Well I’m deep into it now.
Switch Panels - who’s using what?
- Thread starter Corbet
- Start date
The wiring harness is not connected yet but pretty happy with this mounting bezel. Definitely the OEM look I wanted.
Big hands are not your friend here.
Big hands are not your friend here.
This is turning into a whole weekend project. Well I did hunt this morning and had to run to town and back.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I don’t understand your question. They meet the current demand specs.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Edit to add:
Up to speed now. Looked up the SP9100, the single wire circuits are 20A and the double wire are 35A. Barrier strip should be fine for normal aux loads, rated for 20A. Didn't know that. Those switch panels seem tidy.
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I choose barrier strip as a way to terminate the circuits from the switch-pro. I only have use for two switches currently and didn’t want a bunch of loose wires for the foreseeable future. The strip is a Blue Sea unit rated at 65amp per circuit.
Rlong
New-ish
I like the buss bar / barrier strip, clean and easy as you add circuits, easy to troubleshoot. If a buss bar is good enough for my early OEM 62’ FJ40 and 63’ FJ45 front light harness’ it’s good enough for this. 
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Gotcha @Corbet. Blue Sea seems to sell 3 versions, the #6 screw (like I found on Mouser, those are 20A), a #8 (30A) and #10 (65A) like you're using. All squares with the OEM.
Was curious because you can sometimes find them cheaper (like the Littlefuse 880159 model of the Blue Sea 7620100 ML-ACR used to be about $50 cheaper) and they sometimes sell accessories Blue Sea doesn't. Like a terminal cover.
The Blue Sea 2608 is probably the Eaton TB400-08, but unfortunately Eaton don't make a cover for it. FWIW, Eaton rates them for 75A per pole, so that's nice.
Another FWIW, when trying to figure out what they recommended for over-current came across this disclaimer, which is a round about way of saying what I was asking. When you expose the ends of the wire moisture and corrosion can creep up under the insulation and get inside the device.
As you know they say they don't need them. Having designed my fair share of over-current and inrush limiting I don't 100% trust it under short circuit (FETs tend to fail shorted first, which avalanches to large current that cooks them into blowing open). So belt-and-suspenders here and usually put fuses or breakers anyway...
Was curious because you can sometimes find them cheaper (like the Littlefuse 880159 model of the Blue Sea 7620100 ML-ACR used to be about $50 cheaper) and they sometimes sell accessories Blue Sea doesn't. Like a terminal cover.
The Blue Sea 2608 is probably the Eaton TB400-08, but unfortunately Eaton don't make a cover for it. FWIW, Eaton rates them for 75A per pole, so that's nice.
Another FWIW, when trying to figure out what they recommended for over-current came across this disclaimer, which is a round about way of saying what I was asking. When you expose the ends of the wire moisture and corrosion can creep up under the insulation and get inside the device.
As you know they say they don't need them. Having designed my fair share of over-current and inrush limiting I don't 100% trust it under short circuit (FETs tend to fail shorted first, which avalanches to large current that cooks them into blowing open). So belt-and-suspenders here and usually put fuses or breakers anyway...
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Now that the 250 is flowing electrons I’m diving into the Auxbeam specs for the 80. @nakman do your Auxbeam panels include trigger circuits? It looks like only the knob switch panel includes that feature.
auxbeam.com
🆕KS-80 Knob RGB Switch Panel MAX 120A ,Light Dimming, Dynamic Chase, Four External Triggers, 4 Modes
The Auxbeam KS-80 Knob Switch Panel features light dimming, dynamic chase, and four triggers. Control your truck or off-road vehicle lighting with four modes.
auxbeam.com
no trigger circuits here.