Fiona, the blowed up 80 build

jps8460

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Hi All,

I’m not very good at build threads. I’m chipping away at this as I have time, so taking pictures is a little easier.

I got this rust free specimen from a fellow rising sun nerd.

It has what appears to be a rod knock or really bad piston slap.

I’ve ran all the normal diagnostics and have come to the conclusion that it is a worthy recipient of a heart transplant.

I’ll add more photos later.

My first project is a budget refresh on a 1fz I purchased a couple years back. I e built a few engines, but this is the first 1fz. It feels good to break out the ol engine tools.
 

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Oneops

Wincher
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Nice! I’m on a very similar path. My is krusted and rusted though.
 

jps8460

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I drove it home with a bad miss. I chased down that the initial timing was set at 18deg BTDC and number 5 plug wire was shorting out and causing the miss.

From what I could tell, the knock was bad enough that it was triggering the knock sensors and then the ECU was pulling timing. I’m guessing that’s what kept this poor girl alive.

I prodded the head, block, and accessories with my stethoscope for 15-20min. The loudest the sound got was on the left side of the engine #4 ish, just below where the head and block meet.

I’m curious to see if the excessive amount of timing squeaked a piston or F’d up a wrist pin bushing and is causing the knocking sound.

I ran the truck without belts to eliminate accessories as a potential source of the sound.

I then pulled the valve cover and poked around. The knock sounds like it’s coming from the upper side of the engine, but who knows.

Current state of the engine compartment.
 

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jps8460

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Onto the other side of the story...

This early 1fz was had from a fellow member. Since it’s out on the stand, I couldn’t help but to run down any potential issues.

Definitely not going to be a complete rebuild. This is more about giving it a clean bill of health before stabbing it into the truck.

So far the interior bits have been really clean for just over 200K miles. It had a head gasket done a while back.

So here’s what everything looks like.

I found one metal fleck and two hard plastic nubs in an otherwise spotless oil pan. The other bits fell in from scraping the deck and whatnot.

Not sure where the metal fleck came from yet. It’s magnetic....sooooo.

Turns out that the two hard plastic nubs were from the timing chain guide. More on that later.

The tensioner in this engine was different than the other two I’ve seen. This one has a ratcheting mechanism. Anybody seen one like this before?

The head inspection process is up next. And getting everything on the top end cleaned and reassembled.
 

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jps8460

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Here’s the oil pan stuff and other tid bits. Too many pics?

Also I purchased 2 #3 JIS Phillip’s for the oil pump cover bolts. 1 impact and 1 with a built in wrench flat. The all came off easily and will be reused during reassembly.

3/4” impact made quick work of the 30mm crank bolt.
 

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jps8460

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Oneops

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Waiting for that one to come back in stock.
Heavy ass motor I tried mine on stand like that and it wasn’t having it. Had to get a bigger one. Lol
 

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Notyourmomslx450

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more pics! we want more pics!
 

jps8460

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I didn’t want to lose steam.

So, I got the head disassembled and started inspecting stuff.

All of the head bolts passed inspection. All were between 0.425”-0.427”

My traditional style c-clamp spring compressor was just not working, so I picked up one of the “smack it with a hammer” style keeper removers. It works well, but it’s a little violent for my taste. To keep the valve shut, I just stuffed a rag between the valve and my bench if that makes sense.

I cleaned up the head deck good enough for a flatness check. It came in at 0.004 for Max feeler gage right across the center. So that’s all good to go.

The valve stem seals are a bit of a PITA. I’ve been using a paint can opener to pop them out.

Just visually speaking, the seats, valves and margins look exceptionally clean. The exhaust valves are really light. I’m curious if the are sodium filled. Anyone know?
 

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rover67

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i got some amazon valve seal pliers that worked real well for pulling those guys out. Want it?

i think the exhaust valves are sodium filled. I feel like i read that in the FSM somewhere.

I also stuffed a rag under the head and used the push type valve keeper remover/installer. it was awesome. I just leaned on it and popped them all out, same for install. I can ask Drew if you want to borrow it for reassembly, it was his. I think it's one of these valvemaster tools:

So the head seems good to go?
 

jps8460

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i got some amazon valve seal pliers that worked real well for pulling those guys out. Want it?

i think the exhaust valves are sodium filled. I feel like i read that in the FSM somewhere.

I also stuffed a rag under the head and used the push type valve keeper remover/installer. it was awesome. I just leaned on it and popped them all out, same for install. I can ask Drew if you want to borrow it for reassembly, it was his. I think it's one of these valvemaster tools:

So the head seems good to go?

I’d definitely take the pliers. It’s a bit of a bear to get the seals off. I’m gone all weekend.... maybe the meeting?

So far so good on the head. Going to check the guides and other surfaces, the do a little lap to see where my margins are and call it a day.
 

jps8460

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ok, text me i'll bring it. sure on the valve master? it made assembly a breeze.

Oh yea, for sure, was just spacing off I guess. I’ll take both.
 

jps8460

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Well it’s been a while, but I did some more tearing down today. I’m still blown away with the preliminaries.

I found my first beyond spec part.

My 3-4 mic is at work, so I couldn’t check Pistons or set my dial bore gauge. I did do a quick taper check and was pleased.

I’m thinking that I’ll do a quick deglaze with a dingleberry hone and possibly slap some new rings in.

I was not able to find the bore markings as shown in the manual, but it’s not going to be too hard to sort out once I grab my mic from work.

Here is the timing chain check. It passed the check for chain/gear diameter but failed the “16 link” check. It was about .012 over the Max.
 

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jps8460

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Something I’ve always done when tearing down a known good engine was to check starting and rotating torque. This gives me a ballpark for assembly. I’ll generally check this number for complete rotating assembling, and for the crank alone.

Doing so has prevented me from assembling a SBC with a slight bearing chamfer - crank fillet interference (race cranks run giant fillets most of the time). After installing a con rod I noticed a 100in-lb increase in starting torque and knew something was up.

So I saw about 110in-lbs starting and about 80 rotating.

I noticed a bit of a wear ring where the rear main seal rides. I’m wondering if I can adjust the position .050-.060 to get away from it.
 

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jps8460

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I checked the thrust clearance at each con. Rod. All was good there, everything was well in spec.

I’ve built a few engines at this point and never really fully understood connecting rod thrust clearance. I assume that this is more of a go no go Than a critical spec. I’m sure it has a lot to do with controlling oil flow/pressure. I’ve never really paid too much attention to it except to make sure that there was plenty.

Kudos to Toyota for putting a nice little inspection land on the rod. The craftsmanship in the engine is just next level for OEM.
 

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jps8460

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I pulled all of the Pistons and marked them. I had some plastigauge in my box that was about a bazillion yeas old. I figured I’d do it just for consistency, but I prefer to check oil clearance directly with a bore gauge.

After yanking the Pistons, I checked crank thrust clearance. It checked out just fine.

The bearings showed just a small amount of wear.... just amazing for 200+ Thousand miles.
 

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