OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)

[LARGEONE]

Good news and bad news:

Good News...I have a working Parking Brake, a working speedometer, and no TC output shaft leaks. I also have new 90w in the transmission and TC and a totally clean and lubed rear driveshaft.

Bad News...My parking brake pads must be rubbing because the parking drum was REALLY HOT after just a short 3 mile drive. And, my speedo bounces a little and is off by about 6 MPH at 50. At 50mph, my speedo says around 43 or 44. I wonder if a PO put the wrong driven gear in, or if the diffs have been changed at some point?

Do you think if I just adjust the parking brake pads out to where the brake just barely works it will allow it to not rub? And then eventually adjust it tighter? I adjusted it like I would the wheel drums where I had a slight rub on the pads but the drum still spun. I'll mess with it and get back...I would assume the drum should be warm to the touch after driving, but not scalding?

 

[SteveH]

Lots of good progress. I have never seen parking brake shoes drag (a little) and don't think they should. You sure don't want any heat around that seal area (since it's leak prone at best). You should have 6-8 'clicks' in the parking brake lever as you apply the brake fully, when properly adjusted. (I think that's the spec - could be off a click or two).

The speedometer head may have an internal issue - not all mis-reading speedometers are due a a gear issues. A good speedometer shop might be able to help, or you could swap in a spare speedo head for test purposes. BEWARE - always pull the battery neg. cable before removing the speedometer cluster, lest you fry the ammeter during disassembly.

 

[LARGEONE]

Thanks Steve.

If I back off the parking brake adjuster on the drum I get rid of the rubbing, but I also get rid of my brake! I’m going to have to play with it a bit because as you say I’m afraid of building up the heat with that seal. I really don’t feel like replacing it again so soon!

The cable doesn’t seem to be working so great, but that thing seems like a real pain to change out.

 

[Rezarf]

I agree with Steve, I don't think it should drag at all. But when you engage the brake it should lock up tight. Maybe you have some slack in the cable somewhere?

 

[LARGEONE]

I think the cable is really stretched or something? Even if I adjust the brake pads appropriately, I still have to pull the parking brake lever all the way out to engage. But I do have a working parking brake and it’s not getting super hot.

Almost time for front brake cylinder change and front axle service.

 

[SteveH]

I had my parking brake way out of adjustment years ago on my '78, and when I pulled the handle all the way out, the linkage under the dash contacted some wiring and created a short - so you might check under the dash for any wiring that might get bumped by the handle linkage. (Very hard to see under there, however...)

As for warmth, I would expect the parking brake drum to be warm, as the transfer case gets warm - but not blazing hot.

 

[Rezarf]

Paul, good progress man. Keep it up.

 

[LARGEONE]

Thanks, Drew. I definitely have a bigger issue. I drove it just a mile or so and it was blazing hot. It's gonna ruin my new seal

I've gotta take it apart again and see what's going on...and I may need to get a new cable. The brake is rubbing, and the cable is all the way released...to the point when I pull it all the way out it doesn't hold the truck at all. Maybe one of the springs is off? It's possible because the pad metal was so thick that the springs didn't seat all the way either. Not happy about the crappy pads...that's for sure.

I guess I won't know until I get back in there, but that means I'm going to have to drain the 90wt again. Not the worst thing in the world since it was pretty dirty when I did it before.

 

[kurtnkegger]

Paul, is there an adjustment for the e brake cable where it passes through the firewall? I don't know about your year, but my '77 has an adjustment collar at the firewall that adjusts the 'between' areas from clicks on the parking drum. Maybe your cable isn't stretched rather the adjuster at the firewall is out of whack.

 

[LARGEONE]

Steve...I did have a wire near the parking brake hinge and I got it out of the way early on...it was for an aftermarket gauge. No longer an issue.

Thanks, Kurt. I read about the firewall adjuster somewhere, but I didn't see one on my earlier model. I'm going to check again, because that could help.

I'm starting to think this is all continued problems with my aftermarket parking brake pads being WAY too thick. I had to grind them down, to just barely get the clips on the pins. I was not able to make enough room to get the spring washers on, so those are sitting on my bench. My theory is that maybe the linkages are binding up and not allowing the springs to pull the pads back in, due to the spring washers not allowing some "play" b/w the linkage and pads?

This, and I think my cable is stretched, but that should really only force you to have to pull it out a few more clicks to engage, correct? It shouldn't have anything to do with the parking brake pads riding on the drum?

Thanks, everyone, for your input!

 

[rover67]

did the drum just slide on or did you force it?

 

[LARGEONE]

Slid right on. Then I turned the adjuster on the backing plate until I could feel the slightest resistance, but could still turn the drum freely.

I think I'm going to trash these aftermarket pads and get OEM and never look back. While I'm at it I'll try to replace the cable. I'm tired of messing with it.

 

[simps80]

if you replace the cable, save yourself the trouble...hook up the lever end first
then with the pb assembly off, hook up the cable to that, then use that leverage to get the pb assembly mounted,
if you do it the other way (last step hooking new cable to lever) you will never be able to get the fresh cable on, nit enough play. coulda sworn I had wrong cable, but no, just impossible to get enough leverage to stretch it onto the lever

 

[LARGEONE]

if you replace the cable, save yourself the trouble...hook up the lever end first
then with the pb assembly off, hook up the cable to that, then use that leverage to get the pb assembly mounted,
if you do it the other way (last step hooking new cable to lever) you will never be able to get the fresh cable on, nit enough play. coulda sworn I had wrong cable, but no, just impossible to get enough leverage to stretch it onto the lever

Thank you, Mike, for confirming this. I kindof figured this out when I was trying (UNSUCCESSFULLY) to detach the cable from the backing plate when I was rebuilding the drum brakes. It was tough to do with the cable attached, but I was able to get the pins back in. I don't think the metal supports on the pads are ground thin enough, so this may be where I am getting binding?

I do think I should just go ahead and replace the cable...so, to replace the cable, do I undo in the reverse of what you stated. 1) undo the spring at the backing plate (not sure how to do this?), then 2) after slack, undo the pin at the top of the front PB pull?

Any hints on how to get the PB Cable loose from the backing plate and lever? The exploded parts view on SOR shows a pin or clip of some sort...I'll have to look again when I get it apart.

Unfortunately I am traveling a lot in June, so the 40 may not get much love for a bit!

 

[MountainGoat]

Man Paul it's great seeing the old truck get some of the attention she deserves. Thanks for making a painful situation as easy as possible!

I still have a boatload of parts laying around. Are you coming to the meeting Wednesday? I could load them up and bring them down for you.

 

[LARGEONE]

Thanks Dan...I thought about coming up today, but I’m going to be out of town starting on Tuesday, so I had some honey dos to take care of before leaving. I obviously won’t make the meeting either. I think the current radiator leaks, so I’ve been wanting to check out the other radiator you have. And when I say leaking, I mean it is leaking from more than just the overflow! I got tired of the overflow dripping so I put an aftermarket bottle on in a temporary location...until I put a good radiator in. Check it out:

 

[LARGEONE]

Well...I have a OEM parking brake cable on order and I’ve got the drum assembly taken apart AGAIN. But I can’t seem to get this little clip off.

I’m thinking about just cutting the cable. That should give me more room to work and take the spring pressure off. Any other advice on getting this little clip off? And, I’m hoping I ordered the right part number for this little clip!

I also ordered OEM brake pads...I’m gonna waste these other ones, even though I don’t think they are the problem at this point.

 

[simps80]

Well...I have a OEM parking brake cable on order and I’ve got the drum assembly taken apart AGAIN. But I can’t seem to get this little clip off.

I’m thinking about just cutting the cable. That should give me more room to work and take the spring pressure off. Any other advice on getting this little clip off? And, I’m hoping I ordered the right part number for this little clip!

I also ordered OEM brake pads...I’m gonna waste these other ones, even though I don’t think they are the problem at this point.

i vaguely remember it beig a split clip you could spread..no?

 

[rover67]

I wsa thinking maybe it started tight but i guess it didn't!

Don't cut the cable! save all those old parts... you never know.

 

[kurtnkegger]

I read the clip is a bear to get off. Pry it open with a screwdriver, and the metal is pretty soft, it "should" bend back for replacement...

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwGk8zcL34N4N2tFQklWMTkyY0E