Minnesota 40

[nakman]

that looks really good Martin! and nice work on those seats!

 

[MDH33]

Holy shit that looks like an amazing truck.

that looks really good Martin! and nice work on those seats!

Thanks guys, yeah, its a pretty solid old 40. I`m itching to lift it, get wheels, tires, fun stuff... but still a lot of baselining to go. Seats were super gross, so those got moved up the list.

 

[rckhound]

That thing is super clean inside. Usually the paints all worn and they are beat to hell.

 

[MDH33]

I ordered a set of replacement tail light brackets from Man a Fre / btb. They were a little more spendy than the other repros I found, but they are heavy duty and powder coated. I need to get the back side of the rear cross member cleaned up before I bolt them on.

 

[MDH33]

I had the afternoon off due to rain. I made some room in the garage to work on the 40 indoors since it will be immobilized while I work on the head and cooling system. Decided to go ahead and drain and pull the fuel tank while the interior is out to check the condition under it and clean it up. Notorious spot for rot, so I was fearing the worst. Luckily it was just full of red desert dust and debris and the corrosion wasn`t too bad. (Edit: forgot to add, I found the fourth and final missing clip for the rear heater under the tank!)

Gave it a good scrub down and its looking better. Fuel had removed some paint and there's surface corrosion, but nothing terrible. Any suggestions on what to treat it with before I put it back together? I don't want to repaint, but just stop the rust from getting bad. Could do fluid film, but that stuff kind of stinks for interior use.

The fuel tank is in good shape. Will probably put some POR15 on the bottom before it goes back in.

 

[rover67]

still shocked at how solid that truck is

 

[MDH33]

still shocked at how solid that truck is

Hey Marco, Thanks! would you pull that trans cover and scrub it if you were at this point? I`m considering it.
What would you treat the surface rust and bare steel with?

 

[rover67]

I haven't tried to remove light surface ruts like you have but I have seen quite a few folks use like a green scotch bright pad to buff it off somewhat being careful not to get to much into the paint.. after that you might try some metal prep to try and passivate the surface a bit... For the bare metal I would passivate the surface with a metal prep for sure, then paint. Not sure if I'd pull the trans cover off.. I guess it depends on how deep yo u want to dive into it? If you pulled it off you could treat any rust where it meets the tub, then goop it up when putting it back together.

Search results for: 'metal prep'

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not sure what the metal prep would do to the paint, but probably not much??

I also like spraying some kind of waxy, oily, whatever coating n parts that are exposed to road grime, maybe its a placebo lol. I think some folks like fluid film or other products like it, I used Cosmoline for the 40.. it was pretty nasty stuff but seemed like it did the job in a way that made me feel warm and fuzzy..

 

[MDH33]

Thanks Marco. I don't own a paint gun, but I guess I could get a can of color match just to touch up the floor to keep the flash rust from forming after metal prep.

 

[SteveH]

I'd use spray Lithium grease, wiped into those rust spots under the tank. Virtually odorless after the carrier evaporates. Leaves a thin greasy film, which is what you're after for long term protection. Easy to wipe off in the future if needed.

Use the rest of the can on your door latches, window winders, hood latches, etc.

 

[MDH33]

I'd use spray Lithium grease, wiped into those rust spots under the tank. Virtually odorless after the carrier evaporates. Leaves a thin greasy film, which is what you're after for long term protection. Easy to wipe off in the future if needed.

Use the rest of the can on your door latches, window winders, hood latches, etc.

That sounds like the ticket for under the tank and some of those interior seams. 👍

 

[DaveInDenver]

I also like spraying some kind of waxy, oily, whatever coating n parts that are exposed to road grime, maybe its a placebo lol. I think some folks like fluid film or other products like it, I used Cosmoline for the 40.. it was pretty nasty stuff but seemed like it did the job in a way that made me feel warm and fuzzy..

Cosmoline for that warm and fuzzy AK47 scent. Also the long time bee's knees for protection. Well Cosmoline or boiled linseed oil.

FWIW I used to use Fluid Film and perhaps Martin will agree it did an OK job of keeping rust at bay. I've since moved to stuff called Wool Wax, which is just the same thing (lanolin) but thicker.

You might find this test interesting: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/dog-tag-rust-provention-test.242919/#post-3876252

But there's a another option called CorrosionX. I think it might work better but is too expensive IMO to use for annual undercoating. Plus instead of smelling like a lamb farm your truck smells like a weird peanut butter grease sort of thing. It's got an odd smell.

https://www.corrosionx.com/products/corrosionx

Or the classic that people have been using LPS on the inside of their steel bike frames forever. I used LPS 4 on the REEB and it was still there when I had it re-powdercoated after 5 years. They had to cook it out I guess after sandblasting.

https://www.itwprobrands.com/category-list/corrosion-inhibitors

 

[MDH33]

Got the driver seat done today. Turned out ok. Those seat adjuster tracks were a pain. They bolt on over the fabric and have a trim piece and a strip of plexiglass that share the same tiny screws as the fabric. I installed those wrong a couple of times before figuring it out.

Will reinstall the tank and seats tomorrow since I have the day off.

Seems like there should be a strip of felt or rubber between the tool box lid and seat frame. (?) Otherwise its just metal on metal and not very tight when clamped down.

 

[Romer]

Doing a great job Martin

 

[MDH33]

Doing a great job Martin

Thanks Ken. I hope to bring it out for a 40's Only Run someday. Glad that run is being kept alive.

 

[MDH33]

Wired up the new tail lights. Had to make rubber gaskets for between the brackets and cones, but they turned out well and work perfectly.

Installed the newly upholstered driver seat and jump seats.

Passenger seat has to wait. Painting the tank and need to get that installed.

Anyone have some of that funky edge that goes around the seams? Mine was missing.

 

[MDH33]

Also broke the plastic T handle for the driver seat when I removed it. Doh! They were only used 67-69 and unobtanium. Passenger was already broken.

Anyone else with a 67-69 have a good replacement solution? They are brittle and I don't think glue is going to cut it.
3D printing?

Probably not enough 67-69 40 's in existence to justify a plastic mold manufacturing run.

 

[60wag]

what size is the hole in it?

 

[MDH33]

The shaft that goes into it is 3/8, or about 9.5 mm

 

[MDH33]

Also helped my friend out Saturday with the 2 crusty 60`s. Unfortunately, they both have rusty fuel tanks, so we're trying to find a cheap local solution since oem is nla.