MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Yes, that's the one. 😆
2 Wheel Drive content... nothing to see here
- Thread starter MDH33
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MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Not a whole lot done on Godzilla this weekend. It was 100° and humid Saturday and rainy and humid Sunday, but I spent some time cleaning under the hood, spraying more PB blaster and pulled the carb to see what I need to rebuild it.
It looks original, but I was surprised to find that it's not an Aisan but a Nikki. It's pretty clean and nothing seems stuck. Confirmed the gasket patterns and ordered a keyster rebuild kit. Next will flush the tank and change the fuel filter.
It looks original, but I was surprised to find that it's not an Aisan but a Nikki. It's pretty clean and nothing seems stuck. Confirmed the gasket patterns and ordered a keyster rebuild kit. Next will flush the tank and change the fuel filter.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Cooling system is dry/evaporated/rusty. I'll try to flush as much crap out with a hose first. Hopefully the waterpump isn't toast. Any suggestions on getting it flushed and filled enough for a test start once the fuel system is ready?
Sorry Martin, no suggestions other than keep after it a little bit at a time. It’s summer, after all, so no reason to kill yourself in the heat and humidity. Godzilla, love it(!), has waited to be reincarnated this long, so no rush now. 👍🍺
simps80
Rising Sun Member
Diluted muratic acid cycle
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Can I fill and soak with that first in the hope it breaks up the crusty stuff? Was contemplating filling it with a CLR solution and letting it sit a day or two.
simps80
Rising Sun Member
1to 10 muriatic to water soak and circulate
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I'd go straight to the muriatic acid, too. You want to start dissolving (chemistry!) any crystallization as soon as you wet it rather having it just break apart and circulate. Maybe try and clean out what you can dry first, there seems like value in that.
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
On an 2F that I bought (stored with the cooling system open to the atmosphere for 11 years), the rusty flakes all ended up in the radiator, clogging it.
You might want to remove the upper radiator hose and see if you can flush the block a bunch with a garden hose, and let all the crap flow out of the upper radiator hose. Remove the t-stat as well to allow free movement of the rusty bits. Some crud will end up in the radiator no matter how you do this.
You might want to remove the upper radiator hose and see if you can flush the block a bunch with a garden hose, and let all the crap flow out of the upper radiator hose. Remove the t-stat as well to allow free movement of the rusty bits. Some crud will end up in the radiator no matter how you do this.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Would it work to just pull the radiator so it's out of the loop, then close off the heater core loop and try to fill the block from the top with t-stat out and then drain it? That would keep the crud from going through the radiator and heater core?
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Radiator and heater core out of the circuit seems like it would be enough for avoiding crud in the smallest passages, although then they don't get the hydrochloric acid, which I'd think would benefit the yellow metal stuff most. With them out I guess I don't see much benefit to anything other than a regular water flush.
I'd probably personally take out the heater core, too, and have it and the radiator dipped (boiled) in an old school radiator shop, though, so they are cleaned, checked, soldered if necessary and come back all shiny and black.
I'd probably personally take out the heater core, too, and have it and the radiator dipped (boiled) in an old school radiator shop, though, so they are cleaned, checked, soldered if necessary and come back all shiny and black.
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MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Yeah, that makes sense. Before I dump a bunch of money into it, I think I'll flush the radiator separate from the block, put it back together and try a test run once the fuel system is clean. If it runs, I'll pull it apart and have the heater core and radiator done like you suggested. Hoses and clamps need replacement too, but won't put that money into it unless the engine runs.
simps80
Rising Sun Member
I did that on the 70 fill the block buft left the old radiator in cause I had a new oem radiator and water pump and tstat
I did loop the heater out of cycle then filled and soaked
I swapped the heater core later when I rebuilt the heater with new from Amazon
So could’ve left that in loop but didn’t
Drained from the pet cock down on lower left driver side of block
Repeat
Repeat
Then went to distilled
Repeat repeat
It worked well
That thing cooled better than most
If the radiator is in good shape (mine was not)
You could take it out of the loop
I did loop the heater out of cycle then filled and soaked
I swapped the heater core later when I rebuilt the heater with new from Amazon
So could’ve left that in loop but didn’t
Drained from the pet cock down on lower left driver side of block
Repeat
Repeat
Then went to distilled
Repeat repeat
It worked well
That thing cooled better than most
If the radiator is in good shape (mine was not)
You could take it out of the loop
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
I got the rebuild kit and started into the carb today. Confirmed that the 3r carb is same as the 5r carb. RK41 (USA lite stout) and RK100 (non USA stout). I have a 5r manual that covers both 3r and 5r, they're almost the same.
Lots of good stuff in the keyster rebuild kit.
This is such a cool little 2 barrel carb. Nothing extra on it, just the basics. Nothing was frozen or missing so I just broke it down far enough to clean it up and blow out all the passages after it had soaked in carb cleaner.
Here's a comparison pic of the old parts next to the rebuild kit parts. Most were in really good shape so I re-used a lot. Mostly replaced gaskets. For the accelerator pump, I might keep the old leather plunger and retrofit it to the new spring assembly.
One of the features I really like on this carb is that you can open and clean the accelerator pump nozzle, change the float height and fuel level, swap the slow, primary and secondary jets and access the accelerator pump circuit without taking the air horn off.
But, it's a bummer they used plastic in the big window instead of glass like the Aisan carbs... I cleaned it up, but it's yellow with fuel and time exposure. Kind of cool to see the float and needle valve though!
Lots of good stuff in the keyster rebuild kit.
This is such a cool little 2 barrel carb. Nothing extra on it, just the basics. Nothing was frozen or missing so I just broke it down far enough to clean it up and blow out all the passages after it had soaked in carb cleaner.
Here's a comparison pic of the old parts next to the rebuild kit parts. Most were in really good shape so I re-used a lot. Mostly replaced gaskets. For the accelerator pump, I might keep the old leather plunger and retrofit it to the new spring assembly.
One of the features I really like on this carb is that you can open and clean the accelerator pump nozzle, change the float height and fuel level, swap the slow, primary and secondary jets and access the accelerator pump circuit without taking the air horn off.
But, it's a bummer they used plastic in the big window instead of glass like the Aisan carbs... I cleaned it up, but it's yellow with fuel and time exposure. Kind of cool to see the float and needle valve though!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
PO gave me a copy of the original us market brochure, pretty cool.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Gets even better. Greg the PO just found the owners manual! It's rough, but oh so cool and useful!
Noticed right away that it covers the rk41 lite and rk100 heavy non-usa version so it's right hand drive photos.
Also, I was curious about the side mirrors. Manual shows a ds fender mounted round mirror on both. Headache rack too. I'm on the hunt!
Noticed right away that it covers the rk41 lite and rk100 heavy non-usa version so it's right hand drive photos.
Also, I was curious about the side mirrors. Manual shows a ds fender mounted round mirror on both. Headache rack too. I'm on the hunt!
awesome
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
I had a little time yesterday to work on the stout. I got a parts delivery from Mike Bingham at Cabe Toyota. He's the Stout guru and has been very helpful with parts and info.
Here's a pic of Mike's Stout, it travels to car shows and is displayed by the dealership. Pretty cool. I found an article about it in an auto magazine on ebay. Need to scan it in and post that too sometime.
So I got the top of the thermostat housing off with some difficulty. Lots of seized bolts on this engine. Snapped one off even after a couple weeks of repeated soaks with PB blaster. Good news is that the block is full of coolant, so I I'm going to give the radiator a flush and soak, then the whole system once I'm ready to fire it up. The old thermostat looks good and wasn't seized. I got a new one anyway. Still trying to find radiator hoses, but they're pretty simple, so hoping the local auto parts store can match something similar.
I pulled the aftermarket alternator and found some wires that had shorted and a couple disconnected. On the hunt for a proper alternator. The brackets are seized on so they're soaking too.
This is the alternator harness. Yikes. Will definitely fix this up. Most of the other harness connections looks pretty good luckily.
New Toyota parts.
I wonder if these are the original plugs? Denso w20ex-u
On the hunt for original choke cable. Its a solid core type like an older fj40, but it has a gray knob with a C on it. In the pic below you can see where it's missing, left of the T knob, which is the hand throttle.
This pic is from the internet, someone else's nice stout that has the correct choke cable and also AM radio and speaker too.
Here's a pic of Mike's Stout, it travels to car shows and is displayed by the dealership. Pretty cool. I found an article about it in an auto magazine on ebay. Need to scan it in and post that too sometime.
So I got the top of the thermostat housing off with some difficulty. Lots of seized bolts on this engine. Snapped one off even after a couple weeks of repeated soaks with PB blaster. Good news is that the block is full of coolant, so I I'm going to give the radiator a flush and soak, then the whole system once I'm ready to fire it up. The old thermostat looks good and wasn't seized. I got a new one anyway. Still trying to find radiator hoses, but they're pretty simple, so hoping the local auto parts store can match something similar.
I pulled the aftermarket alternator and found some wires that had shorted and a couple disconnected. On the hunt for a proper alternator. The brackets are seized on so they're soaking too.
This is the alternator harness. Yikes. Will definitely fix this up. Most of the other harness connections looks pretty good luckily.
New Toyota parts.
I wonder if these are the original plugs? Denso w20ex-u
On the hunt for original choke cable. Its a solid core type like an older fj40, but it has a gray knob with a C on it. In the pic below you can see where it's missing, left of the T knob, which is the hand throttle.
This pic is from the internet, someone else's nice stout that has the correct choke cable and also AM radio and speaker too.
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