams so the switch panel senses 12v when you turn on your high beams. Then you program which circuits within the panel should activate with your high beams. One or more.

That’s probably the most common way but there are other options. The panel that seems to have the most options in this respect is the Diode Dynamics “D Switch”. There is a pretty good video in the link below showing the possibilities.

Diode Dynamics D-Switch 8-Channel Switch Panel

<div class="dcol1 ddescr"> <div class="block1"> <h3>Features</h3> <ul> <li>Group and control multiple outputs with a single button.</li> <li>Dedicated backlight channel to control your accent lighting.</li> <li>Fast, responsive Bluetooth App - no lagging or loading screens!</li> <li>Solid-state...

www.diodedynamics.com

This is my #1 choice to put in my son’s 4Runner if money is no object. I’m my case mainly because I’m planning to do some lighting upgrades with Diode Dynamics lights and their panel has the dedicated backlight circuit which pairs very nice with their lights of course. If I use something else I’ll wire the backlighting into the OEM parking light circuit.

The initial install takes some time but isn’t really that bad. You just don’t want to cut corners with any wiring modification. Take your time insulate and secure the wires against vibration. A short circuit can lead to a fire real fast. All these panels are designed to help prevent overloads and shorts. Plus many of them offer near OEM appearance which is a huge appeal for me. I like my dash clean and without excessive clutter.

I’ll close with while the upfront cost of one of these panels seems hard to swallow. If you add up the cost of wires/connectors/relays/switches it would not be a stretch to spend nearly the same on 6-8 circuits pending loads and your switch choice.

 

[Runnin on E]

"A short circuit can lead to a fire real fast."

Why? Did someone forget to add a fuse?

I think what Voodoo is referring to is the light bar total current draw is higher than the highest current circuit still available in her switch panel. Maybe there are other lights also that need to be added to the one switch circuit left? But they can all be run off of the one switch (left) buy using a few additional power supply relays. The only drawback is turning all of those on at the same time, it sounds like it would be almost daylight after. It can be advantageous to select a few at a time, but with only one circuit left? Maybe it would be worth reviewing the circuits that are already wired to see if lights can be moved to other circuits. But that might be just another current limited problem there also. Or are all of those lights really necessary? Im sure when running at night the more lights available the better but there is a practical limit (like alternator capacity) More work, more money....

 

[Corbet]

"A short circuit can lead to a fire real fast."

Why? Did someone forget to add a fuse?

I had a circuit short out once between the battery terminal and the fuse. The wire rubbed on the edge of the battery and grounded out. It sucked.