DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Just a point of detail, there are several different Cerakote products. Not all of them tolerate up to 1800°F.
https://www.cerakote.com/finishes/
1FZ-FTE build
- Thread starter Corbet
- Start date
https://www.cerakote.com/finishes/
Looks real nice. I'll be looking back to this thread when I get to the assembly stage of my engine.
J1000
Rising Sun Member
Wow this is just too cool. That turbo kit looks to be very well made. I got a 100 for the V8 but part of me would rather have a turbo 80.
Truck is still at the shop in shake down mode.
The power steering gear that was on the parts truck motor was making noise so he swapped on the one from my original engine. Then the $60 NAPA high pressure hose fell apart so on went my original and new OEM ($300-ish) ordered. That was a place we tried to save a couple dollars. Lesson learned.
One valve was making a little noise so he adjusted that. Said it sounded like a sewing machine when done.
He threw the wheels back on and test drove to set the rings. Found a slight coolant leak that was fixed with a clamp adjustment.
Sounds like he will be satisfied with it sometime tomorrow and I can pick it up when schedule allows.
The power steering gear that was on the parts truck motor was making noise so he swapped on the one from my original engine. Then the $60 NAPA high pressure hose fell apart so on went my original and new OEM ($300-ish) ordered. That was a place we tried to save a couple dollars. Lesson learned.
One valve was making a little noise so he adjusted that. Said it sounded like a sewing machine when done.
He threw the wheels back on and test drove to set the rings. Found a slight coolant leak that was fixed with a clamp adjustment.
Sounds like he will be satisfied with it sometime tomorrow and I can pick it up when schedule allows.
ddelong6767
Lifted
Hey Corbet, if the other buyer for the old motor falls through let me know. On the hunt for one...
Drove the truck home yesterday. Kept it below 3000RPM for break in. Low end torque was so much better. I was able to pull a hill in 4th that it used to down shift into 2nd to climb. I’m about 600lbs light with armor stripped off so that was a factor as well.
Only concern is that the oil pressure gauge is reading lower than we would like to see. I’m going to pull the sending unit and put a mechanical gauge on it this weekend if time allows. The sending unit is new. Bill suspects that the gauge in the dash may be faulty. In all honestly it’s read this way since the tuck had 81K on it.
Only concern is that the oil pressure gauge is reading lower than we would like to see. I’m going to pull the sending unit and put a mechanical gauge on it this weekend if time allows. The sending unit is new. Bill suspects that the gauge in the dash may be faulty. In all honestly it’s read this way since the tuck had 81K on it.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
If you suspect oil pressure in the slightest I'd personally stick a mechanical gauge on there to verify how it's running at a minimum. Maybe keep it on there.
Also can debug the sender and dash gauge after you verify normal pressures in the galley or at least "calibrate it" by knowing pressures and how they correlate to dash gauge indication.
Also can debug the sender and dash gauge after you verify normal pressures in the galley or at least "calibrate it" by knowing pressures and how they correlate to dash gauge indication.
We did that initially when I bought this truck in 2007 and despite the low reading on the dash gauge it checked out with-in spec. Plan to do the same again. I have a mechanical gauge kit. Will do so before driving again.
Gauge reads strong pressure at initial start up when cold then drops at operating temp. Low viscosity break in oil is in crank case now.
Gauge reads strong pressure at initial start up when cold then drops at operating temp. Low viscosity break in oil is in crank case now.
mosdefjeff
Trail Ready
Congratulations!
Those manifolds look really nice. Very tastefully done.
I can’t wait to build mine.
Those manifolds look really nice. Very tastefully done.
I can’t wait to build mine.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
I found the OP gauge on my '95 to be pretty accurate (or at least it decently shows relative pressures, unlike the true 'idiot light' gauges in my F350), and when it read 'really low' the oil pressure was indeed really low.
My gauge definitely moves around a lot. Always has. Between just over the lower mark to about half way with the original engine. Was that way since 2007 and 81K
Initial start up on the new engine it went to 2/3 with cold oil. Once warmed up it does the same as the old. So I’m really not overly worried but will put the tester gauge on it right at the block and get actual psi readings probably Monday when time allows.
Initial start up on the new engine it went to 2/3 with cold oil. Once warmed up it does the same as the old. So I’m really not overly worried but will put the tester gauge on it right at the block and get actual psi readings probably Monday when time allows.
Finally had the time today to verify oil pressure. Holidays and weather. I’m working outdoors 
Specs per FSM, at operating temps
36-71 psi at 3000 RPM
Minimum 4.3 psi at idle
Break in oil still in crankcase. 80 miles on it since rebuild.
58 psi at cold start up. 1100 RPM
Following all at operating temp.
60 psi at 3000 RPM
55 psi at 2200 RPM
28 psi at 1100 RPM
14 psi at 600 RPM (idle)
Specs per FSM, at operating temps
36-71 psi at 3000 RPM
Minimum 4.3 psi at idle
Break in oil still in crankcase. 80 miles on it since rebuild.
58 psi at cold start up. 1100 RPM
Following all at operating temp.
60 psi at 3000 RPM
55 psi at 2200 RPM
28 psi at 1100 RPM
14 psi at 600 RPM (idle)
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Well Covid put a stop to the turbo install. Currently I’ve got about 7000 miles on the new engine. Drove it to Vegas and back a couple weeks ago. Felt like a race truck at that elevation. Looking forward to doing the turbo install here probably after the new year if I can brave the cold temps. Need to see how this next wave of potential lock downs effect business but right now it looks like I can get back on this. Hoping to do the York and Methanol injection all at the same time.
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Don’t inject Meth. It will kill you! . Haha!
. Haha!
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Do you feel the need for methanol injection at the boost levels the Joey kit offers stock? Also, just bolt that $hit on man, I can't stand it.
-Marco
-Marco
Don’t inject Meth. It will kill you!
Cures covid...
Meth is not required but cooling the intake charge should be a good thing. I’m also only going to start a 5.5psi rather than the supplied 7.25psi spring. If I’m happy there I may stick with the lower boost looking for longevity over max power.
I’ve also got to figure out how to get the truck to an exhaust shop as running it straight out the down pipe will probably be out of the question. Trailering it in the snow from my place does not sound desirable. Hoping I can rig something with some flex pipe well enough to last the 15 miles into town or tack weld something in place for the drive.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Awe COME ON Corbet! Turbos are rotary mufflers!!!!!
Nobody's gonna notice that amount of noise. If it's going out the wrong spot and will cook something go get a piece of flex pipe from Uh Oh Zone and u clamp it on.
Nobody's gonna notice that amount of noise. If it's going out the wrong spot and will cook something go get a piece of flex pipe from Uh Oh Zone and u clamp it on.
yup. a piece of flex or a booger weld job to get the exhaust off the firewall is all you need to do...
Flex has been my plan from the beginning to get it to the muffler shop. Just have to find some in this po dunk little mountain town.