What have you done to your rig today?

[Johnny Utah]

I posted this in another thread but wanted to post it up here so more people would see it. I went over the AA Performance Muffler in Englewood yesterday and had Scott and his guys replace my old rusty factory muffler with a new stainless unit from Magnaflow. I found a thread on here where some of the RS members had recommended Scott's shop so I gave them a call and made an appointment.
My old muffler was rusted all the way through in a spot or two and was slowly getting louder and starting to rattle. I called Scott and told him about my problem and he knew all about it. Said its very common on these trucks (with the muffler) but the rest of the system is usually good because its stainless. He said we could go OEM Toyota or with a Magnaflow... I can't remember but I think he said he stocks one other brand also. Anyway, I decided to try the Magnaflow and he recommended that we leave the resonator in place for noise control. When I got there, he put it up on the lift, said that everything looked great except the muffler. About 50 minutes later the truck was done.
The new muffler sounds great and the work was exceptional. Inside the cabin the noise is only slightly, and I mean slightly, louder that stock. Hardly noticeable. Outside the exhaust note at the tailpipe is a little deeper than stock but still not loud. I'm happy with the magnaflow and having left the resonator in place.
I can't say enough good things about Scott and his shop. Thanks to RS for being a great resource.

Pics:

 

[OHUZJ100]

Did Rotors and Pads all around+ repack wheel bearings. Learned a lot doing this service my self and it was nice to see axle components with my own eyes and get my own hands on Em'.

I like this fish scale for wheel bearings cause the rubber piece stays at the maximum load so you don't have to guess where you measurement was on a gauge: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777GX5BG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This weekend I drove it!

 

[Hulk]

Got my new reman/OEM alternator in today.

@RayRay27 Are there options for the alternator? Is there a HO version? Just curious if you explored any options here.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Did Rotors and Pads all around+ repack wheel bearings. Learned a lot doing this service my self and it was nice to see axle components with my own eyes and get my own hands on Em'.
View attachment 91797
I like this fish scale for wheel bearings cause the rubber piece stays at the maximum load so you don't have to guess where you measurement was on a gauge: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777GX5BG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This weekend I drove it!
View attachment 91798

Looks like a nice size shop and setup!

Did you use new C-clips on the CV's, check gap was super tight on them, and grease the spindle bearings?

 

[OHUZJ100]

Looks like a nice size shop and setup!

Did you use new C-clips on the CV's, check gap was super tight on them, and grease the spindle bearings?

The shop is Jimmy and Chase🤘

I was able to do the things you mentioned. I don't remember what size the rings were but almost anything that states non reusable in FSM was replaced.

The part that was most impressive was the tolerance on hub flange to the CV splines. Literally no play! so I didn't replace the flange this go.

 

[Inukshuk]

For the 80:
1) Installed new stop lamp switch (brake light and cruise control circuits). Why this matters: the 1993 with cruise control has a two circuit switch. One is for the brake lights. The other is for cruise control. The brake light part is robust. The cruise control part is a bent metal contact - lasted a mere 300,000+ miles (337,000 today but it started going out more than a year ago). What happens is when the metal is worn out, the cruise-control-canceling circuit is "always-on." $63 at Stevinson. Aftermarket is available but its a critical safety item so I went OEM. (84340-06010) If your 80 cruise lights up but then blinks and shuts off, this is probably why. Easy to replace once you contort under the dash.



2) Center Diff Lock indicator light switch. Trouble with your CDL coming on? Does your CDL indicator light flicker or not glow bright. This is why. Beck-Arnley PN 201-1788 is a direct replacement. $15.00 at Amazon. Now its bright and crisp!

To get to it you either need a 27mm angled ratcheting box end wrench or disconnect the transmission cross-member (I loosened the driver's side and removed bolts entirely on the passenger side - use a jack stand and floor jack) to lower it about 2 inches and then I got a 27MM socket on the 1/2 breaker bar in there.



3) Intake manifold/"fuel injection" bypass coolant hose in the GX470. Now all coolant hoses are new.

4) changed the oil in the 80.

5) replaced the failing driver's seatbelt webbing. Oddly, both are for a 1993 but the good used one I had would not bolt up so I swapped the webbing. Anyone want a free drivers side seat-belt mechanism with no webbing? Will apparently fit some 80's. I used wire to keep the mechanism from spinning and another wire to help pull the loop back through. The loop is locked in place with a small plastic bar.

 

[RayRay27]

@RayRay27 Are there options for the alternator? Is there a HO version? Just curious if you explored any options here.

Like a higher amperage output? There is a thread on MUD detailing the install of a 150 amp alternator from a sequoia. I skimmed through it and didn't really get a warm and fuzzy about it because you have to get a new mounting bracket and do a few other mods.

150 Amp Sequoia Alternator install with Photoman Bracket (Part 1 of 3)

After my 94 FZJ80's alternator gave me a charge light and the "Christmas Tree" and barely doing 12V, I spent a whopping $22 and bought some new Toyota brushes. Alas, despite new brushes, it refused to reliably generate power which meant the voltage regulator/rectifier assembly had given up the...

forum.ih8mud.com

The alternator I took out was the original and has done just fine in its 27 years. I didn't see any point in reinventing the wheel. I don't have a bunch of lights, inverters or items that would really require a bunch of additional juice.

 

[RayRay27]

For the 80:
1) Installed new stop lamp switch (brake light and cruise control circuits). Why this matters: the 1993 with cruise control has a two circuit switch. One is for the brake lights. The other is for cruise control. The brake light part is robust. The cruise control part is a bent metal contact - lasted a mere 300,000+ miles (337,000 today but it started going out more than a year ago). What happens is when the metal is worn out, the cruise-control-canceling circuit is "always-on." $63 at Stevinson. Aftermarket is available but its a critical safety item so I went OEM. (84340-06010) If your 80 cruise lights up but then blinks and shuts off, this is probably why. Easy to replace once you contort under the dash.

View attachment 91803View attachment 91805View attachment 91804

2) Center Diff Lock indicator light switch. Trouble with your CDL coming on? Does your CDL indicator light flicker or not glow bright. This is why. Beck-Arnley PN 201-1788 is a direct replacement. $15.00 at Amazon. Now its bright and crisp!

To get to it you either need a 27mm angled ratcheting box end wrench or disconnect the transmission cross-member (I loosened the driver's side and removed bolts entirely on the passenger side - use a jack stand and floor jack) to lower it about 2 inches and then I got a 27MM socket on the 1/2 breaker bar in there.

View attachment 91800

3) Intake manifold/"fuel injection" bypass coolant hose in the GX470. Now all coolant hoses are new.

4) changed the oil in the 80.

5) replaced the failing driver's seatbelt webbing. Oddly, both are for a 1993 but the good used one I had would not bolt up so I swapped the webbing. Anyone want a free drivers side seat-belt mechanism with no webbing? Will apparently fit some 80's. I used wire to keep the mechanism from spinning and another wire to help pull the loop back through. The loop is locked in place with a small plastic bar.

View attachment 91801View attachment 91806View attachment 91802

I need to do both the CDL switch indicator and the cruise control. I'm having the same issues. I got the new alternator in but didn't have time to do the indicator switch. I got the nrwCDL indicator switch sitting on the bench.

 

[Inukshuk]

I need to do both the CDL switch indicator and the cruise control. I'm having the same issues. I got the new alternator in but didn't have time to do the indicator switch. I got the nrwCDL indicator switch sitting on the bench.

Do it! Let me know if I can be of assistance.

 

[DomOfTheDead]

I bought an 1996 FJ80. And put a battery in it.

the truck is a little rough around the edges; 260k, no lockers, dry rot tires, needs brakes, dead battery, front seats are beat up but it runs pretty good and my plans are for hard usage. Huge thank you to @DanielChase for the lead, negotiating and help getting the truck home! Now to get it through emissions....

 

[OHUZJ100]

I bought an 1996 FJ80. And put a battery in it. View attachment 91819the truck is a little rough around the edges; 260k, no lockers, dry rot tires, needs brakes, dead battery, front seats are beat up but it runs pretty good and my plans are for hard usage. Huge thank you to @DanielChase for the lead, negotiating and help getting the truck home! Now to get it through emissions....

Huge like that is so sick yesssss!

 

[J1000]

Lmk if you need to borrow my cat to pass emissions! Nice score!

 

[Old40Dog]

More love yesterday for the 40. Getting the new Yaesu installed into the dash.

 

[bh4rnnr]

Giggity

The boys at Slee putting a new COMEUP winch on the 4runner.

Photo Credit: Jackson Philby.

 

[Cruisertrash]

@DomOfTheDead I recognize that truck 😉

Same spot I got my 79 Toyota Corona from a couple weeks ago. Glad somebody took it home.

 

[Inukshuk]

Applied adhesive heat and sound deadening material to the underside of the hood followed by the OEM hood insulator (53341-60100 - get it locally shipping is prohibitive). I'm hoping this will be better for the new hood paint and make the ride quieter. 12 clips required (90467-09014).

 

[DanTheMan]

What heat and sound deadening material did you use @Inukshuk?

 

[Inukshuk]

What heat and sound deadening material did you use @Inukshuk?

Amazon.com: Guteauto 236 mil 15 sqft Car Insulation Automotive Sound Deadener Soundproof Insulation Mat Sound Absorbing Dampening Material Car Insulation 55" x 39" : Automotive

Buy Guteauto 236 mil 15 sqft Car Insulation Automotive Sound Deadener Soundproof Insulation Mat Sound Absorbing Dampening Material Car Insulation 55" x 39": Insulation - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Its what Dave Schenker of Delta Vehicle Systems posted on FB that the used. I think it will work fine for me since its under an OEM liner and more than I ever had before. Its very light which is good for the hood staying up on the gas struts. My understanding is that products like dynamat are somewhat heavy. I'll bring some to show you this weekend. I have plenty extra.

 

[Notyourmomslx450]

I bought an 1996 FJ80. And put a battery in it. View attachment 91819the truck is a little rough around the edges; 260k, no lockers, dry rot tires, needs brakes, dead battery, front seats are beat up but it runs pretty good and my plans are for hard usage. Huge thank you to @DanielChase for the lead, negotiating and help getting the truck home! Now to get it through emissions....

Nice score @DomOfTheDead

 

[Inukshuk]

The alternator connector would not "click" back in place. de-pinned the old one (it crumbled ) and put in a new one.