OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)

[SteveH]

I just went through a lot of agony with the rear drums on my '78 FJ40, after replacing the shoes. I was convinced I had air in the lines and/or the new MC was bad, as the pedal would go far down to the floor before any braking action. I then repeatedly adjusted the rear drums and let the new brake shoes 'bed in' a bit, and now all is well. I was surprised at how tightly the drums and shoes had to fit before I got any sort of normal pedal action. The result is that I can now feel the rear brakes working and overall braking is a lot better. Having OEM front disks didn't 'save' me from any of the pain you're feeling. I bled about a quart through the system, and eventually concluded that it wasn't an air-related issue.

So, my .02 is to keep carefully adjusting each set of shoes until they are grazing the inner drum surface, and this will eventually get you a firm pedal (assuming no air). Then drive it, and keep readjusting as the shoes bed in, and you will get to the happy spot.

 

[LARGEONE]

Working Brakes...woohoo!!!

Dragged the into the garage yesterday to help me re-bleed the brakes. I started with the driver rear and moved around to the driver front (furthest to closest)....did all 8 cylinders. I also adjusted the cylinders tight before bleeding...AND....

I finally have working brakes!!! I think it will stop even better once the fronts get bedded in, as I don't think they are touching on all parts of the pad yet.

Must have had a lot of air in the lines because now I don't have to push near as hard and with the adjustment of the cylinders I don't have to pump them at all either. Sweet!

On to the next thing...Oil change and radiator leak fix.

Dan...that reminds me that I still need to get up to your house to pick up the rest of the parts (and the extra radiator )

 

[ccslider]

Good news!

As for bleeding the passenger rear is the furthest, then drivers rear, pass front and finally drivers front. On the 80 you have to add in the lpsv to the bleeding equation.

 

[MountainGoat]

Dan...that reminds me that I still need to get up to your house to pick up the rest of the parts (and the extra radiator )

Great news on the brakes! Let me know when you want to come up and get the parts pile.

 

[Rezarf]

Way to go Paul!

 

[LARGEONE]

Good news!

As for bleeding the passenger rear is the furthest, then drivers rear, pass front and finally drivers front. On the 80 you have to add in the lpsv to the bleeding equation.

On the '67, the brake line runs down the right side to the rear and then back over to the driver side. The soft line to the rear is just inside the passenger rear tire. So, the Driver rear is furthest from the MC.

 

[ccslider]

On the '67, the brake line runs down the right side to the rear and then back over to the driver side. The soft line to the rear is just inside the passenger rear tire. So, the Driver rear is furthest from the MC.

Interesting, that shows what I know about a 40. Thanks for stopping by and giving me a ride. I'm really liking that thing.

 

[SteveH]

Congrats. It's very satisfying to finally get a good pedal feel after hours of the pedal going to the floor.

 

[LARGEONE]

Congrats. It's very satisfying to finally get a good pedal feel after hours of the pedal going to the floor.

Thanks Steve! I’m really just glad that I feel I can stop in the neighborhood should a dog or heaven forbid a kid run out into the street in front of me.

Now, I just need to get someone on the north end to help me get it running a little better! When I accelerate, slow or fast, the truck sounds/feels like its choking and then eventually it takes off more smoothly. Not sure if it’s choking on gas, or on the blowby oil mist that gets sucked into the air filter housing? It seems to choke less when it gets really warmed up, but it’s pretty bad until the engine is totally warm. I know absolutely nothing about carbs so, any schooling on what to try I’m open to it! Calvin mentioned I could try running the hose from the valve cover to a catch for the oil and then back to the air intake? This could rule out the blowby. I’ve already changed the PCV valve in hopes of helping, but it certainly didn’t help. I don’t think the fuel filter is clogged because it does fine on the highway at 55 with no starving.

If I get it running a little better, it might make it to the 40s only Run!

 

[kurtnkegger]

Paul, does your distributor have the vacuum advance? I looked through your pictures, but didn't see a picture that included your distributor...

 

[subzali]

Your accelerator pump could either be shot or the check ball frozen. Look down the top of the carb while operating the accelerator lever, and you should see a strong stream of gas going into the venturi.

 

[Rezarf]

Start with the easy stuff in terms of fuel delivery.

Swap the fuel filter out

Check the sight glass on the carb for half full.

Run some carb cleaner through the carb (spray can, and a fuel additive).

Make sure you linkages are all working smoothly, and the choke cable too.

Check your vacuum lines that attach to the carb for cracks or dry rot.

Make sure your timing is correct and your points are in good shape too.

 

[rckhound]

If you accelerate rapidly-foot to the floor and it chokes it sounds like too much fuel and not enough air or you have some crud in the carb thats blocking the jet under heavy load. One trick you can try is try stalling the vehical with your hand over the carb. Sometimes that will suck the crap through and clear the jet.

 

[ccslider]

Your accelerator pump could either be shot or the check ball frozen. Look down the top of the carb while operating the accelerator lever, and you should see a strong stream of gas going into the venturi.

This is what I was saying the other day.

When you stomp on it the accelerator pump sprays a shot a fuel in. The old Holley carbs had different sizes, the "big 50cc" was always the joke.

I'll be home tomorrow night. I can come by this weekend and we can check a few things like; vacuum leaks, timing, and the accelerator pump.

 

[LARGEONE]

Ok...so it has been a while for updates. Work has been killing me. I had been having to charge my battery and use a jump starter just to get the 40 started. Seemed the battery wasn’t holding charge and wasn’t charging. So, I bought a new battery. But, when I took the battery out, the tray was so messed up, that I decided to make the project a little bigger. I took the tray out and soaked it in vinegar for a few days and then cleaned it up. I forgot to take a picture of the tray before...here is after pic.

 

[LARGEONE]

While I was there, I replaced all of the battery cables and ground wires. I also chased the threads in the frame and cleaned the ground contact points really well before bolting the cables.

Wow! What a difference this seemed to make. The sputtering I was getting when accelerating almost completely went away. Is it possible the electrical was so weak that the plugs were not firing a full spark and half the gas was not burning? It sure seems that way. I mean the way it is running is night and day from before the battery and terminal upgrades. It is back to driveable. Now I need to chase down a few more oil leaks so I can park it without leaving big puddles.

 

[LARGEONE]

Today I decided to take a look at my “aftermarket” driver seat. The seat sits up high and I’m have a hard time getting my foot on the brake with the steering wheel in the way. I picked up an OEM seat at the last RS Swap meet, so I decided to see if it could fit? Here is the current seat and crazy stand that has a plate bolted through the floor of the tool storage area:

Here is the seat I bought. As you can see, someone welded legs onto it...maybe for a truck where the tool storage box was removed?

I used a cutoff wheel and grinder to bring it back to original. Then I took the non functioning seat slides and soaked them so now the seat slides back and forth. I’m going to see if I can get it mounted this week? The brackets, LUCKILY, are still in the truck.

 

[LARGEONE]

Messing with this seat reminds me that I need to find a storage lid for the box under the seat. The seat bottom rests on top of the storage lid, so it would be cool to get that back to original. Does anyone local have an extra lid for a 67 to 72 (I think)? I may have a line on one from North Carolina, but I’d rather stay local due to size of shipping.

I found a storage cover for below the seat. It was already sand blasted and primed, so that was a bonus.

 

[LARGEONE]

OK...so it has been a while on updates...so here goes.

Only this group would understand how I could turn a rear tail light fix into a complete rear sill replacement and rear quarter panel repair!!! WTF!!!! So here is how it happened:

I noticed my rear brake lights and combination signals in the rear were completely non-functional. I took one of them off to find this...

Upon further investigation, the rear wiring was a complete mess, so I took the whole rear harness apart and ordered new wire and connectors from @coolerman (great service as always).

Once I got the harness roughed together, I quickly realized that my new combination lights were not going to mount to the completely rusted and trashed brackets.

No one sell the brackets (except Mark's Offroad in CA) that I could find, so I decided to fab up my own brackets from some extra flat stock I had laying around.

They turned out really nice, but when I mounted them on the rear cross-member, I looked at them and said "Ewwwww, YUK!" So, that is when my rear tail-light project turned into a complete rear sill replacement. I just couldn't look at the new taillights with the completely rusted through sill and rusted/dented rear quarters.

 

[LARGEONE]

I immediately started taking the rear tire doors off, but before removing the doors, I pulled them together tight, and welded a 1/4" strap across the rear to keep the tub from falling out. The hard top was still on, but I wanted to make sure everything stayed true while I welded in the rear sill.

I had quite a bit of trouble removing a lot of the screws on the doors, including the spare tire hinge bolts...especially the bottom bolts. They were all corroded badly from under the rear fenders. I sprayed them with Kroil several times and added a little heat, but some of them still broke off. Oh well. I eventually welded nuts on them and got them out and then chased the threads for re-installation.

Then I started cutting the rear sill out...first the cut across the tub, and then the cuts on the rear quarter panels.

The left rear quarter I decided to buy a patch panel from CCOT, while the right rear I just cut the sill out, and made patch panels. In hindsight, I might have done patches for both since the left one was much easier to get smooth. Both turned out pretty good in the end, with MINIMAL (I mean next to none) filler needed to make them perfectly straight.