• Jack-it Night: April 2024 RS Meeting Hey Guest: Wed. April 3rd is the next Rising Sun meeting, and you won't want to miss it. We're doing our annual offroad recovery equipment demonstration and trail skills training aka "Jack It Night." Meeting starts at 6:30 p.m. (early) Click here for all the details.

Minnesota 40

MDH33

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
7,681
Location
Trapped in a corn field
Not really part of my build, but i`ll add it here anyway. I was stoked to get those FJ40 plates for the Minnesota '69, so I checked on FJ60 availability, why not?

:headbang: got 'em!

i-pJVQdtm-L.jpg
 

SteveH

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Aug 10, 2006
Messages
2,907
Location
Colo Springs
Also broke the plastic T handle for the driver seat when I removed it. Doh! They were only used 67-69 and unobtanium. Passenger was already broken.

i-dCwkFRM-L.jpg


Anyone else with a 67-69 have a good replacement solution? They are brittle and I don't think glue is going to cut it.
3D printing?

Probably not enough 67-69 40 's in existence to justify a plastic mold manufacturing run.

That screams for a brass wing-nut type faucet handle from a non-glamor faucet (like a hot water heater drain valve). I would troll Lowes or Home Depot (or link below) until you find one that looks nice, and then figure out how to make it work. Could a 3D-printed one work?

 

60wag

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2005
Messages
2,469
one of these knobs might work, drill out the threads and add a set screw:
 

MDH33

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
7,681
Location
Trapped in a corn field
Thanks Steve and Bruce, good ideas! I`ll modify something to work. 👍
 

gr8fulabe

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2005
Messages
1,590
Location
Boulder Canyon
I don't recall who, but someone on Mud is making nice knockoffs of that handle. Start doing some searches, or asking around!
 

DaveInDenver

Rising Sun Ham Guru
Joined
Jun 8, 2006
Messages
12,948
Location
Grand Junction
Not really part of my build, but i`ll add it here anyway. I was stoked to get those FJ40 plates for the Minnesota '69, so I checked on FJ60 availability, why not?

:headbang: got 'em!

i-pJVQdtm-L.jpg
You're *the* Iowa Cruiser guy. It's actually kind of a shame if you do ever escape Iowa that both "FJ40" and "FJ60" Iowa vanity plates will only ever end up on your garage wall instead of on trucks, though.
 

MDH33

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
7,681
Location
Trapped in a corn field
Tank and seats reinstalled with correct TEQ lap belts. Everything working great. Onto the cooling system!




i-KCgCFPk-L.jpg
i-5H6sf3T-L.jpg

i-gvM6xRf-M.jpg
 

simps80

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
2,703
Location
Arvada, CO
Nice Martin
Did you already have the red belts?
I need a full set
 

MDH33

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
7,681
Location
Trapped in a corn field
Nice Martin
Did you already have the red belts?
I need a full set
No, it came with a set of 1963 vw belts that might have been dealer installed. They were brown. No belts in back. I'm searching for another set for the jump seats.
 

MDH33

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
7,681
Location
Trapped in a corn field
Been away for several weekends in a row, but got some work done on the 40 today. Installed the new cooling system. New water pump, radiator, thermostat and housing, hoses, 6 blade fan and overflow res. Once the fipg sets up I'll fill and flush and see if it still runs, and hopefully no more leaks!

i-PpXbtFb-L.jpg


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wesintl

RS Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
8,557
Location
in da house
looks fantastic minus those hose clamps ;)
 

MDH33

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
7,681
Location
Trapped in a corn field
looks fantastic minus those hose clamps ;)
Ha! I knew someone would notice. :p

I have almost all of the original double wire, but sor had that kit with all the hoses plus the clamps (which seem pretty tough and are smooth inside). I went the easy route.
 

MDH33

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
7,681
Location
Trapped in a corn field
Also broke the plastic T handle for the driver seat when I removed it. Doh! They were only used 67-69 and unobtanium. Passenger was already broken.

i-dCwkFRM-L.jpg


Anyone else with a 67-69 have a good replacement solution? They are brittle and I don't think glue is going to cut it.
3D printing?

Probably not enough 67-69 40 's in existence to justify a plastic mold manufacturing run.

That screams for a brass wing-nut type faucet handle from a non-glamor faucet (like a hot water heater drain valve). I would troll Lowes or Home Depot (or link below) until you find one that looks nice, and then figure out how to make it work. Could a 3D-printed one work?


one of these knobs might work, drill out the threads and add a set screw:

Thanks Steve and Bruce, good ideas! I`ll modify something to work. 👍

Follow up. I found a 35mm black phenolic knob with a M10x1.50 brass insert on McMaster Carr very similar to the teardrop knob I used to replace the knob on the pto.

i-d9xRjt3-M.jpg
i-GScN84M-M.jpg


Seems like this will work great. More durable and less likely to snag on when climbing in and out.

I used my M10x1.50 die to add threads to release pin/post. Knob screwed on tight. No need for set screw anymore.

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Works great! :hill:

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Thanks again for the suggestions!
 

MountainGoat

Club Treasurer
Staff member
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Jul 4, 2008
Messages
3,053
Location
Evergreen, CO
Brilliant! :)
 

LARGEONE

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2007
Messages
2,852
Location
Broomfield, CO
Looking so good Martin!
 

MDH33

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
7,681
Location
Trapped in a corn field
It's all about the small victories and tiny steps for me on this project. I just don't have the time, money or space to go all in on a full resto. And I`m enjoying driving this thing too much to tear into it any deeper at this point.


Finally got the reverse light operational. Replaced the housing and bulb with a new unit and led bulb. OEM is pretty dim. Wasn't getting power to it though. New unit has a separate ground, so rewired a new ground, but still no power. Went hunting for the switch underneath only to learn its easily accessible on the steering column... the column shift linkage actuates it on the 69 and the switch was misaligned and sticking. Adjusted and cleaned it and all is well.

i-HCn73Vf-M.jpg


I got the 40 out on the highway yesterday for an extended run at 65-70 to see how the cooling system held. Stayed nice and cool and didn't spike too bad when I got onto the 2 lane and stopped to shut it off. 👍

Only issue was that I noticed the front hubs were flinging a little oil/grease. Already have front and rear rebuild kits coming from cruiser outfitters, that's next. Also have a broken stud on the rear, so will replace that while the axle is out.

i-GCt5HSG-M.jpg


Need to find a replacement for those chevy wheels. Can't decide if I should go with oem 15's and hubcaps, city racer 16`s, or maybe swap the 16" 70 series wagon wheels off the 60 onto the 40? 🤔 definitely going to do an OME 2.5" lift too. Stock springs are flat. And what about tires? 😉
 

Jenny Cruiser

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Nov 22, 2006
Messages
1,168
Location
North of Hell
15s and hubcaps gets my vote!
 
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