1FZ-FTE build

Corbet

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Just got a photo from my builder, bottom end assembled.

B38510B9-6B43-4B5A-B424-E3B56AEC0B4B.jpeg
 

Corbet

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Also, this thread needs more pictures. I want to see:

pictures of turbo with tons of cool bits associated with it's install, pictures of the engine tore down, pictures of things like cylinder bores and packages of fresh bearings from toyota, pictures of pistons, pictures of oil pans being cut into and welded, pictures of your scribble sheet where you are calculating compression ratios with a spilled beer, etc.

C'mon Corbet.

Hard for me to post up all the tiny bags of new factory parts. Everything goes straight to the shop down in Farmington and I don’t even see most of it. I’m heading down there on Friday. Will take some more pictures then :)

But here are the new pistons.

AB506AFC-747E-4A99-A91C-C58CC69D8808.jpeg
 
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rover67

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Oh yeah that's what i'm talking about!!

Did you guys calculate the stock static compression on disassembly? What was it? Are you going to do some head combustion chamber/port cleanup work or leave it stock also?
 

Corbet

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Did you guys calculate the stock static compression on disassembly?
No
I’m not familiar with this and as to why you would need to?

Are you going to do some head combustion chamber/port cleanup work or leave it stock also?
Stock, but head got full rebuild with new Toyota parts.

The turbo system was developed to max out potential power of a completely stock system. Any performance mods could cause a lean condition as the stock fuel map won’t keep up. So my original thought of porting the head, ordering cams from Australia, messing with compression are all out the door without a piggy pack or new fuel system. Way more money than I want to throw at this. Plus the dyno test mule showed results that with a 30% drivetrain loss assumption puts power at the crank over 400 ft/lbs. That should satisfy me.

It was this or an LS swap. This should yield more power at 10,000’ and be well slightly cheaper.
 

rover67

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I typically check combustion chamber volumes and calculate compression when i'm taking a motor apart because they are rarely what they are advertised to be or even what they are "known" to be. Close sure. It's also nice to do it to baseline it. Then when you get the head back, lets say, you can CC the combustion chambers again and know exactly how much they changed due to the machining, new valves, new seats, whatever. Then you know exactly what head gasket thickness you want to run based on the decreased (usually) combustion chamber volume, new bore, and new pistons. This is very nit picky but I like data and I like knowing what number I am chasing if lets say i'm looking for "stock" compression ratios because that's what's required. It also gives you an idea of what changes the static compression ratio and what has little effect on it as you are twiddling the "knobs" per say. Also its like "stock was xx compression, the rebuild was XX compression, I run XX gas with no issues, run xx gas and get slight knock with timing at xx, blah blah blah". Yanno, the learning part.

Anyhow, I personally also like to get combustion chamber volumes equal across the board as well as at a minimum clean up the castings to make sure there are no potential hot spots. BUT I bet that head is pretty nice from the factory so that's probably not really a thing. You might be splitting hairs i dunno. Stuff like deshrouding valves is usually pretty easy (if you have time) but might fall into the making it flow better is bad for the tune category.

But yeah, not everybody does all that especially if you are paying, since it gets expensive.... I mean that's all labor. and it is a lot of labor. it's also not necessary especially in this type of application where it's not a high horsepower deal and you aren't capable of doing any tuning. BUT when you are trying to stay ahead of spark knock sometimes it's nice to know.

So just have him build it, set timing conservatively and use higher octane pump gas and guess it'll work since it has for many others. I mean it'll work. Yeah I'm just too geeky about it all and get excited about engine builds and like learning from folks.

Are you going to get it balanced?

AS far as LS swapping goes.. I won't really go there. This is a neat thing I love the project, I may even do it one day, but cost for me would be higher for sure to go this route. BUT i need a carb cert if i'm going turbo... so ya gotta pay. That's where the value is in Joey's system IMHO. Well that and it's a nice package with good parts that look damned sexy and requires no fab work and is a good starting point.

Im stoked for this Corbet. Real stoked. I think it's gonna be rad.
 

Corbet

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Didn’t get it balanced as in Bill’s experience the 1FZ is pretty true from the factory. I think he weighed all the rods. Either way he didn’t see it worth the time. Crank came out of the old engine still in spec (199K). So other than the block bore and light machine work the engine as a whole did not need much.

I’m definitely trying to keep the labor down so all that compression calculations would have cost me a fortune. I could still port/polish the head but then run a softer spring in the blow off valve to be safe. Not sure if the end result would be much different. Joey has nearly got the meth injection done and I plan to get that as well. I’m disappointed he has not brought an A2W intercooler to market as originally planned. That is what I want. So maybe I’ll have to do that part. I still have some detonation fears.

I know where your going on the LS swap but I was not allowed to do it myself. Had to be turn key. And there was the cost. Marianne was not going allow me to disappear into the garage for months again to do an engine swap. So this allows a quick swap of old for new. And I’ll install the turbo post break-in on the new engine.

In the end what I really want is a reliable truck over max power. And something that is relatively easy to service on the road. Not sure what would scare a random line mechanic more? Added turbo to OEM engine or transplanted LS. Either way it will be a surprise.
 

rover67

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Only other thing i'll mention which this guys is probably doing already is figure out where the ring gaps are and make sure they are where you want them to be. I'd personally open them up some from stock since you are there but to each his own.

Anyways, its gonna be rad!!!!!!!! Keep posting more pictures!
 

rover67

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And to be clear on the rings, there's probably no need with your setup but I like insurance and go nutso after I promised I wouldn't sometimes.
 

Corbet

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Only other thing i'll mention which this guys is probably doing already is figure out where the ring gaps are and make sure they are where you want them to be. I'd personally open them up some from stock since you are there but to each his own.

Anyways, its gonna be rad!!!!!!!! Keep posting more pictures!

Bill doing that, standard practice for him.
 

DaveInDenver

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Oil pan welding
Is the flare fitting nickel-plated aluminum or something? Welding oily cast aluminum is a real pain, eh? I'd probably would've gone with the brazing approach but if it seals and doesn't crack you're probably golden.
 

60wag

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This looks great. Can't wait to see it all in truck, it's cool that you can still fit a York in there.
 
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