MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Not really part of my build, but i`ll add it here anyway. I was stoked to get those FJ40 plates for the Minnesota '69, so I checked on FJ60 availability, why not?
got 'em!
got 'em!
Minnesota 40
- Thread starter MDH33
- Start date
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
Also broke the plastic T handle for the driver seat when I removed it. Doh! They were only used 67-69 and unobtanium. Passenger was already broken.
Anyone else with a 67-69 have a good replacement solution? They are brittle and I don't think glue is going to cut it.
3D printing?
Probably not enough 67-69 40 's in existence to justify a plastic mold manufacturing run.
That screams for a brass wing-nut type faucet handle from a non-glamor faucet (like a hot water heater drain valve). I would troll Lowes or Home Depot (or link below) until you find one that looks nice, and then figure out how to make it work. Could a 3D-printed one work?
60wag
Rising Sun Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2005
- Messages
- 2,603
one of these knobs might work, drill out the threads and add a set screw:
www.mcmaster.com
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Thanks Steve and Bruce, good ideas! I`ll modify something to work. 
gr8fulabe
Rising Sun Member
I don't recall who, but someone on Mud is making nice knockoffs of that handle. Start doing some searches, or asking around!
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
You're *the* Iowa Cruiser guy. It's actually kind of a shame if you do ever escape Iowa that both "FJ40" and "FJ60" Iowa vanity plates will only ever end up on your garage wall instead of on trucks, though.Not really part of my build, but i`ll add it here anyway. I was stoked to get those FJ40 plates for the Minnesota '69, so I checked on FJ60 availability, why not?
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Tank and seats reinstalled with correct TEQ lap belts. Everything working great. Onto the cooling system!
simps80
Rising Sun Member
Nice Martin
Did you already have the red belts?
I need a full set
Did you already have the red belts?
I need a full set
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
No, it came with a set of 1963 vw belts that might have been dealer installed. They were brown. No belts in back. I'm searching for another set for the jump seats.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Been away for several weekends in a row, but got some work done on the 40 today. Installed the new cooling system. New water pump, radiator, thermostat and housing, hoses, 6 blade fan and overflow res. Once the fipg sets up I'll fill and flush and see if it still runs, and hopefully no more leaks!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
She`s running great. Nice and cool and no leaks!
On to the brakes and front axle service.
On to the brakes and front axle service.
wesintl
Moderator
looks fantastic minus those hose clamps 
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Ha! I knew someone would notice.looks fantastic minus those hose clamps
I have almost all of the original double wire, but sor had that kit with all the hoses plus the clamps (which seem pretty tough and are smooth inside). I went the easy route.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Also broke the plastic T handle for the driver seat when I removed it. Doh! They were only used 67-69 and unobtanium. Passenger was already broken.
Anyone else with a 67-69 have a good replacement solution? They are brittle and I don't think glue is going to cut it.
3D printing?
Probably not enough 67-69 40 's in existence to justify a plastic mold manufacturing run.
one of these knobs might work, drill out the threads and add a set screw:
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Thanks Steve and Bruce, good ideas! I`ll modify something to work.
Follow up. I found a 35mm black phenolic knob with a M10x1.50 brass insert on McMaster Carr very similar to the teardrop knob I used to replace the knob on the pto.
Seems like this will work great. More durable and less likely to snag on when climbing in and out.
I used my M10x1.50 die to add threads to release pin/post. Knob screwed on tight. No need for set screw anymore.
Works great!
Thanks again for the suggestions!
Brilliant! 
rover67
Rising Sun Member
beautiful nails Martin.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Looking so good Martin!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
It's all about the small victories and tiny steps for me on this project. I just don't have the time, money or space to go all in on a full resto. And I`m enjoying driving this thing too much to tear into it any deeper at this point.
Finally got the reverse light operational. Replaced the housing and bulb with a new unit and led bulb. OEM is pretty dim. Wasn't getting power to it though. New unit has a separate ground, so rewired a new ground, but still no power. Went hunting for the switch underneath only to learn its easily accessible on the steering column... the column shift linkage actuates it on the 69 and the switch was misaligned and sticking. Adjusted and cleaned it and all is well.
I got the 40 out on the highway yesterday for an extended run at 65-70 to see how the cooling system held. Stayed nice and cool and didn't spike too bad when I got onto the 2 lane and stopped to shut it off.
Only issue was that I noticed the front hubs were flinging a little oil/grease. Already have front and rear rebuild kits coming from cruiser outfitters, that's next. Also have a broken stud on the rear, so will replace that while the axle is out.
Need to find a replacement for those chevy wheels. Can't decide if I should go with oem 15's and hubcaps, city racer 16`s, or maybe swap the 16" 70 series wagon wheels off the 60 onto the 40?
definitely going to do an OME 2.5" lift too. Stock springs are flat. And what about tires?
Finally got the reverse light operational. Replaced the housing and bulb with a new unit and led bulb. OEM is pretty dim. Wasn't getting power to it though. New unit has a separate ground, so rewired a new ground, but still no power. Went hunting for the switch underneath only to learn its easily accessible on the steering column... the column shift linkage actuates it on the 69 and the switch was misaligned and sticking. Adjusted and cleaned it and all is well.
I got the 40 out on the highway yesterday for an extended run at 65-70 to see how the cooling system held. Stayed nice and cool and didn't spike too bad when I got onto the 2 lane and stopped to shut it off.
Only issue was that I noticed the front hubs were flinging a little oil/grease. Already have front and rear rebuild kits coming from cruiser outfitters, that's next. Also have a broken stud on the rear, so will replace that while the axle is out.
Need to find a replacement for those chevy wheels. Can't decide if I should go with oem 15's and hubcaps, city racer 16`s, or maybe swap the 16" 70 series wagon wheels off the 60 onto the 40?
definitely going to do an OME 2.5" lift too. Stock springs are flat. And what about tires? 
Jenny Cruiser
Hard Core 4+
15s and hubcaps gets my vote!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
My vote too. But having a hard time finding tires in the size i want for those 15x5.5 rims! Must have patience I guess.