OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)

[LARGEONE]

Marco...you were so spot on. It would have been easier while turning the OD on the lathe, to just take off slightly more so that it would press in easier. Then I wouldn’t have had to mess with the ID at all.

Oh well...lesson learned...listen to Marco!

 

[nakman]

Yes you are correct on the shims... you only need to remove a thousandth of brass? Man I'd be trying scotchbrite or something, but I'm impatient. Hone is better.

 

[rover67]

I have a hone with new stones in the package but it might honestly be easier to buy one off of amazon.

You did the right thing on machining it, the last thing you want is it spinning in the housing, so a decent press is priority over the inside doing whatever.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-10000-...TF8&qid=1533650890&sr=8-4&keywords=brake+hone

the bad part about hones over something like say a reamer is they will make the inside surface kind of rounded since the stones can pop out a bit when moving it back and forth. You want to do it fast with a cordless drill going full bore or something. And back and forth like you are.... well.... you know... yankin yer pud.. not PC but it's the way another mechanic described it to me. Anyhow, that makes it hard to not come out of the hole too much with the stones or go in too deep so they pop out the other side. New stones and careful yankin' make this problem a bit less of an issue... as does removing a minimal amount of material.

I drew a quick picture on a model I threw together to show what happens:

 

[LARGEONE]

Thanks for the graphic, Marco...both of them

Man...this seems a bit tough to get right. I'm especially worried about how soft the brass is and taking too much off. It seems like this hone needs to spin kinda fast to do it right, but man that could take off material fast I bet...since it it made to finish steel, not brass. I guess 240 grit I could spin it real quick and just check really often the fit.

Wish there was a better way...like a 32.10mm drill bit

 

[rover67]

try it with the hone, you can always buy more bushings... It'll probably turn out fine.

 

[LARGEONE]

Made A LOT of progress today. As many of you know, I only get an hour or so in the garage every few days. Well, today I spent a lot of my day out there trying to get the driver side of the 40 front axle back into shape.

I started the day honing the brass bushing using my mail-ordered brake hone.

The hone stones were just longer than the brass bushing was deep, so I didn't have to push it in and out as Marco described. I must have honed it 20 times, checking with the axle every time, until i finally got it to where my axle would spin freely with no wobble/slop. It turns very nicely in the bushing now. The only issue I had was the hone got caked up with the soft brass, even cooling with alcohol spray while honing. Not bad though...YAY!!! That was way more work than I imagined ��

Next, I replaced the wheel cylinders and put a new brake line on.

Then, I replaced the races on the hub for my new wheel bearings.

Then I put new trunion bearings on and tried to get the load right on the trunion bearings with new shims. Not sure I got it perfect, but there is no slop and the knuckle turns fairly easily by hand and easily with the steering wheel as well. With the tie rod attached, it is difficult to do this correctly. With the knuckle together, I stuffed the knuckle with palladium Moly Grease, and then put the spindle back and put all new wiper parts on the rear.

I needed to spend some time with my family so I grabbed an Avery Maharaja from the beer fridge and we all went to the pool. Felt good about the day's work...now just need to pack the wheel bearings with grease and bleed and adjust the brakes (after replacing the passenger side brake soft hose). Still a bit of work, but I feel much better now that the bushing ordeal is over!!!

 

[LARGEONE]

By the way...does anyone know where I can get the Knucke steering limiter bolts? They are missing from both sides. I also need the little rubber plugs that cover the two extra holes where you adjust the brake wheel cylinders. TIA.

Also...looking at the trunion races in post#93, would you say the trunion preload was too tight? Is that what caused the races to wear like that? If so, I may find myself in the same boat in a while? Like I said...it doesn’t feel tight, but I put back the same total thickness of shims that came out, only switching the thicker shims to the bottom to bring the knucke up slightly. What happens if the load on the bearings is slightly tight? Failure? Or just wear on the cups like the ones I replaced?

 

[SteveH]

Great progress - thanks for the update and pictures. I think if I had gone to the pool after that sort of day, the pool would have developed an oil slick on top!

 

[MountainGoat]

Excellent work man.

"Mahārāja is a Sanskrit title for a "great ruler", "great king" or "high king". A few ruled mighty states informally called empires."

You are a braver man than I, Paul Larger, high king of the ball and claw empire.

 

[nuclearlemon]

i don't think your trunnions were too tight, they were just never replaced. i had the same thing in my 45. vehicles spend most of their time going straight and the grooves just got worn over the decades.

 

[LARGEONE]

Excellent work man.

"Mahārāja is a Sanskrit title for a "great ruler", "great king" or "high king". A few ruled mighty states informally called empires."

You are a braver man than I, Paul Larger, high king of the ball and claw empire.

Thanks, Dan! Can't wait to get her driving again. Do you want to meet me and drive her for the 40s only run?

i don't think your trunnions were too tight, they were just never replaced. i had the same thing in my 45. vehicles spend most of their time going straight and the grooves just got worn over the decades.

Thanks, Ige...this makes me feel a little better about my trunion pre-load worries.

 

[subzali]

Paul, I'm sure the guys at Classic Cruiser could pull the steering stop bolts and plugs for you. Not sure about new. I may be in Salida this weekend and if I have a chance to stop by and see those guys I will pull some for you.

 

[LARGEONE]

Paul, I'm sure the guys at Classic Cruiser could pull the steering stop bolts and plugs for you. Not sure about new. I may be in Salida this weekend and if I have a chance to stop by and see those guys I will pull some for you.

Thanks Matt!!! Not sure what happened to the passenger side as it was missing already. The driver side was broken off so I removed the rest of it while I was cleaning the knuckle up.

I should be able to get your centering tool back to you now as well.

Edit: well check this out...might be available online?
https://www.yotamasters.com/shop/steering/genuine-toyota-steering-stop-bolts/

 

[simps80]

Nice work Paul!
looks like we all now have a knowlegable early front end resource to leverage!!

 

[LARGEONE]

Nice work Paul!
looks like we all now have a knowlegable early front end resource to leverage!!

I’d wait a few miles to see if mine blows up before declaring me knowledgeable at all

It’s good to have it close to out of the garage again!

 

[nakman]

Way to stay with it, Paul.. and still 4 weeks left before the official 40's run! what's next?

 

[LARGEONE]

Well...not sure I’m gonna get much done since I still can’t get the brakes to stop much better than before. I’m gonna try to bleed them mo betta, but that’s what I’m gonna focus on until I get it to stop!

Here’s a good shot of it all back together!

 

[OilHammer]

Nice! Did you know that mangled looking stuff under the locking hub bolts are the tabs that keep the bolts from backing out? Just like a star nut. Not sure mine still has those....but I have identical Warn hubs on my 66.

 

[subzali]

See the Goat thread in the 45 section of mud. Grogan got some help with his drum brakes somewhere in that thread.

 

[LARGEONE]

Nice! Did you know that mangled looking stuff under the locking hub bolts are the tabs that keep the bolts from backing out? Just like a star nut. Not sure mine still has those....but I have identical Warn hubs on my 66.

I took them all off, opened the hubs and cleaned/regreased the insides. They operate very smoothly.

Thanks Matt...I’ll try to find the thread. I think I still have lots of air in the lines by the way it is acting. If it was just the cylinder adjustment I should get a firm pedal after subsequent pumps, right?