What have you done to your rig today?

rover67

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2007
Messages
9,656
Location
Boulder, Co
I recently discovered that the hard lines going back to the rear heater in my 80 are corroded and leaking coolant. Unfortunately, replacing the hard lines is an expensive and difficult job. New hard lines are available from Toyota but the cost is like $450, and you need to remove the heat shields above the catalytic converters to replace them. :mad: Some 80 owners in cold climates who like using the rear heater solve the problem by running silicon lines all the way from the engine compartment back to the rear heater, bypassing the hard lines rather than replacing them.

In my case, I haven't used the rear heater hardly at all the entire time I've owned my 80, and now that the kids are grown, I probably won't use it ever again. So I simply bypassed the rear heater. This is an inexpensive ($60) fix and quicker job. I purchased a formed rubber heater hose from LandCruiserPhil on Mud which gives a cleaner solution with fewer sections of hose and way fewer hose clamps.

In both these photos, the upper arrow points to the connections to the heater core which gets reconnected to the system. The lower arrows point to the beginning of the hard lines running back to the rear heater which are no longer connected to anything.

Passenger side:

IMG_0923 2.jpeg

Driver side:

IMG_0925 2.jpeg
thats slick. I see he also sells a t case shifter extension..
 

Doughboy

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2018
Messages
820
Not toyota, but replacing the gas tank in an Audi Q7 is a mess. This is my sister's car and she ran something over and punctured the gas tank.

when it happened, I advised her to park it, and set fire to it.
1000016911.jpg
 

Lastresort576

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
732
Location
Westminster
I recently discovered that the hard lines going back to the rear heater in my 80 are corroded and leaking coolant. Unfortunately, replacing the hard lines is an expensive and difficult job. New hard lines are available from Toyota but the cost is like $450, and you need to remove the heat shields above the catalytic converters to replace them. :mad: Some 80 owners in cold climates who like using the rear heater solve the problem by running silicon lines all the way from the engine compartment back to the rear heater, bypassing the hard lines rather than replacing them.

In my case, I haven't used the rear heater hardly at all the entire time I've owned my 80, and now that the kids are grown, I probably won't use it ever again. So I simply bypassed the rear heater. This is an inexpensive ($60) fix and quicker job. I purchased a formed rubber heater hose from LandCruiserPhil on Mud which gives a cleaner solution with fewer sections of hose and way fewer hose clamps.

In both these photos, the upper arrow points to the connections to the heater core which gets reconnected to the system. The lower arrows point to the beginning of the hard lines running back to the rear heater which are no longer connected to anything.

Passenger side:

IMG_0923 2.jpeg

Driver side:

IMG_0925 2.jpeg
ahh so thats why a lot of people bypass the rear heater. good to know. have a feeling ill be doing the same soon myself. pix of it all back together?
 

timmbuck2

RS Club TLCA Delegate
Staff member
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Oct 5, 2005
Messages
5,494
Location
Denver
OK so this is technically "mine" but it is a 60 parts rig I am tearing down. Hmm maybe the pics have something to do with each other?? IMG_7689.jpg.jpegIMG_8018.jpg.jpeg
 

Hulk

RS Webmaster
Staff member
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
17,529
Location
Centennial
ahh so thats why a lot of people bypass the rear heater. good to know. have a feeling ill be doing the same soon myself. pix of it all back together?
I'll snap a few. There's not much to see.
 

dan1554

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
759
Location
Chaffee County
Loaded up the fam this morning to drive up over aspen ridge. Had been having starter problems for a while but usually its a few clicks and it starts. Stopped right here to let the kids out, and when we got back and tried to start.

After many clicks and with great reluctance, I crawled under the rig and pulled out the starter. Luckily I knew the writing was on the wall so I had ordered a new plunger and contacts. Anyway got it out and did surgery on the tailgate. Re-installed the starter and went to attach the battery terminal and it started turning over immediately when touching the clamp to the battery. Must have re-assembled the starter incorrectly. At that point there was no way I was going to pull the starter again. Disconnect cable from the starter terminal, re-connect battery, and then touch power cable to starer terminal while laying under the cruiser. Now we're running again.

We had snacks and a nice place to work in so it wasnt too bad, kids stayed mostly happy through the process. Heres the location and the starter. This evening Ill tear back in to it, but thankfully itll be in the shop with some brews.

Screenshot 2025-10-04 at 2.36.27 PM.pngScreenshot 2025-10-04 at 2.38.04 PM.png
 

Crash

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2005
Messages
4,561
Location
Denver
Loaded up the fam this morning to drive up over aspen ridge. Had been having starter problems for a while but usually its a few clicks and it starts. Stopped right here to let the kids out, and when we got back and tried to start.

After many clicks and with great reluctance, I crawled under the rig and pulled out the starter. Luckily I knew the writing was on the wall so I had ordered a new plunger and contacts. Anyway got it out and did surgery on the tailgate. Re-installed the starter and went to attach the battery terminal and it started turning over immediately when touching the clamp to the battery. Must have re-assembled the starter incorrectly. At that point there was no way I was going to pull the starter again. Disconnect cable from the starter terminal, re-connect battery, and then touch power cable to starer terminal while laying under the cruiser. Now we're running again.

We had snacks and a nice place to work in so it wasnt too bad, kids stayed mostly happy through the process. Heres the location and the starter. This evening Ill tear back in to it, but thankfully itll be in the shop with some brews.

Screenshot 2025-10-04 at 2.36.27 PM.pngScreenshot 2025-10-04 at 2.38.04 PM.png
A story the kids will always remember/never let you forget. 😎
 

Lastresort576

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
732
Location
Westminster
Loaded up the fam this morning to drive up over aspen ridge. Had been having starter problems for a while but usually its a few clicks and it starts. Stopped right here to let the kids out, and when we got back and tried to start.

After many clicks and with great reluctance, I crawled under the rig and pulled out the starter. Luckily I knew the writing was on the wall so I had ordered a new plunger and contacts. Anyway got it out and did surgery on the tailgate. Re-installed the starter and went to attach the battery terminal and it started turning over immediately when touching the clamp to the battery. Must have re-assembled the starter incorrectly. At that point there was no way I was going to pull the starter again. Disconnect cable from the starter terminal, re-connect battery, and then touch power cable to starer terminal while laying under the cruiser. Now we're running again.

We had snacks and a nice place to work in so it wasnt too bad, kids stayed mostly happy through the process. Heres the location and the starter. This evening Ill tear back in to it, but thankfully itll be in the shop with some brews.

Screenshot 2025-10-04 at 2.36.27 PM.pngScreenshot 2025-10-04 at 2.38.04 PM.png
You more or less have to install the contacts with a block of wood and a press in order to have them sit properly against the bottom of the housing and not twist up.
 

dan1554

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
759
Location
Chaffee County
Here's why I was having starer problems.

PXL_20251005_012158138.MP.jpg

Edit - the reason it was stuck on start was one of the new contacts I used was contacting the starter signal circuit. Swapped the larger contact to the other side, problem solved
 

dan1554

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Oct 4, 2010
Messages
759
Location
Chaffee County
You more or less have to install the contacts with a block of wood and a press in order to have them sit properly against the bottom of the housing and not twist up.
That makes a lot of sense. I'll try that the next time I inevitably get the click click. Maybe before I head out with the kids.
 

simps80

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
2,947
Location
Arvada, CO
I've owned a few 80s for the last 21 years and have never had to do this. Where's my award?!

if i hadn’t taken 12 stuffed truck loads of junk for my MIL to the arc as they were moving out of state I wouldn’t have had to do it either

lesson learned don’t use the motor against a stuffed truck load of shit

it’s a pretty sturdy set up considering it’s plastic…
until the screw rods become un parallel like Tim said in his video

that’s exactly how this failed
advancing the screws against an uneven load the pop went that cap
that little motor is pretty strong
 

Lastresort576

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
732
Location
Westminster
That makes a lot of sense. I'll try that the next time I inevitably get the click click. Maybe before I head out with the kids.
If you’re currently using that starter and the contacts are twisted you will get uneven wear on the contacts and plunger..so might be something worth looking into sooner than later.
 
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