OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)

[subzali]

I think 4.11 was the only option in 1967.

T case should be empty.

The speedi sleeve tool worked for me. YMMV.

 

[kurtnkegger]

Transfer doesn't need to be empty for the drum to be removed. The shaft it is on is sealed at the case. If it's leaking everywhere, you probably have a leak at that seal too. I would expect that.

You'll get some fluid loss with the speedo gear replacement, but not a lot.

 

[nuclearlemon]

i went the mudrak way and got my output machined to take dual seals, but speedi sleeve is a good bandaid fix also.

wish i knew you were needing parts. i have two or three sets of brand new e brake shoes. still have a bunch of energy suspension tie rod end boots too.

sounds like it will be a good project and will be nice when it's fixed up.

 

[LARGEONE]

i went the mudrak way and got my output machined to take dual seals, but speedi sleeve is a good bandaid fix also.

wish i knew you were needing parts. i have two or three sets of brand new e brake shoes. still have a bunch of energy suspension tie rod end boots too.

sounds like it will be a good project and will be nice when it's fixed up.

I've read about the mudrak option and it doesn't sound like it would be too difficult to accomplish if my leak returns quickly (which it sounds like it might be inevitable )

Thank you, Ige...I might be interested in the tie rod end boots if they are black? I can't tell whether my ends are even able to accept the boot clip to hold the boot on!

As an update...I've been driving the 40 nearly every day. I think it will drive better when the old gas is out of it. And, I'll feel better about taking it out once my parking brake is working...soon enough I hope!

Thanks, again, for all of the assistance so far!

 

[white wings]

Perhaps try a set or 31" or 35" inch wheels. Oh wait, I have those available for testing!

 

[nuclearlemon]

]
Thank you, Ige...I might be interested in the tie rod end boots if they are black? I can't tell whether my ends are even able to accept the boot clip to hold the boot on!

red, sorry

 

[LARGEONE]

Ok...today I spent some time cleaning up the underside of OG2 in preparation for fluid changes and work on the parking brake and speedo. I removed the drive shaft and pulled the cotter pin from the nut on the TC output shaft...but I didn’t remove the nut because I’m not sure I have the right size socket for my impact wrench? Is it possible this nut is a 29mm? My 30mm socket is really loose but “fits” and my 28mm is just barely too small to fit the nut. It’s really like the nut is a 29mm but I didn’t think that would be right.

Does anyone know the size of this nut, and have a socket that will fit it snugly? I’d hate to mess it up with the 30mm as loose as it fits.

Thanks!

 

[simps80]

90% sure i use 1 1/8"
my metri impact sockets stop at 27
so I am pretty sure its 1 1/8"

 

[LARGEONE]

That might be right. 1-1/8” is 28.6mm. Should be perfect.

Anyone on the north side have a 1-1/8” socket I could borrow for a few days?

 

[Rezarf]

That might be right. 1-1/8” is 28.6mm. Should be perfect.

Anyone on the north side have a 1-1/8” socket I could borrow for a few days?

Paul, I think I do... I get home Wednesday and you're welcome to it if I do.

 

[LARGEONE]

90% sure i use 1 1/8"

my metri impact sockets stop at 27

so I am pretty sure its 1 1/8"

BINGO...1-1/8" fit PERFECTLY!!! That seems odd, though, on an old Japanese vehicle. Anyway...the nut is off! (Thanks, Drew, for offer...my neighbor had one)

I removed the parking brake drum and found that the brake pads really aren't that bad. The adjuster had quite a bit more room to be adjusted, so it probably would have worked if I just adjusted the drums?

Then I removed the speedo cable at the driven gear. I think I may have found my speedo problem...isn't this gear supposed to be squared off at the end?

See edit below: Any idea where I can find a new Driven Gear? Everywhere I have checked says the 4:11 is a discontinued part. I can find the 3:73, which may actually be better since the truck has 31s and might get 32s at some point?

Edit...this picture of the Driven Gear makes it look like mine is the way it is supposed to be? Maybe it's not bad after all?

 

[OilHammer]

That gear looks fine to me. It rides in the "light" section of the teeth and those all still have teeth. I've seen ones completely stripped in that part if the speedo cable was kinked or jacked up in some way that there was too much resistance.

 

[LARGEONE]

It spins freely, and it looks OK. So, I'm going to change out the Speedo gauge in the cluster (I have an extra) and hook it up.

I also have a Speedi-Sleeve ready for the drum once I clean it up a bit. This should get me back in business!!!

 

[ccslider]

Progress is looking good. Feel free to text me if you need any tools.

 

[subzali]

Look great Paul!

A couple thoughts:
-You may have a data plate mounted somewhere that may have an axle code (K41 or something, I don't remember exactly). If it has that you can tell what it left the factory with.
-Your pinion nut is probably a 29mm, which changed to I think 30mm in the early 70s. That's why it's an odd size.

 

[LARGEONE]

Wow...didn't realize what a pain in the rear the drum shoes were going to be. I have had really good luck with Japanese aftermarket stuff from Cruiser Outfitters, but these shoes are HORRIFIC. The metal part is WAY wider than the OEM Toyota which causes all kinds of issues with the pins, spring washers, and adjuster. I had to take an angle grinder to them just to get them installed, and I WASTED TONS OF TIME. I'll probably PM Kurt and let him know that these are worthless...after what I went through, I actually wouldn't take a pair for free.

I also had to grind around the pin holes to allow the clips to go on...what a pain! I did eventually get the shoes installed.

I also sleeved the drum shaft with the Speedi-Sleeve...boy that was easy 😊

It looks a little funny bc it is icing up from the drum being in the freezer. Helped the sleeve go on really easy. Then I just pried the install lip off as designed.

I need to order up another one of these. Toyota still stocks them for about $4!

Now I just need to clean 50+ years of grease off a few more areas and I'll hopefully be rollin' again this weekend. I still have the gauge cluster apart, so I gotta get that back together with some new bulbs. Keeping my fingers crossed that I have a working Speedometer when I put it all back together!!! 😊

 

[LARGEONE]

Look great Paul!

A couple thoughts:
-You may have a data plate mounted somewhere that may have an axle code (K41 or something, I don't remember exactly). If it has that you can tell what it left the factory with.
-Your pinion nut is probably a 29mm, which changed to I think 30mm in the early 70s. That's why it's an odd size.

I did find the plate in the engine bay near the battery that says that it is a January 1967 build and I can read the VIN#. I can’t read much else. I may need to run some shoe polish across it to see if I can read anything else on the plate.

Pinion nut was indeed 29mm or 1-1/8”.

Thanks for all the help everyone...making some progress.

 

[LARGEONE]

Here are the parts I scavenged to hopefully get a working speedo. I had to cut one of the bulb sockets off the donor harness because mine was missing one. Eventually, I may try to get the oil pressure and temp back working on the original cluster? Right now they are running to aftermarket gauges above the footwell. More to worry about before I deal with that!

I have it back together and ready to try it out tomorrow. Nice that my Cruiser will be ready for eBay sale tomorrow with “63k actual miles””!!! And no leaks. Haha!

I actually found the speedo needle of the one I took out...it was broken off and inside the cluster. However, the spring mechanism is broken and the speedo doesn’t function correctly. It might be able to be taken apart and fixed, or at least used for parts?

 

[Rezarf]

Paul, it looks good man.

While you have the gauge cluster out, you might consider an LED upgrade. I yanked my bulb shields off and installed some LED's from www.superbrightleds.com and the difference is I can read my gauge at night. I would also suggest creating a pigtail/braided ground wire from the gauge cluster to the body. It helped me get better signals on all my gauges and improved a "flickering" LED light.

I also repainted my gauge cluster face and I have some new "hunter orange" model paint to touch up the needles and make them really look new again. You're welcome to it. It is only a little more time while it is out.

 

[LARGEONE]

Paul, it looks good man.

While you have the gauge cluster out, you might consider an LED upgrade. I yanked my bulb shields off and installed some LED's from www.superbrightleds.com and the difference is I can read my gauge at night. I would also suggest creating a pigtail/braided ground wire from the gauge cluster to the body. It helped me get better signals on all my gauges and improved a "flickering" LED light.

I also repainted my gauge cluster face and I have some new "hunter orange" model paint to touch up the needles and make them really look new again. You're welcome to it. It is only a little more time while it is out.

Thanks, Drew. Would I just connect the ground to any of the shared grounds on the rear of the cluster? They seem to all be connected to a common ground.

I did paint the needle on my speedo, but it didn't turn out as bright as I would have liked. It is much brighter than when it started though.

I do plan to update some of these things you mention, but for now I'm still in the "get it working, and not leaking" phase I'll probably worry about the cluster more when I tear back into it to get the other gauges working.