2 Wheel Drive content... nothing to see here

[MDH33]

I got home tonight, cracked open a beer, leaned on the fender and stared at the lump awhile wondering where its sucking air.. Found it I think: PCV system. Hard line connects on the block below the exhaust manifold. As I was checking the hoses and the pcv valve I found the hard line was loose/broken... base of carb was sucking a lot of air.

Ran much better with it plugged. But, still missing and needs a bit of choke...

Connected alternator after checking voltage. Seems to be working. The wiring was a confusing mess but figured it out. Someone had spliced in incorrect colored wire pieces, so it was throwing me off as I compared it to diagrams.

WR spliced to WB and W spliced to WR... all wrapped in electrical tape, looked like oem harness!

Planning to do leak down test this weekend and dig deeper into distributor and hopefully sort out idle.

 

[MDH33]

I did a compression check and it seemed a little low, but very consistent. 115-118 on all 4. (Could be my crappy made in China tester).

There is a vacuum port on the manifold and I am getting a low reading, 13 in Hg at "idle".

I tried a leak down test and was struggling, (I kind of suck at this). But seemed like only a little loss past the rings into crankcase.

I got the temp guage connected, and definitely overheating. Plugs look lean too, so confirms it must be an airleak?

Any advice? Thinking it might be time to pull manifolds off and look for cracks?

 

[simps80]

Did you spray around the manifold and car base etc when running to see if it changed?
Sometimes just retorqueing manifold can help

 

[MDH33]

Did you spray around the manifold and car base etc when running to see if it changed?
Sometimes just retorqueing manifold can help

Hi Mike, yes, did both on initial startup. One or two bolts needed tightening, but otherwise checked out.

 

[rckhound]

Your lower compression could also be because the truck sat for so long the rings may be slightly stuck. It may improve over time as you run the motor and heat cycle it.

 

[MDH33]

I pulled the distributor and took it all apart and cleaned it up. It was pretty dirty inside and the plates and governor are moving more freely now. Hopefully this will help with tuning once i figure out the air leak.

Going to go ahead and pull the manifolds off. Exhaust studs are seized, so thats going to slow things down even more.

I'm looking for a manifold gasket. Found some in australia... might be a few weeks to get it if i cant track something down.

Got the fuel guage, temp guage, oil pressure light all working. Need to figure out how to connect the charge light to the gm single wire alt.

Sorry, no pics lately.

 

[fjc man]

What’s the part number?

 

[MDH33]

What’s the part number?

I wish I knew. I saw a parts manual on ebay in Thailand for $500...

I reached out to Mike Bingham again to see if he can track it down, along with some other stuff.

 

[HDavis]

I wish I knew. I saw a parts manual on ebay in Thailand for $500...

I reached out to Mike Bingham again to see if he can track it down, along with some other stuff.

I think this might be the parts catalog for $174 plus whatever it costs to ship from Japan.

https://buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/d426246083?conversionType=service_page_search

 

[wesintl]

is the vacuum steady or does it bounce on the guage? if it's steady that's a good sign

 

[MDH33]

is the vacuum steady or does it bounce on the guage? if it's steady that's a good sign

Bouncing a little because it's missing. Have a new cap, but still waiting on rotor. Looking for compatible wires too just to baseline as much as possible.

 

[rover67]

Keep at it. You could use a universal plug wire kit if you wanted.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Bouncing a little because it's missing. Have a new cap, but still waiting on rotor. Looking for compatible wires too just to baseline as much as possible.

I bet ya wires from an old Chevy 153 would work. They came in Chevy II Novas.

 

[simps80]

Steady even if low is a good sign for achieving good idle without choke
You got this Martin fix the miss see where you’re at!!

 

[MDH33]

I pulled the manifolds off looking for the air leak. The gasket is toast and there were a couple of obvious big exhaust leaks and the exhaust manifold is super crusty. Intake however, looks clean and no obvious cracks.

Head surface and intake manifold surfaces showed no warpage, but exhaust manifold has heavy corrosion.

New manifold gasket will help with exhaust leak. I couldn't tell because it's extremely windy under the hood because there isn't a cowl on the radiator fan. Need to see if they ever had one.

Overall, exhaust manifold is in rough shape. Bolts/nuts connecting to intake and downpipe are seized solid. I tried heat and penetrating oil, but won't budge yet. Trying not to break them off.

The 3R guy Carlyn, has a manifold gasket but he travels a lot so I'm waiting to hear back if he can get a manifold too. Have some other parts coming from Thailand on the slow boat...


So, while I'm waiting, decided to dive into the brakes. Driver side came apart no problem. Wheels cylinders move freely and no sign of leaks. Passenger side both drums are seized on so I spent some time fighting those but will let them soak in more penetrating oil.

These are some bizarre wheel cylinders. Was hoping they would be the same as fj40 (heard they were, but that must be the "heavy" non USA Stout).

Rear

Clutch and brake MC's look exactly like the early 40 stuff, so should be easy. Just need to decide if I stick with original or upgrade brakes.

 

[HDavis]

Looking good Martin! I think the clutch slave cylinder might also be the same as a 40.

It’s true about the brakes. Apparently the only vehicle that shares those rear brake cylinders with the Lite Stout is the Crown, and those are as much of a rarity as the Stouts are.

If you are looking to upgrade the front brakes message me and I’ll share the secret recipe.

 

[MDH33]

Looking good Martin! I think the clutch slave cylinder might also be the same as a 40.

It’s true about the brakes. Apparently the only vehicle that shares those rear brake cylinders with the Lite Stout is the Crown, and those are as much of a rarity as the Stouts are.

If you are looking to upgrade the front brakes message me and I’ll share the secret recipe.

Yeah, I was like wtf is that? They're free moving though, and maybe rebuildable with other guts? Would be cool to make them work.🤓

Slave cylinder is unique due to that weird integrated bell housing on transmission. I've never seen anything like it, but Mike Bingham thinks he has a rebuild kit.

What do you guys think on the exhaust manifold? Replace it or try to get it machined? Should I pull the head and check valves more closely since I'm already 1/2 way there? Feels like some crunchy carbon feeling around inside those intakes now that the manifold is off.

 

[HDavis]

Yeah, I was like wtf is that? They're free moving though, and maybe rebuildable with other guts? Would be cool to make them work.🤓

Slave cylinder is unique due to that weird integrated bell housing on transmission. I've never seen anything like it, but Mike Bingham thinks he has a rebuild kit.

What do you guys think on the exhaust manifold? Replace it or try to get it machined? Should I pull the head and check valves more closely since I'm already 1/2 way there? Feels like some crunchy carbon feeling around inside those intakes now that the manifold is off.

Yes, some more resilient owners have found ways to rebuild them. I don't know what all needs to be done though. I would reach out to Rob Franklin in the Stout group; I think figured out a way to rebuild his. He has been meticulously restoring his Stout.

I swear I was told the new slave cylinder in mine came from the Toyota parts bin.

As for the exhaust manifold. I don't recall reading what your full intention is with the Stout. If you think you want to rebuild the engine, then I would reach out to a machinist and get their opinion on the manifold with the plan to get into head while you are there too. If you want to drive it first, then I would clean the surface and see if it will cut the mustard for the time being. You might also post in the Facebook group and see if someone has a good manifold. You never know who might have exactly what you need.

 

[rover67]

If that thing isnt leaking i'd be tempted to bolt it right back on. Don't dig in too deep man, the issue is likely something simple.

 

[MDH33]

If that thing isnt leaking i'd be tempted to bolt it right back on. Don't dig in too deep man, the issue is likely something simple.

The exhaust manifolds probably won't seal with just a new gasket so looking at getting them both machined or finding another. Still stumped about the air leak. It's bad enough the engine overheats quickly and the plugs are turning white, stalls instantly without choke.