Fj45 it finally happend

[rckhound]

Fyithe brass bushing from cruiser outfitters needed some massaging OD and ID for use.

 

[aprosise]

This went so well, I may go the same route on my 40 instead of Saginaw!

 

[rckhound]

Does anyone know where I can get a 70 series drag ling and tie rod? Need to source that to finish this stuff up.

 

[DanS]

Does anyone know where I can get a 70 series drag ling and tie rod? Need to source that to finish this stuff up.

Onur. (beno)

Super easy.

EDIT--I used a custom relay rod on ours. 10/10 would do again. I think I bought it from front range off road.

Dan

 

[subzali]

How are you adapting your 70 series tie rod to your 40 series arms? Did you do FJ60 knuckle conversion?

 

[OilHammer]

The radiator will need to be shifted slightly to the passenger side and the driver side parking light will need some modification to clear the steering box.

Yep. I was wondering if you placed that knowing where everything fit in the end. For that very reason, I moved mine back just a hair from where you put yours, as I didn't want to trim the bib at all. I had to notch the shock tower a bit more than that slight grind you put in it, but mine has held up now for ~9yrs or something, so I assume the tower is stout enough. I don't have bib lights though, so I might still have had an issue clearing those. Photo of mine near the bottom http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/which-truck-to-put-13bt-into.60600/page-8

Link wise, I did mine twice. The first go around, I put the 70 axles in, but had factory steering. I just cut the original drag link and tapered it to pop inside a 60 link. http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/which-truck-to-put-13bt-into.60600/page-5 Welded the two up and ran that at Tellico for a couple years. Yours would just be the inverse of that, so easy peasy. When I finally got around to putting the 60 box in, I just used a 60 link and cut length to fit. Seems like I recall doing an inner sleeve where the weld is, but I would have to dig back into the mud build thread. Too many years back!

 

[rckhound]

Yep. I was wondering if you placed that knowing where everything fit in the end. For that very reason, I moved mine back just a hair from where you put yours, as I didn't want to trim the bib at all. I had to notch the shock tower a bit more than that slight grind you put in it, but mine has held up now for ~9yrs or something, so I assume the tower is stout enough. I don't have bib lights though, so I might still have had an issue clearing those.

Link wise, I did mine twice. The first go around, I put the 70 axles in, but had factory steering. I just cut the original drag link and tapered it to pop inside a 60 link. Welded the two up and ran that at Tellico for a couple years. When I finally got around to putting the 60 box in, I just used a 60 link and cut length to fit. Seems like I recall doing an inner sleeve where the weld is, but I would have to dig back into the mud build thread. Too many years back!

So the second time around you just used a 60 series drag link at the pitman arm and had a relay rod made for the correct length? Also I am not sure what you are refering to when you mentioned the inner sleeve where the weld is?

 

[OilHammer]

Updated my other post with some links that might help.
I made a 40 to 70 hybrid link the first time. Later, I made it an all 60 link but had to shorten it some IIRC. I just found a piece of pipe that nearly fit inside the two cut ends of 60 link and turned it down with a drill press or something to get it to pound in. You leave a small gap between the two 60 halves, and fill that in with weld. You can plug weld the sleeve too if you want, but I don't think I did that.

I may have misunderstood part of your question though. Are you needing a tie rod and a drag link/relay rod customed up? the 60 and 70 tie rods are huge compared to the 40's....highly recommend upgrading if you can.

 

[subzali]

May be too late now, but I still feel like this is a good spot for the FJ60 box, assuming you can do without the stock shock towers (I did Ford towers, see my thread). Didn't have to move or cut the bib or radiator support with a spacer plate on the frame, just the fender.

 

[aprosise]

The radiator support only hits the power steering box by a 1/4"... So I think he can even get away with making some slotted holes. It actually fits very well.

Matt, it looks like you welded a plate on the outside of the frame also... We did not do that...Only on the inside.... and there's that 1/4"

 

[rckhound]

I actually mounted the radiator support today and is seems like it will only need slight grinding to fit.

 

[rckhound]

The bib needs no modification.

 

[rckhound]

More pics

 

[rckhound]

Side shot

 

[rckhound]

Also got all the toyota motor mounts back in!

 

[rckhound]

Loaded up!

Ready to head to Classic Cruisers tomorrow for body and paint.

 

[simps80]

nice work!
not sure how I missed the earlier posts..great to see this coming to life!!

 

[rover67]

yeah this will be rad. did you find a bed floor yet?

 

[rckhound]

Not yet. There is a mini truck one down there that might work. Otherwise I am working on importing a brand new floor.

 

[rckhound]

Well got it dropped off and the body and paint guy was excited. Thats always good news!