What have you done to your rig today?

nakman

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north side
I upgraded my little camp situation- inspired by @AimCOTaco 's setup but with fewer moving parts. I made a little shelf that bolts to the ladder side of the swing-out, which now has a can/bottle holder as well as a PVC 1 pound propane tank holder. Now I can boil my water for coffee/oatmeal and still sit on the tailgate, and/or access the drawers without having to move the stove, or spill all the water, and also set my :beer: down somewhere and not have it fall onto the ground 20 second later.

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The 4" end cap is bolted to the shelf, it stays there. The piece of tubing can separate though, or stay put, in fact I can even close everything with the stove still in place. Worst part of the job was the sticker shock from the PVC pieces. I've got an extra 3' of the 4" part if anyone wants to replicate this.
 

DaveInDenver

Rising Sun Ham Guru
Joined
Jun 8, 2006
Messages
11,369
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Grand Junction
So begins the keeping my junk from falling apart phase of ownership. Obviously they don't make 'em like they used to. This is stitching to pull back together a fracture that developed on the inner fender sheet metal. Truck was put into service 3/08 and has just 114k on it. :doh:

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Stuckinthe80s

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Dec 29, 2017
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Lakewood, CO
I upgraded my little camp situation- inspired by @AimCOTaco 's setup but with fewer moving parts. I made a little shelf that bolts to the ladder side of the swing-out, which now has a can/bottle holder as well as a PVC 1 pound propane tank holder. Now I can boil my water for coffee/oatmeal and still sit on the tailgate, and/or access the drawers without having to move the stove, or spill all the water, and also set my :beer: down somewhere and not have it fall onto the ground 20 second later.

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View attachment 106673

The 4" end cap is bolted to the shelf, it stays there. The piece of tubing can separate though, or stay put, in fact I can even close everything with the stove still in place. Worst part of the job was the sticker shock from the PVC pieces. I've got an extra 3' of the 4" part if anyone wants to replicate this.
That's freaking brilliant!
 

Carbon14

Rock Stacker
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
42
Location
Golden, Co
Over the past week, I have found it necessary to fix two problems that I have created in trying to solve one problem. The original problem was vapor locking on my pig. I surmised that separating the manifolds would reduce the heat in the carb, so I put a wrapped header on and gave my old exhaust manifold to a member to help with a problem in Idaho.

It helped a little, but I still had a vapor lock problem on the hottest days.
Fine, I bypassed the mechanical fuel pump, and put an electric fuel pump right at the fuel tank. High summer is gone, so I really don't know if the problem is completely fix. I will have to wait for the next 95 degree plus day to be sure. If that doesn't cure the problem completely, I will louver the hood windward and leeward of the carb to get more cool air in there.

The second problem is that the header was very close to the stock brake splitter and hose on the front axle. Fine, I re-routed the brake line splitter and line to the other end of the axle. That at least seems to be a fix. No more locking up the front brakes from heat pressurizing the brake fluid.
 

Corbet

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Oct 24, 2006
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Durango, Colorado
Installed a new brake booster and master cylinder.

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Couple tips, remember to swap out the brake pedal clevis thing before installing the new booster. And hire a circus contortionist to install it. If not available make your kid crawl under the dash.

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Installed a new battery. While I got it in there I continue to loath the 80 battery tray more and more with every passing year. I wish someone would bring a steel battery tray to the aftermarket. This Deka group 31 fit but all my past 31’s fit better. Also the terminal configuration of this one sucks for our application. Wiring was going along well and clean until I realized another military spec terminal clamp on the + terminal was going to end up grounding its self on the hold down bar. But it was by far the most affordable AGM 31 I could source.

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nakman

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north side
I resolved the "pit of despair" situation behind the fridge, aka that open spot that stuff falls into when you slide the fridge out. Repurposed most of an older cargo barrier that I had around, an awning bracket, and a chuck of a scrap piece of plastic grid panel. I don't like full fridge enclosures, as I like the ability to get into the fridge from inside the vehicle. But tired of my sleeping bag rolling behind the fridge when I slide it out, so hopefully this fixes that.

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fyffer

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
225
Location
Trinidad, CO
Greased all zirks a few weeks back and noticed a nut missing to rear passenger schackle. So I tried very hard to get one on, to no avail. So an upcoming Cardiac event could not be done. So I got her done, a very tight fit for the bolt.
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fyffer

Rising Sun Member
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Sep 22, 2019
Messages
225
Location
Trinidad, CO
Tire carrier folded over while doing Poughkeepsie wall (well shirt). Got the remnants back home and fixed. Thanks to many helpful and kind people. A TMR spindle should last me a while I suppose!
Many thanks to all and especially @PhatFJ
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RayRay27

Cruise Moab Committee
Cruise Moab Committee
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Jun 26, 2015
Messages
1,229
Location
Thornton via Boulder
I have gone full overland bruh with my latest purchase. Never thought I would get a RTT but the price was too good to pass up.
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RayRay27

Cruise Moab Committee
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
1,229
Location
Thornton via Boulder
Installed a new brake booster and master cylinder.

View attachment 106778

Couple tips, remember to swap out the brake pedal clevis thing before installing the new booster. And hire a circus contortionist to install it. If not available make your kid crawl under the dash.

View attachment 106781

Installed a new battery. While I got it in there I continue to loath the 80 battery tray more and more with every passing year. I wish someone would bring a steel battery tray to the aftermarket. This Deka group 31 fit but all my past 31’s fit better. Also the terminal configuration of this one sucks for our application. Wiring was going along well and clean until I realized another military spec terminal clamp on the + terminal was going to end up grounding its self on the hold down bar. But it was by far the most affordable AGM 31 I could source.

View attachment 106779


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Did you put in an OEM booster and MC?
 

RayRay27

Cruise Moab Committee
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Jun 26, 2015
Messages
1,229
Location
Thornton via Boulder
Got the OEM like units from Cruiser Outfitters. (Same supplier, not in Toyota box)
Ok just wondering. I know those things aren't cheap right now.
 

DaveInDenver

Rising Sun Ham Guru
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Jun 8, 2006
Messages
11,369
Location
Grand Junction
Could just be the angle of the pic, but it sure looks like your upper shock mount is pretty loose.

Screen Shot 2022-09-06 at 5.35.37 PM.png


Curious how you could tell. It looks to me like it only need a couple of turns but then again "pretty loose" is a very relative to each of us.

Making this point only because a couple of years ago I was busting knuckles on my truck and some knowledge was dropped on me about this subject.

I emailed FOX about the torque value for the stem nut like that and the tech support said there isn't one but to tighten until the bushings just touch and not more than two turns beyond. They should appear to have no deformation.

If they looks like you're squishing them (which was my previous M.O.) you're much too tight and risk snapping the stem off at full droop or stuff. If you pre-squish the bushings then when you're at the travel limits it's a test of how much more rubber or poly can compress verses the shock stem.

I dunno, I've run them like this for almost 7 years without any apparent issues with the bushings walking out or anything. At first I thought the shock swung in an arc pretty (again with the relativism) dang freely but the idea was kind of a light bulb, well duh, moment when they said it.

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DaveInDenver

Rising Sun Ham Guru
Joined
Jun 8, 2006
Messages
11,369
Location
Grand Junction
So begins the keeping my junk from falling apart phase of ownership. Obviously they don't make 'em like they used to. This is stitching to pull back together a fracture that developed on the inner fender sheet metal. Truck was put into service 3/08 and has just 114k on it. :doh:

IMG_2197_mid.jpg
Circling back around with the finished repair and small reinforcement, thusly painted and hastily slobbered last minute prior to a trip with RTV since some of the original anti-rock-chip-undrecoat burned off.

Still left is I think to fabricate a larger force spreader of some sort. It seems like this is the weak spot in the structure, where the frame twist and fender sag under the battery want to pull the core support from the rest of the inner fender.

Which Toyota appeared to know but didn't extend the heavy wall section far enough and probably actually created a stress riser inadvertently. The crack literally followed the edge of it through the plain sheet thickness. I'd guess FMEA said this would be enough but the criteria didn't expect extra weight of AGM and regular dosing of washboard.

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IoN6

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Messages
435
Location
Arvada
View attachment 107070

Curious how you could tell. It looks to me like it only need a couple of turns but then again "pretty loose" is a very relative to each of us.

Making this point only because a couple of years ago I was busting knuckles on my truck and some knowledge was dropped on me about this subject.

I emailed FOX about the torque value for the stem nut like that and the tech support said there isn't one but to tighten until the bushings just touch and not more than two turns beyond. They should appear to have no deformation.

If they looks like you're squishing them (which was my previous M.O.) you're much too tight and risk snapping the stem off at full droop or stuff. If you pre-squish the bushings then when you're at the travel limits it's a test of how much more rubber or poly can compress verses the shock stem.

I dunno, I've run them like this for almost 7 years without any apparent issues with the bushings walking out or anything. At first I thought the shock swung in an arc pretty (again with the relativism) dang freely but the idea was kind of a light bulb, well duh, moment when they said it.

View attachment 107071

Entirely subjective observation. The number of threads showing, the wear ring on the top of the mount, inability to see the grommet under the washer.

Fox's reply would fall under CYA commentary, IMO. Fail to see how bottoming out or over extending a shock that was fasten to their specs not just as easily snap off the stud. Sure there would be ever so slightly more constant pressure, but who uses their shocks as bump stops or limit straps in the first place? :D


[edit]
I think the tighten them until the squish is SOP...






...for rubber grommets. IIRC the ones supplied with Fox shocks is more akin to polyurethane or the like. Would definitely not tighten something like that down until it squishes.
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