OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)

[LARGEONE]

I decided to name my new (to me) 1967 FJ40 – “Old Gal” which basically makes her “OG2”. The original OG1 is my 1995 FZJ80 (The “Original Grayster”).

I’m starting this thread to document some of the upgrades I make to her, as well as to solicit advice on some of the upgrades. If there is a specific technical question that needs its own thread, I’ll either start a tech thread or tag onto one that is already on topic.

Thanks in advance for participating ��!!!

I’ll start by saying that I know VERY LITTLE about how to adjust a carburetor as well as doing any body work….so I can see this refurb’ presenting some real challenges due to my (lack of) knowledge! I am only attempting to refurb’ this vehicle because I know that Rising Sun is awesome and that there will be someone in the club to help with my ignorance.

A bit about the Ol’ Gal…she is a 1967 FJ40 with a later model 1F power plant. I purchased her from Mountain Goat in Dec 2017.

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=26118&highlight=1967+fj40


(Dan will have first right to buy her back if I ever decide to sell her). From what I can tell, she is mostly original, which is both good and bad!


The Good

-She seems to run fairly well down the road, even though she could use some attention.

-Starts up every time.

-Body is mostly straight with rust in the typical spots, but not a complete rust bucket.



The Not-So-Good

-She leaks from nearly every seal possible ��. The front left axle seal is leaking and the brake cylinders on that same wheel leak badly as well. REPAIRED AXLE LEAK

-The front and rear TC output shafts leak and the rear has caused the E-Parking brake to go bad. REPAIRED

-The engine leaks some oil…haven’t cleaned her up enough to know from where the oil is coming. VALVE COVER LEAK FIXED

-Suspension bushings are TOAST! Springs are riding on the shackle pins…metal on metal. REPAIRED

-Steering rod ends are missing the grease boots, but seem to be tight.

-Only two of the gauges in the cluster work, and the non-functioning includes the speedometer…bummer! The high beam light is also currently not working. ALL GAUGES REPAIRED AND WORKING

-Horn does not work. It has the old school horns which are pretty cool. HORNS FIXED

-Passenger windshield wiper is INOP and missing the wiper arm. The driver side could use some attention as well…it seems to be slipping on the shaft? WINDHIELD WIPERS AND MOTORS FIXED

-The defrost pull is missing (I think) and the defrost hoses might be missing as well? HEATER REBUILT AND DEFROST FIXED. NEW HOSES

-I can’t tell if the cowl vent is working or not? COWL VENT FREED AND FUNCTIONING AS IT SHOULD

-The cable pulls have been moved around and some are not quite functional. ALL CABLES REPAIRED INCLUDING THROTTLE

-Needs some electrical clean-up. ELECTRICAL ALL FIXED.

 

[LARGEONE]

First thing I tackled was the suspension. I bought a set of rubber spring bushings from Cruiser Outfitters and changed them out this past week. Check out the old ones!!!

 

[LARGEONE]

While I was changing out the suspension bushings, I decided to take a look inside the drums to see if I could get an idea of the source of the driver front wheel leak, and to maybe see why I have to STAND on the brake to get it to stop. When I pulled the driver front drum, this is what I found:

I removed the brake shoes and cleaned everything up as best as possible so I could try to see how much of the slop is caused by the brake wheel cylinders vs the inner axle brass bushing. It is my opinion that much of the leak is coming from the wheel cylinders. The axle seal is contributing, but with a part time front end, you would think this would be limited.

The right front drum looked MUCH BETTER, but the cylinders needed to be adjusted badly. I also found one of the shoes was on backward, so I removed and replaced it in the correct position. The cylinders were also not even close to being the same “throw”. So, I adjusted them pretty drastically from the front and used a caliber to measure and make sure they were the same distance. Then I put the drums back on, adjusted until I could not move the drums, pressed the brake hard a few times, and finally backed them off until I could just barely turn the drums. I did the rear drums the same way while I was changing the suspension bushings.

The brakes work better, but still not impressive. I will wait until I fix the leaky wheel cylinders and get a good bleed before I know whether the after market GM master cylinder is playing a part in the poor performance. I have a full front rebuild kit and new Japanese brake wheel cylinders on the way from Cruiser Outfitters, so that should keep me busy for a while!

 

[LARGEONE]

E/Parking Brake Refurb

Next on the refurb list is to attempt to get a functional E/Parking brake. I have already purchased a rear output seal and new e-brake shoes. Since my speedometer is not working, I may purchase a new Driven Gear and replace that while I’m down there. I assume my axles are 3.73, which would push me toward the 16 tooth version? Is there a way to know for sure what my gear ratio is (3.73 or 4.11) without taking off the diff plate?

I’ll have to wait until I get the parking brake drum off the vehicle to know the condition of the parking drum sleeve? From what I have read, I might need a speedi sleeve if it is grooved badly.

As stated in the first post….I welcome all comments of “Make sure you do this and don’t do that”! It would be nice to know these things before I start screwing around with stuff…as a total amateur!!! TIA

 

[LARGEONE]

While I was in the garage, I messed around with a few other items. The cowl vent was filled with pine needles and other debris, so I cleaned it out. The rubber around the vent is totally messed, but I got most of the crap out of the vent to prevent any further corrosion.

Notice the original color appears to be the "Lilly White" of that era. The inside of the truck is still this color as well.

I also noticed that much of the “patina” on the vehicle was actually just dirt, so I just cleaned it a little and there is actually some paint under the dirt. Not sure which look I like better, but it’s too late at least for the driver side ��.

One of these kids is not like the others!....Anyone have an idea where this crazy looking latch comes from?

 

[Inukshuk]

Excellent!

 

[subzali]

With a 67 you should almost surely have 4.11s. And just order the speed I sleeve to start with, chances are high that a worn shaft is causing the leak. Glad to see the love! I think cowl center rubber is still available OEM

 

[simps80]

https://www.cityracerllc.com/produc...e-hoses-set-for-toyota-land-cruiser-fj40-fj45

https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/cowl-vent-damper-gasket-for-toyota-land-cruiser-fj40

not available from toyota, but I ordered them for the spring green project from cityracer
he has an "unobtanium" thread in the 40 section on mud where he started his business.
he makes top notch parts, and quite a few of them now

might as well get the drain tubes for that cowl vent cause they are always bad

spray the linkage under the dash and in the cowl vent hole a lot with rust penetrant, then work it loose not with the knob, but with the linkages coming up through the cowl and under the dash. might have toet aggressive with it, take the plate off, two tiny nuts, then get a board and tap them down to close then pull up with some leverage etc back and forth

kurt has all the wheel cylinders, just buy them all
we refurbed the oem ones (also in that spring green thread)
but its a pain in the ass

also the speedo cable if its a two parter, which i think it is can be replaced with a 1 piece napa one, also in that thread

the twp piecers go through this junction down underneath, and the stubby cable breaks a lot

i would bite this off 1 bit at at a time and keep it running/driving

helps keep the motivation up when in it for the long haul if you can stop and drive it around.

the wipers slip on the splines if that nut is even a little loose. if the splines are toast classic cruisers might be the way to go for wiper parts, mine did the same, but taking it all apart, cleaning real good and going back together with it fixed it.
the oem blades that use the turn knob screws are still available oem

 

[Crash]

Sage advice from one, Simps, who knows. Keep us up to speed with your goings on, Paul.

 

[White Stripe]

I would probably pull the motor, Trans, and tcase as a unit out of the cruiser, and replace all the seals and gaskets at once and go through the tcase. It's a lot easier and quicker at least in my opinion to replace it all when it's out of the truck, and just about everything is probably leaking anyhow or will once u start driving it. Should only take a couple hours to pull-couple motor mounts, dshafts, and some hoses. In addition u can clean up the firewall and frame in the engine compartment while it's out.

 

[ccslider]

Looking good Paul. I love the color and hood.

 

[LARGEONE]

Wow! Some great advice guys! I really appreciate the responses and will definitely be contacting people for more details if you don’t mind. There is some serious 40 knowledge in this club...it is awesome!!!

I guess I should mention that I do indeed plan to keep this as a driver, and not a show queen or serious wheeler. I bet I will drive it to Costco and the grocery store more than anywhere else.

Simpson...I will have to read back over your thread. Even though I can’t imagine doing all the work you have done, I bet there are pieces that can save me a ton of headaches. Thanks!

 

[LARGEONE]

With a 67 you should almost surely have 4.11s. And just order the speed I sleeve to start with, chances are high that a worn shaft is causing the leak. Glad to see the love! I think cowl center rubber is still available OEM

Thanks, Matt! I was wondering whether I should just order the speedisleeve and have it ready so I don’t have to try to find it after my truck is already inoperable. Good advice.

 

[Rezarf]

Looks great Paul, you might consider a rubbing compound for the paint, it is a mildly abrasive paint polish... cut it with a little rubbing compound and it'll clean up the paint/oxidation/dirt/stains and grime in short order, then use a good quality wax to bring up a bit of a shine, it won't be show perfect but it will be uniform and clean.

My wife bought me a polisher for Christmas that would make short work of it if you'd like to come take it for a spin. It's got enough power to make the work fly by but not so much that you'll burn the paint.

This is so rad, I'll have my turn soon... after you guys figure all the hard stuff out.

 

[rover67]

Way to go Paul!

I also echo Mike's comment about keeping it running so you can enjoy it. it will help with the burnout factor if you don't get it inoperable and have a point where you decide to stop all together.

 

[nakman]

Great work, Paul! Put a white board up in the garage just to keep a list of projects/part needs.. write them down as they come up but then be methodical about which ones to tackle, the Pareto will become pretty obvious.. first stopping, then going, then looking good. I'll try to get up there to turn a few this summer, fun stuff!

 

[subzali]

to check the gearing you can jack one rear tire up. Mark the tire and the driveshaft. Make one revolution of the tire. Count how many rotations the driveshaft has. If it's slightly over 4 then you have 4.11 if you have slightly under 4 then it's 3.70.

 

[Uncle Ben]

to check the gearing you can jack one rear tire up. Mark the tire and the driveshaft. Make one revolution of the tire. Count how many rotations the driveshaft has. If it's slightly over 4 then you have 4.11 if you have slightly under 4 then it's 3.70.

That method will also tell you the ratio of the spider gears. If you block one tire from spinning you will double the speed of the free wheel.

 

[subzali]

That method will also tell you the ratio of the spider gears. If you block one tire from spinning you will double the speed of the free wheel.

Oh ok my bad. So jack up both rear wheels when you do this Paul to find the diff ratio.

 

[LARGEONE]

Oh ok my bad. So jack up both rear wheels when you do this Paul to find the diff ratio.

Ok...I think I’ve got it . Easier than opening the diff so I’ll give it a shot next time it’s on the lift. Were most of the 40s in 1967 of the 4.10 variety?

Another question...might be a stupid one: does the TC have to be empty to remove the drum for the E brake?

Last....Is the press tool that comes with the speedi sleeve deep enough to seat the sleeve the appropriate depth on the shaft? Or, do I need to get creative or borrow a tool?

TIA