Fiona, the blowed up 80 build

[jps8460]

Somewhere in between those last two steps I inspected the crank and bearing. The crank is in near perfect condition. I’ve seen brand new $1200 racing cranks that were in worse shape than this. I did have one bearing that had a deep flaw. I’ll replace that one.

all oil clearances are in spec, so it’s getting put back together with all main bearings except #2

 

[jps8460]

I moved on and started inspecting Pistons and bores. The Pistons all had very minor scuffing on the major thrust side. Nothing noteworthy though.

piston to bore oil clearances were all on the high side, but well within spec. Boy do I love my ultrasonic cleaner.

ring lands all look great. Piston 6 showed the most scuffing, but insignificant by anyone’s standards.

I opted for a new set of standard Toyota rings. 3 top compression rings showed signs of wear, so I figured I’d seal those jugs up for a few hundred thousand more miles.

 

[jps8460]

I need to inspect the main bolts, rod bolts, rod bearings, bores, clearances, and wrist pin bushing and bore oil clearances next.

I’m ordering most of my bottom end stuff tomorrow.

after my rings and replacement bearing, and timing chain stuff shows up, I should be able to get the bottom end together shortly.

then it’s finish inspecting the head and cams and slapping them back together.

I went ahead and ordered a new timing cover and oil pump from @cruiseroutfit

 

[fjc man]

In your pictures of the pistons, your oil control rings looked stuck / compressed. Definitely won’t hurt to have new ones. I did see they’re on the list. It’s coming along nicely.

 

[Notyourmomslx450]

I have some assembly lube doing nothing but taking up space if you want it.

 

[jps8460]

In your pictures of the pistons, your oil control rings looked stuck / compressed. Definitely won’t hurt to have new ones. I did see they’re on the list. It’s coming along nicely.

They were actually free on all Pistons, but yea, they’ve definitely seen better days.

I have some assembly lube doing nothing but taking up space if you want it.

ooo I always like more lube

 

[White Stripe]

Have you thought about doing some porting on the head? It's a little time consuming but if you have the time you might pick up 20hp or more. I ported a 3vzfe motor and it was very noticeable above 3k rpm. I just used cheap Chinese carbide bits. It was very inexpensive to do.

 

[jps8460]

Have you thought about doing some porting on the head? It's a little time consuming but if you have the time you might pick up 20hp or more. I ported a 3vzfe motor and it was very noticeable above 3k rpm. I just used cheap Chinese carbide bits. It was very inexpensive to do.

The thought crossed my mind, a basic bowl blend and short side touch up, but I don’t have time as it is. I’m sure this head could benefit from it a lot. I guess she’ll just remain a stocker.

 

[LARGEONE]

You are a bad-ass! I can barely tackle an oil change these days!

 

[coax]

@jps8460 If you have any need for some random parts in the event you need them; still have these. Free. Would send them to you flat rate box.

FREE - Bend, OR - 1FZ Parts for rebuild (No Spring Spacers)

Have the following misc bits left over from my engine rebuild. A few things I double ordered (doh) and others i ordered spares and just weren't used. Can anyone make use of this? Not looking to split it up, I'll just toss in a small box and ship (I'm in OR). All parts i got from partsouq as...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jps8460]

@jps8460 If you have any need for some random parts in the event you need them; still have these. Free. Would send them to you flat rate box.

FREE - Bend, OR - 1FZ Parts for rebuild (No Spring Spacers)

Have the following misc bits left over from my engine rebuild. A few things I double ordered (doh) and others i ordered spares and just weren't used. Can anyone make use of this? Not looking to split it up, I'll just toss in a small box and ship (I'm in OR). All parts i got from partsouq as...

forum.ih8mud.com

Man, thanks for the offer. I’m doing good on parts so far. I’m a really good hoarder lol.

 

[jps8460]

I made some good progress this week. I got the bottom end cleaned and put back together.

I found a couple of interesting things. #1. The “block” section of the service manual has a copy paste error. It states that the rod and main bearings have the same thickness “0.0983” or whatever it is. In reality the rod bearing thickness is much thinner, more like 0.0693 ish. #2. The OEM engine gasket kit shorted me an oil cooler gasket.

After scratching my head for a min, I figured everything out.

I found all of my rod oil clearances to be right around 0.002, so perfectly acceptable.

all of my rod bolts and main bolts were in spec for diameter and reused.

Once the bottom end was together, I started in on inspecting the head/valvetrain more on that later

 

[jps8460]

I got the bottom end buttoned up this weekend. Getting things functionally clean is such an ass beating. Anyhow everything went well.

A couple of notes:
1. 1 tube of black toyota FIPG is just the perfect amount for 1 - 1fzfe.
2. The oil pump gear is driven off of a gear that sloppily fits the crank snout. I would imagine that if you don’t get the balance pulley bolt tightened to spec, it makes a racket and eventually shears the woodruff key. This would lead to 0 oil pressure. I gave it a preliminary whack with the 1/2” impact. I’ll probably whip up a tool to hold the pulley when finishing the job. The slop is there to facilitate matching up the drive splines for the oil pump.
3. I found out that I’m missing one water pump stud (I bought this as a “non-dressed” long block. So o had to order it from Mr T.
4. The relief valve in my oil cooler was pretty coked up and did not move easily. I disassembled it, cleaned it and put a new spring in it.
5. My oil pump outer gerotor was borderline on OD and had some scratches in it. So, I put a new pump on from Mr. K
anyhow, not much to report, just a lot of tedious cleaning and gluing stuff together

onto the head!

 

[jps8460]

I started getting the head whipped into shape.

I cleaned and lapped all of the valves. I couldn’t find my dykem, so I used gear pattern compound. It made it trickier to see the contact after lapping, but it did the trick. I was expecting a simple clean up, so I lapped with 320 grit silicon-carbide.
All of the margins were fine. The contact on the exhaust valves were all pretty wide (a couple were barely out of spect, but it will be ok for my needs.

The intake valves are all dialed, no concerns there.

I just have 1 exhaust valve that won’t clean up. We have a bin full of them at work, so I’m going to steal one and see if I can get it lapped into shape. If not, I’ll just take the whole head in for a proper valve job.

Does anyone in the club have and pilots and 45 and 70 degree stones they want to bum me?

anyhow, everything is looking good with guide clearances and valve stem diameters.

 

[rover67]

I bet the right stuff is in the valve grind kit me and Drew used for the race car. LMK if you need it. It’s pretty backwoods but it works

 

[jps8460]

I bet the right stuff is in the valve grind kit me and Drew used for the race car. LMK if you need it. It’s pretty backwoods but it works

Maybe, I was half joking, using stones without being able to dress them in a grinder makes me nervous lol. I’m sure I’ll get it figured out.
I looked back after the post, this is the exhaust valve that had excessive valve lash, so something is up.... not sure which came first chicken or egg.

 

[rover67]

we have the setup to dress them also but it is still a shadetree setup lol

 

[FunkyYota]

Real thorough. Nice!

Maybe I missed it, but did you find the source of the knock? Honestly those bearings look fine.

Here are the mains I took out of a Ford 390FE a couple weeks ago. Yours look new comparatively.

 

[jps8460]

Real thorough. Nice!

Maybe I missed it, but did you find the source of the knock? Honestly those bearings look fine.

Here are the mains I took out of a Ford 390FE a couple weeks ago. Yours look new comparatively.
View attachment 99367

I haven’t torn down the engine in the 80 yet. This is a long block that I had hoarded. It was a good runner with 230k on the clock.

Those puppies are shot. And discoloration on the main caps? Looks like that was about ready to catch and spin.

 

[jps8460]

Well, I got a bunch done over thanksgiving. I had to source some bolts and misc from Mr. T which held some progress up.

But, I got it close enough that it justified sorting the garage and pulling the ol’ girl in to start the tear down.

The alt nut was broken, and the plug/pig tail were is shambles. I found a clean pig tail to solder in.

The ext wire that goes to the distributor was also f’ed, and I was able to source a clean one to solder in.

Once again, I had trouble getting my torque angle meter set up and working properly. So, I just followed the manual. It basically says after torquing, put dots on the front side of the bolt head. Turn 90deg in sequence, then turn another 90. The dots should face the back.

I had to tweak the lash on a couple of valves. I got the proper lash discs today. I’ll pop those in and then button up the valve cover .

Aside from that, it’s a bunch unbolting, re-bolting, swearing, and it should be good to go.