SteveH
Hard Core 4+
Drum axles - could be converted if late enough: https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/toyota-fj40-land-cruiser-axles/6646206453.html
OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)
- Thread starter LARGEONE
- Start date
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Thank you. They look like older axles but I'd have to ask the owner.
UPDATE: I have a new brass bushing on its way from SOR. Pricey, but not many options. So now I have to find some sort of puller. Either like this...
Or like this...
I could also use a brake cyl hone if someone has one since I will have to hone out the new bushing to fit my DS. Anyone?
Lastly, when I ordered the brass bushing, there was a change in part number in late 1967. Is the '68 drive shaft a different diameter or something? They are both coarse splined, so I'm wondering why there would be a different bushing for the '67 vs '68?
Click on this link and then on "axle and axle housing" at the top, then on item #70 and you will see 3 different sizes/PNs for this axle bushing:
https://www.sor.com/cat080.sor#080B1A
Thanks, all! Keep the help comin'!!!
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ccslider
Hard Core 4+
Paul I have this slide hammer kit that should pull those and I have a brake hone.
I won't be back from Asia until the 30th but you can use it if you want.
If you need it before then I can ask the wife to dig it out of the garage for you. The hone is in my work truck although. I know Napa sells them.
The best thing would be goto autozone and rent this tool for free.
OEM axle bearing puller
I won't be back from Asia until the 30th but you can use it if you want.
If you need it before then I can ask the wife to dig it out of the garage for you. The hone is in my work truck although. I know Napa sells them.
The best thing would be goto autozone and rent this tool for free.
OEM axle bearing puller
simps80
Rising Sun Member
i have a inner axle bearing puller set that might work to pull out the old one, exactly as pictured above...you can see my shade tree use of said here...
http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showpost.php?p=284232&postcount=370
shade tree in the sense that this set is designed for use with a 5/8 slide hammer, and aint no slide hammer in the world gonna pull them bearings.....your bushing? with a slide hammer? maybe.
but my bigger concern wouldnt even be the clearancing of the new bushing, or removal of the old bushing...
it would be the installation of the new one without messing it up...
i have a set of seal/bearing/race installers as well, designed to give before steel cause they are aluminum tools..., but that bronze is softer than aluminum...
you are welcome to use any of this stuff, and we could potentially try it together, but I would feel better if...
any of the old timers here done this ?!?
http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showpost.php?p=284232&postcount=370
shade tree in the sense that this set is designed for use with a 5/8 slide hammer, and aint no slide hammer in the world gonna pull them bearings.....your bushing? with a slide hammer? maybe.
but my bigger concern wouldnt even be the clearancing of the new bushing, or removal of the old bushing...
it would be the installation of the new one without messing it up...
i have a set of seal/bearing/race installers as well, designed to give before steel cause they are aluminum tools..., but that bronze is softer than aluminum...
you are welcome to use any of this stuff, and we could potentially try it together, but I would feel better if...
any of the old timers here done this ?!?
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rover67
Rising Sun Member
definitely freeze it before going for it..
ccslider
Hard Core 4+
Dry Ice works well for shrinking.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
No shade tree there, Mike! That’s exactly what I had envisioned when Calvin posted the pic of the bearing puller! I figured I’d have to span across the opening of the inner knuckle axle end somehow.
Mike...I would love it if I could get some assistance with this...as any mess up will throw away the cost of the bushing which was not cheap
I’m out of town this weekend and then I’m heading to Japan as well the end of the month. Might need to give a shot at this one evening since weekends in the summer are so special!
Lemme tear into this a bit more and do some more measuring and then we will see if a date works for a revival party? Beer on me of course
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Did you measure the old bushing clearances yet? It might also be nice to know the bushing OD and the axle ID to see how heavy of a press it will be before sending them home. also the bushing ID compared to the axle OD... just to know what you are working with
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
I have not Marco...only put the axle back in the bushing and noticed quite a bit of play vertically...less horizontally.
It would be nice to be able to measure the internal diameter of the one on the passenger side that is not leaking. How would one do this with it sitting so far back in the axle housing?
I’m also considering taking my new SOR bushing to my wife’s uncle who owns a machine shop to see if he could size the bushing to a couple thousandths greater than my axle prior to putting the bushing into the axle housing? Seems more legit than reaming w brake hone, but who knows?
rover67
Rising Sun Member
a bore gauge can get in there. Yeah i'm curious what they measure when they come in.
ccslider
Hard Core 4+
Paul not sure if interested but there are some axles on Craigslist. https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/toyota-fj40-land-cruiser-axles/6646206453.html
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
A few updates since the last post:
I finally got the axle completely torn down, and found the trunion races to be pretty trashed. My axle kit from Kurt came with all new bearings, so I'll be replacing everything there...but this also made me wonder if the knuckle really was off centered which might have cause this bushing to wear out?
I also pulled the old bushing, and compared it to the new...WHOOPS! Looks like SOR sent me the wrong brass end bushing! Not sure if it is my fault or theirs...I'm going to try to figure that out today. As I mentioned in a post above, there is a change in part number in late 1967...I somehow got the wrong one. Either my axle was changed, or SOR just sent the wrong part? Or...???
I still haven't taken the passenger side apart to compare, but I took some measurements of the old brass bushing and new. The old (worn) bushing is ovaled slightly with measurements anywhere from 0.08mm to 0.14mm greater diameter than the new bushing. It doesn't seem like a lot to me for old tech, but the old bushing definitely has more "play" when placed on the axle than the new bushing does. BTW...the new brass bushing did not require me to resize the shaft opening at all! I wonder if this is because I received the wrong one? Everything I read, even on the SOR site, said I would need to have this bushing honed to fit my axle. My axle measures EXACTLY 32mm in diameter, and has absolutely NO WEAR on the axle surface. If I measure to the thousandths on the wear surface vs just inside the wear surface, there is no wear on the axle shaft.
I also got my brake cylinders off, in preparation for new cylinders and new brake lines. There is so much crap caked on the backing plates, I'm gonna need to soak them for a bit and get them cleaned up.
Well...off to Japan for a week. I'll try to get the bushing sorted out so that when I get back I will be ready to center the knuckle (Thank you Matt), and get the brakes sorted out. I might need some help bleeding the brakes...my wife is not into that sort of thing!
I finally got the axle completely torn down, and found the trunion races to be pretty trashed. My axle kit from Kurt came with all new bearings, so I'll be replacing everything there...but this also made me wonder if the knuckle really was off centered which might have cause this bushing to wear out?
I also pulled the old bushing, and compared it to the new...WHOOPS! Looks like SOR sent me the wrong brass end bushing! Not sure if it is my fault or theirs...I'm going to try to figure that out today. As I mentioned in a post above, there is a change in part number in late 1967...I somehow got the wrong one. Either my axle was changed, or SOR just sent the wrong part? Or...???
I still haven't taken the passenger side apart to compare, but I took some measurements of the old brass bushing and new. The old (worn) bushing is ovaled slightly with measurements anywhere from 0.08mm to 0.14mm greater diameter than the new bushing. It doesn't seem like a lot to me for old tech, but the old bushing definitely has more "play" when placed on the axle than the new bushing does. BTW...the new brass bushing did not require me to resize the shaft opening at all! I wonder if this is because I received the wrong one? Everything I read, even on the SOR site, said I would need to have this bushing honed to fit my axle. My axle measures EXACTLY 32mm in diameter, and has absolutely NO WEAR on the axle surface. If I measure to the thousandths on the wear surface vs just inside the wear surface, there is no wear on the axle shaft.
I also got my brake cylinders off, in preparation for new cylinders and new brake lines. There is so much crap caked on the backing plates, I'm gonna need to soak them for a bit and get them cleaned up.
Well...off to Japan for a week. I'll try to get the bushing sorted out so that when I get back I will be ready to center the knuckle (Thank you Matt), and get the brakes sorted out. I might need some help bleeding the brakes...my wife is not into that sort of thing!
rover67
Rising Sun Member
They probably machine the new bushing to be as close as possible kinda guessing on how much it will compress when it goes pressed into the axle housing. You can never be sure that it will compress a known amount due to variations in the housing ID and the axle OD though they are probably really close to being consistent. you'll have to see if the new bushings you get from SOR feel the same and go in nice and then see if you need to ream/home it but you might get away with not needing it. At this point if it were me i'd replace them anyways no matter if you think they might still be good... but I agree that .08-0.14 doesn't seem like much. I'm glad the old one came out ok.
If the new one goes in super easy you might add some locktite bearing retaining compound to the OD before it goes in to help hold it better. If it goes in tight then no worries.
If the new one goes in super easy you might add some locktite bearing retaining compound to the OD before it goes in to help hold it better. If it goes in tight then no worries.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Thanks, Marco. The old one came out with about 4 wacks of the slide hammer, and the new one is exactly the same outer diameter as the old one. Seemed tight enough.
I'm more concerned, now that I've spoken to Spector Offroad, about having to take the outside lip off of the bushing they sent me. According to the person I spoke to, they only make one version of the bushing...well, actually two...one for the left and one for the right. So, depending on what year you have, you have to possibly modify the OD, or the ID, or both. If I had known this, I probably would have just had my wife's uncle make me one
Now, I'll see if he can take the wider neck off of this one and call it good.All the fun working with 50+ year old vehicles
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Thanks, Marco. The old one came out with about 4 wacks of the slide hammer, and the new one is exactly the same outer diameter as the old one. Seemed tight enough.
I'm more concerned, now that I've spoken to Spector Offroad, about having to take the outside lip off of the bushing they sent me. According to the person I spoke to, they only make one version of the bushing...well, actually two...one for the left and one for the right. So, depending on what year you have, you have to possibly modify the OD, or the ID, or both. If I had known this, I probably would have just had my wife's uncle make me one
All the fun working with 50+ year old vehicles
I'f all they need is that wider part turned down i could potentially do that also. that is unless your wife's uncle can do it easily for you without too much bribing. Is the rest of it the right OD? That would mean that outer part might be less critical in terms of matching it exactly and you could maybe go sliiiiiightly undersized if not even so it still presses in nice but doesn't shrink up to much when hammered in.
white wings
Hard Core 4+
Please attach a picture of you walking in pedestrian Japanese traffic.
How will you see him? If the locals are in frame, he'll be out of the top of the picture? lol "Big Tuna"
Rezarf
Hard Core 4+
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Well...the trip to Fukuoka and Tosu Japan was uneventful. Tiring, but uneventful.
I wish I could say the same about my latest efforts to get this axle/knuckle fixed!!!!
So, here's the latest. I got back from Japan and went back to my wife's uncle to take the extra neck off the SOR brass bushing. That went well.
I put it in the freezer overnight and pounded (lightly) in this evening. All went well.
That's when the "Oh Craps" started! First O'Crap: The knuckle centering tool does not fit in the brass bushing. Second O'Crap: Neither does my axle shaft!!!
So, it looks like after all this back and forth, I'm going to need a brake cylinder hone after all!!!! Anyone? I think Bruce or Marco or someone said they have one....I'll have to search above in the thread. But, what a pain after all that! It is very surprising to me because I was commenting on how "loose" the axle fit in the new bushing. I am surprised it choked down as much as it did just from pushing the fitting into the axle. It did take some hits using a soft wood piece and hammer, but it went in without any real issue.
I don't think I have to take off very much, but I definitely have to take off a bit to get the axle shaft in. I was able to put the short outer axle shaft in, and kind of use it to take measurements with the tool I got from Matt.
From my measurements, I believe the knuckle was put back on with the additional shim on the wrong side. The knuckle needs to come UP, but i found the knuckle with the extra shim on TOP, which would push the knuckle DOWN instead (if my brain is thinking about it correctly). If I shim the bottom, it should force the knuckle UP, correct?
Anyway...now looking for a brake cylinder hone or some other way to take a thousand of an inch off the inside of the brass outer bushing.
So Fun! 😊
I wish I could say the same about my latest efforts to get this axle/knuckle fixed!!!!
So, here's the latest. I got back from Japan and went back to my wife's uncle to take the extra neck off the SOR brass bushing. That went well.
I put it in the freezer overnight and pounded (lightly) in this evening. All went well.
So, it looks like after all this back and forth, I'm going to need a brake cylinder hone after all!!!! Anyone? I think Bruce or Marco or someone said they have one....I'll have to search above in the thread. But, what a pain after all that! It is very surprising to me because I was commenting on how "loose" the axle fit in the new bushing. I am surprised it choked down as much as it did just from pushing the fitting into the axle. It did take some hits using a soft wood piece and hammer, but it went in without any real issue.
I don't think I have to take off very much, but I definitely have to take off a bit to get the axle shaft in. I was able to put the short outer axle shaft in, and kind of use it to take measurements with the tool I got from Matt.
From my measurements, I believe the knuckle was put back on with the additional shim on the wrong side. The knuckle needs to come UP, but i found the knuckle with the extra shim on TOP, which would push the knuckle DOWN instead (if my brain is thinking about it correctly). If I shim the bottom, it should force the knuckle UP, correct?
Anyway...now looking for a brake cylinder hone or some other way to take a thousand of an inch off the inside of the brass outer bushing.
So Fun! 😊
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