Well I’m deep into it now.
Switch Panels - who’s using what?
- Thread starter Corbet
- Start date
The wiring harness is not connected yet but pretty happy with this mounting bezel. Definitely the OEM look I wanted.
Big hands are not your friend here.
Big hands are not your friend here.
This is turning into a whole weekend project. Well I did hunt this morning and had to run to town and back.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I don’t understand your question. They meet the current demand specs.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Edit to add:
Up to speed now. Looked up the SP9100, the single wire circuits are 20A and the double wire are 35A. Barrier strip should be fine for normal aux loads, rated for 20A. Didn't know that. Those switch panels seem tidy.
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I choose barrier strip as a way to terminate the circuits from the switch-pro. I only have use for two switches currently and didn’t want a bunch of loose wires for the foreseeable future. The strip is a Blue Sea unit rated at 65amp per circuit.
Rlong
New-ish
I like the buss bar / barrier strip, clean and easy as you add circuits, easy to troubleshoot. If a buss bar is good enough for my early OEM 62’ FJ40 and 63’ FJ45 front light harness’ it’s good enough for this. 
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Gotcha @Corbet. Blue Sea seems to sell 3 versions, the #6 screw (like I found on Mouser, those are 20A), a #8 (30A) and #10 (65A) like you're using. All squares with the OEM.
Was curious because you can sometimes find them cheaper (like the Littlefuse 880159 model of the Blue Sea 7620100 ML-ACR used to be about $50 cheaper) and they sometimes sell accessories Blue Sea doesn't. Like a terminal cover.
The Blue Sea 2608 is probably the Eaton TB400-08, but unfortunately Eaton don't make a cover for it. FWIW, Eaton rates them for 75A per pole, so that's nice.
Another FWIW, when trying to figure out what they recommended for over-current came across this disclaimer, which is a round about way of saying what I was asking. When you expose the ends of the wire moisture and corrosion can creep up under the insulation and get inside the device.
As you know they say they don't need them. Having designed my fair share of over-current and inrush limiting I don't 100% trust it under short circuit (FETs tend to fail shorted first, which avalanches to large current that cooks them into blowing open). So belt-and-suspenders here and usually put fuses or breakers anyway...
Was curious because you can sometimes find them cheaper (like the Littlefuse 880159 model of the Blue Sea 7620100 ML-ACR used to be about $50 cheaper) and they sometimes sell accessories Blue Sea doesn't. Like a terminal cover.
The Blue Sea 2608 is probably the Eaton TB400-08, but unfortunately Eaton don't make a cover for it. FWIW, Eaton rates them for 75A per pole, so that's nice.
Another FWIW, when trying to figure out what they recommended for over-current came across this disclaimer, which is a round about way of saying what I was asking. When you expose the ends of the wire moisture and corrosion can creep up under the insulation and get inside the device.
As you know they say they don't need them. Having designed my fair share of over-current and inrush limiting I don't 100% trust it under short circuit (FETs tend to fail shorted first, which avalanches to large current that cooks them into blowing open). So belt-and-suspenders here and usually put fuses or breakers anyway...
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Now that the 250 is flowing electrons I’m diving into the Auxbeam specs for the 80. @nakman do your Auxbeam panels include trigger circuits? It looks like only the knob switch panel includes that feature.
auxbeam.com
🆕KS-80 Knob RGB Switch Panel MAX 120A ,Light Dimming, Dynamic Chase, Four External Triggers, 4 Modes
The Auxbeam KS-80 Knob Switch Panel features light dimming, dynamic chase, and four triggers. Control your truck or off-road vehicle lighting with four modes.
auxbeam.com
no trigger circuits here.
Just found a new option. Need to dive it to it deeper.
grabtechaustralia.com.au
Toyota LandCruiser 80 Series Switch Panel Grab Handle | GrabTech
Shop the GrabTech wireless switch panel grab handle for Toyota LandCruiser 80 Series 1990–1997. Control your 4WD accessories with a clean OEM+ fit.
grabtechaustralia.com.au
zgfiredude
Lifted
Did some looking at this…I am a fan! This will likely be a Christmas present from me to me!
Did you notice if there was an option for triggered circuits off things like your brights?
zgfiredude
Lifted
I did not. It is wireless an has a power switch on the handle. I think you could wire the control box to run that way as it’s in the engine bay, but you may have to power on the handle? Or maybe it would work and offer over ride switching when powered on?
I just watched the install video. There is an ignition hot trigger circuit only. If you want to pair a switch to your high bears or other you’ll have to run an external relay. The price is attractive and the install looks really clean.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
That's cool! Wish it was available for a 3rd gen Tacoma but we also don't have a grab handle on the driver's side although when I've taken off the A pillar trim it looks like one could be installed.
BMFS33
New-ish
Well I’m deep into it now.
I wish I had this skill. That's well done. I'm having a SwitchPro 9100 installed. I'm using 4 ports, which will leave me 4 for future expansion. Once the Switch Pros is in, then I should be able to figure out how to wire lights into the switch. I would not touch electrical to set up the switch though I'm also not wild about pulling apart the dash and trying to get it back together again. Rattles drive me mad.
If anyone has a project like this going on, I'd be happy to be a second pair of hands and learn how to do some of this stuff.
BMFS33
New-ish
These pictures show the mounting bracket from Slee that I will be using with my SwitchPro 9100. I like this set up, it's dimmable, gives me a very clear view of each button, and includes a mounting ball that I will use for my GMRS rather than using space on my Bulletpoint mount. I think I'm just as excited about the mount.
Attachments
VoodooBlue_Vixen
Rising Sun Member
FWIW - I have a Switch Pros, and had to have it replaced when it's computer went haywire back in 2021. If you ever run into that or another issue that causes a need to have it replaced under warranty, they are REAL STICKLERS about how it was installed, if you used a fuse block, how it was mounted, etc. I was lucky enough to have purchased it through Toytec lifts, and they were able to get it replaced under warranty. But I was close to being out a few hundred dollars. Now they cost even more than what I bought mine for 7ish years ago.Gotcha @Corbet. Blue Sea seems to sell 3 versions, the #6 screw (like I found on Mouser, those are 20A), a #8 (30A) and #10 (65A) like you're using. All squares with the OEM.
Was curious because you can sometimes find them cheaper (like the Littlefuse 880159 model of the Blue Sea 7620100 ML-ACR used to be about $50 cheaper) and they sometimes sell accessories Blue Sea doesn't. Like a terminal cover.
The Blue Sea 2608 is probably the Eaton TB400-08, but unfortunately Eaton don't make a cover for it. FWIW, Eaton rates them for 75A per pole, so that's nice.
Another FWIW, when trying to figure out what they recommended for over-current came across this disclaimer, which is a round about way of saying what I was asking. When you expose the ends of the wire moisture and corrosion can creep up under the insulation and get inside the device.
As you know they say they don't need them. Having designed my fair share of over-current and inrush limiting I don't 100% trust it under short circuit (FETs tend to fail shorted first, which avalanches to large current that cooks them into blowing open). So belt-and-suspenders here and usually put fuses or breakers anyway...
Having gone through that, I bought an Auxbeam for my 1st Gen 4runner, and love it. Unfortunately, that truck hasn't moved in over a year.
But when it was, I was more than pleased with the switch panel, the installation, the connections of lights, etc. Also, I should note, I am pleased with my Switch Pros now that it is installed & working. But I'm having difficulty wiring the set of 6 two toned lights on my roof rack, due to AMP limitations per each switch. So I'm currently only able to run a few lights, the others and the secondary side lights aren't wired up.
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