OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)

[LARGEONE]

Thanks guys! Kurt...thanks for the link. Very helpful!

I tried with a screwdriver but was unable to tweak the clip. It sits pretty flush so not sure if I’ll be able to get plyers on it. This FSM should help.

 

[rover67]

maybe grind a punch into a deep vee and drive it into the split? if its spring steel that might not work..

 

[LARGEONE]

maybe grind a punch into a deep vee and drive it into the split? if its spring steel that might not work..

It’s pretty soft stuff, so good idea Marco. At least enough to push it out enough to get needle nose pliers on it. Give it a shot this weekend. Parts should be at the house by then.

 

[LARGEONE]

OK...third time was the charm!! The new PB Cable did the trick. I also ordered new PB brake pads, but I’m going to try to return them as the OEM ones were exactly as thick as the ones I got from Kurt. So, I take back what I said about Kurt’s...his were identical to the OEM and looked like they were made in the same factory! This is an issue, since the only way to use these pads without grinding them down, is to get a new wider adjuster (if available) and different pins and hardware for all of the levers.

Anyway...I think I have it all taken care of. Look how much the cable was stretched...seems like about 1/2”, probably closer to 3/4”! The other big difference bw the old and new cable is the strength of the spring. The new one is much stronger and does a much better job of releasing the brake back off the drum. The other cable had definitely reached the end of its useful life!

Since I had to drain the TC to rip the PB assemble apart again, I went ahead and installed the TC bypass hose discussed on IH8MUD. I was having a lot of my TC oil getting transferred into the tranny.

As you can see, I also made a high tech mod with a coat hanger and zip ties to keep my speedo and Pb cable from riding on the exhaust pipe.

Now to go drive it for a few days before I get the energy to start tearing apart the front axle. I’m going to rebuild the front axle at the same time I fix the front driver side brake cylinders.


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[LARGEONE]

I read the clip is a bear to get off. Pry it open with a screwdriver, and the metal is pretty soft, it "should" bend back for replacement...

BTW...You guys were right about this clip. It was very soft and I was able to just use two really small screwdrivers opposed to each other to pry it off. I had to reuse it since the one I ordered was not the right size when I finally got it.


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[Rezarf]

Nice job sorting out the Parking Brake Paul. Check another box on the list. Way to go.

 

[LARGEONE]

Ok...so a bit more of an update. I’ve been driving OG2 (“Old Bastard” in the thread link below) around and really enjoying. However, the brakes really suck, and there is 90wt still coming out of the left front axle seal. I guess the problem described in this thread from 2011 is back with a vengeance.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=15851&highlight=Ball+claw

I’ve got the front knuckle apart and it seems like there is a bit too much space bw the axle shaft and the brass end fitting, allowing 90wt to leak by. When I opened up the knuckle, I discovered the bearings being lubed pretty much by 90wt oil only!

So, since this continues to be a problem for this truck, I’m looking for opinions as Dan was back in 2011. I think my options are:
1) Pull the brass fitting out and replace with new one from SOR.
2) Put it back together and start looking immediately for a later model axle. Maybe Disc.
3) take the axle shaft and have some material metal added, then machined to be a tighter fit to existing brass bushing.

None of these are very appealing to me due to the amount of work required. The first option requires reaming the brass bushing until it becomes a tight fit. Seems like a real pain to get it right. #3 I’m not even sure is possible, and again would require getting it perfect to fix the problem. And #2 is likely the best option, but would require changing diff flanges, the entire axle swap, and also lots of brake upgrade issues due to 9mm vs 10mm fittings! I am fine with the old ball and claw, but I worry if it leaks constantly, I’ll never have good brakes with the 90wt getting thrown around in there!

As the original title of this thread states....HELP PLEASE!!!

 

[SteveH]

If you want to play with adding material to the axle, or sleeving it, here are parts you could play with: https://rockies.craigslist.org/pts/d/fj40-land-cruiser-parts/6634286767.html

I would think if you bought new brass bushings, you could leave them quite tight - since they will see axle lube and the goal of the bushing is to keep the axle squarely lined up in the bore. The don't need to allow grease or oil to pass back and forth. But, the bushing must be loose enough to allow itself to see adequate lube.

I seriously believe you will only find long-term happiness in swapping to disk axles. There was a pair on CL for $800 recently, but I cannot find them now. Yes - all the brake stuff will be a pain, and you'll likely have to repack the new axle first and buy new brake parts.

Steve

 

[MountainGoat]

I am obviously not much help here. Back in the day when I was trying to figure out what to do, I never came to a clear decision on this. That said, I was leaning toward getting the new bushing and Mark's rebuild kit so I could pick his brain on a proper full rebuild. It failed in 2011 at 44 years old. That's a pretty long run. Seems like if you can get it right you should be good for the long term. Easy for me to say now! Man it's good to see that truck getting the attention it has always deserved. It eases the pain of no longer owning it.

 

[Rezarf]

Pop in some Dana 35's they are pretty cheap right

Paul, with your goals in mind, I'd try to keep it OG... more work now, but in cooler in the end? My second option would be to find the donor axles from a disk brake 40 and swap it over. However, I am with Steve that unknown axles are just that... likely needing attention before relying on them.

 

[LARGEONE]

Thanks guys! Appreciate the input! Tough decision. I’ll see what I can figure out?

 

[rover67]

i'd be tempted to put new bushings in from Mark if he has them and can help. Reaming them might be able to be done with something as simple as a brake hone, though I know that's not the "right" way to do it. they might be close when installed depending. I wonder if Mark could offer some insight on the proper installation if his parts.

A doner axle would likely require a full rebuild not to mention the rest of the stuff you already noted.

I wouldn't try welding the axle and machining.. that to me sounds like you'd end up with something more likely to break due to the annealing that might happen during welding, but I also have no idea on whether or not the shafts are heat treated.

what ID are the bushings now? what OD is the shaft? how do the two sides compare? I wonder because you say one side does not leak. What is the spec for the clearance?

I'd basically be a proponent of keeping the original stuff and fixing it if possible.

 

[nakman]

Yeah that is a good point ^ if the other side does't leak, then rip it apart and measure stuff, compare to see what is different. Not that throwing new parts at it isn't fun and all, but it may help you aim a little better.

 

[LARGEONE]

Good call ^

I was gonna work on one side at a time, but the “good” side might give me more answers. I’ll tear into it this week if my job will give me a break!

I’m sure I’d need to borrow some tools if I end up trying to change the brass bushing? That doesn’t seem like it would be too easy to get out of there.

I’ve never seen the actual specs for the ID of the bushing or OD of the shaft? So, I would have to guess on the snugness of the fit?

 

[rover67]

you could probably cut and "peel" the old ones out and drive in new ones, since they go in from the outside. Still, I wouldn't so any of that untill I measured both sides and found out what the clearance was supposed to be... just to understand where I was starting from and what i was shooting for. Doing that kind of stuff sucks when at the end of the day you end up with the same clearance with new bushings. My buddy Drew has a bore gauge that may go down that small, and measuring the axle might be OK with calipers.

 

[wesintl]

1. Call algazy and see if he has brass bushings and or what he would do.
2. sor http://www.sor.com/cat080.sor#080B1
3. rtv

 

[subzali]

Personally I would try to keep this truck stock. Easy for me to say since it isn't my project. If you do upgrade the axle keep the old one just in case.

Maybe there is a way to pull the bushing out and replace with a rubber inner axle seal? Nah, that sounds too easy and there would be write-ups about it.

 

[LARGEONE]

Personally I would try to keep this truck stock. Easy for me to say since it isn't my project. If you do upgrade the axle keep the old one just in case.

Maybe there is a way to pull the bushing out and replace with a rubber inner axle seal? Nah, that sounds too easy and there would be write-ups about it.

It has been done, Matt...but it requires a lot of other changes. Some have done it and changed to fine spine axles...seems like if you're gonna do this you should just swap out the axle to a later one.

I'm gonna try to keep the current setup if I can...just need to find some time to work on it

 

[kurtnkegger]

Ball and claw axles on Craigs

https://rockies.craigslist.org/pts/d/fj40-land-cruiser-parts/6634286767.html

 

[LARGEONE]

Ball and claw axles on Craigs

https://rockies.craigslist.org/pts/d/fj40-land-cruiser-parts/6634286767.html

Interesting...I may see what he did with his axle housing...that's the part I actually would need. But these axles could certainly give me something to play with If I wanted to go the route of adding some material to the axle. Hmmm.

thanks for posting!