2 Wheel Drive content... nothing to see here

rover67

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Yep that got my juices flowing for sure.
 

MDH33

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Sorry, I was just kidding around about parting it out. ;)

Rebuilt the fuel pump with found parts and primed the system with a syringe vacuum. Did the trick!

i-xDMKbpX-L.jpg


Startup!

runs like crap, but it's running!:headbang:

 
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Crash

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Sounds solid to me Martin. Yay. Talked with Hans Davis at the Rally yesterday and was really glad to hear you had just bought some parts from him. Figured that parting the truck out was not happening. Saul Goodman. 👍👍
 

MountainGoat

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That is so frickin' cool buddy. If anyone could do it you would be the one. :hill::zilla: :beer2:
 

MDH33

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Sounds solid to me Martin. Yay. Talked with Hans Davis at the Rally yesterday and was really glad to hear you had just bought some parts from him. Figured that parting the truck out was not happening. Saul Goodman. 👍👍
That is so frickin' cool buddy. If anyone could do it you would be the one. :hill::zilla: :beer2:
Thanks guys, trying to do this on the cheap until I know it runs!

I got it to idle but It's still running pretty rough. Lots of tuning to do.

 

Notyourmomslx450

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AWESOME!!
 

nakman

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So cool, Martin! great job. time for the kiddo to take you for a spin around the block!
 

MDH33

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Thanks for the encouragement. Progress is slow!

I took the day off from work today as I had a couple of my crew guys out sick and I tweaked my back monday and needed a day away from hard labor.

Vacuumed about 5 gallons of mouse nests out of all the ducts and vents. So gross! :sick: apparently the exhaust was packed too as it blew mouse nest particles everywhere in the back of my garage on first startup. Just found the mess today.

Cleaned up the interior more and smells much better!

Spent some time trying to tune it to get the idle set, but just can't keep it running without choke and it's missing pretty bad. Points are set and distributor is working better after cleaning it up and getting the advance to work properly, but hard to get timing right with the idle issue. No obvious air leaks, it's pretty simple. It responds to air/fuel idle adjust, but not enough to keep it running without choke. Might pull the carb off again and double check the idle passages are clear. I noticed the float was off and bowl was overfilling, but reset float height and no change.

I got a new cap and rotor but the rotor is incorrect for this distributor. Waited 2 weeks for it too...

Any other suggestions?
 
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nakman

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what RPM is the idle set at? does it improve much if you bump it up a tiny bit?
 

HDavis

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Would this rotor work?
 

simps80

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Vacuum leak
Tighten all the intake and exhaust manifold bolts?
Do you have a vacuum gauge if so what do you have at idle?
 

MDH33

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Idle should be around 500rpm, but I have to keep it way up with choke, over 1000 to run. Setting throttle idle adjust higher doesn't help. I have a vacuum guage, but the only lines are the pcv at the carb base and the vacuum advance line to distributor, so not very useful. I did tighten up all the manifold bolts. I sprayed around the carb too, but no change, which makes me think it has to be the idle circuit on the carb, but that's frustrating as I just rebuilt it and it was super clean. Misfiring too, so might just pull the distributor and take it apart and clean it better. Coil seems like its fine. Running no alternator power, but battery is charged. Spark too weak contributing?
 

MDH33

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Would this rotor work?
Those look correct. Mike at Cabe sent me 19102-24121 which has the same shape on top, but the inside is completely different. I think it might be from a corolla.

Here's a pic. The correct version is on top, the one that Mike sent is below, doesn't fit distributor at all.

i-7BSCLkP-XL.jpg


Distributor appears original to truck and part number is in the range it should be.

i-GZJ76rd-L.jpg
 
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simps80

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Well
It’s sucks but a leak down might be in order to see if there are internal leaks

Do you have good compression across all four?

It is most times conclusive (head gasket vs head vs cylinder vs other) if good compression to find leaks

but the outcomes are potentially not what you want to hear

Unless it’s just misadjusted valves etc etc

Let me know if you need leak down or compression test kits can ship and ship back

Bad idle on fresh carb is a sign of a vacuum leak internal or external to the engine itself

Proper carb idle needs pure sealed all over vacuum
 
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nakman

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What if you jumped it with the 60 just to see if the idle improves... the 60 idles around 13.1 right? so if it runs better at higher voltage, that would validate your spark too weak/bad alternator theory.
 

MDH33

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Well
It’s sucks but a leak down might be in order to see if there are internal leaks

Do you have good compression across all four?

It is most times conclusive (head gasket vs head vs cylinder vs other) if good compression to find leaks

but the outcomes are potentially not what you want to hear

Unless it’s just misadjusted valves etc etc

Let me know if you need leak down or compression test kits can ship and ship back

Bad idle on fresh carb is a sign of a vacuum leak internal or external to the engine itself

Proper carb idle needs pure sealed all over vacuum
That's good advice Mike. Didnt think i would have to as "it ran when parked", but we know how that goes. I actually picked up comression and leak down testers when i got the '69 fj40, so i'll bust them out and see what i find. Thanks for the offer to borrow yours!

Should be easier on this 3rb as the engine can be turned by hand vs the F.

I'll post up my findings.
 
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MDH33

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What if you jumped it with the 60 just to see if the idle improves... the 60 idles around 13.1 right? so if it runs better at higher voltage, that would validate your spark too weak/bad alternator theory.
Worth trying, and easier than replacing alternator!
 

rckhound

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Not sure if you mentioned it but chasing a rough idle situation on a 79’ and found a bad vacuum advance diaphragm on the distributor. I know these early ones done tend to fail but worth a try.
 
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