OHUZJ100
Locked
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2019
- Messages
- 284
I did the same thing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-TO...-/202997338598?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
Not sure if it's the same on the (80?) but it easy to depin and reconnect it. 😄
What have you done to your rig today?
- Thread starter HoneyBadger
- Start date
Not sure if it's the same on the (80?) but it easy to depin and reconnect it. 😄
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
Plug it in and give a wrap of electrical tape. Will be good for a while.
Many people (including me) have old wire harnesses to take apart for this purpose. Post up a wanted thread. Connectors are easy to "de-pin" once you get the hang of it (until that point they are frustrating as hell!
One trick with old connectors is to not "press" the lever to separate but insert a small screwdriver to lift.
Right on thanks! Yeah I'm a little worried about de-pinning the old connector. I ordered two new female ends from Stevinson today should get them next week sometime.
Bought one of these fan dangled Chinese Diesel Heaters. So far one of the best $130 I’ve ever spent. I hate supporting Chinese garbage, but this is an experiment to get megan in the tent with me in the winter.
Got 14hrs of on time through the cold (approx. 20deg F avg). In that 14hrs, I had 6 starts (on purpose turning on and off). I had it on 3/4 power, and burned 3/4 gallon of k1.... about 10.5hrs of burn time. All of that on a fully charged 16ah Lithium phosphate battery.
Final batt pack will be 2 16ah in parallel, so 32ah. Should be totally fine running through the night while charging any accessories.low voltage cutoff appears to be 11.2 vilts
Got 14hrs of on time through the cold (approx. 20deg F avg). In that 14hrs, I had 6 starts (on purpose turning on and off). I had it on 3/4 power, and burned 3/4 gallon of k1.... about 10.5hrs of burn time. All of that on a fully charged 16ah Lithium phosphate battery.
Final batt pack will be 2 16ah in parallel, so 32ah. Should be totally fine running through the night while charging any accessories.low voltage cutoff appears to be 11.2 vilts
Attachments
White Stripe
Hard Core 4+
I've heard of those but have no idea how they work. They have batteries and diesel?
White Stripe
Hard Core 4+
Noticed my frame cracking behind the steering box on my 80 series. Strange since this has only been on like two trails.
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
BTDT. I have custom plates now welded on inside of frame and fresh weld bead on the part that would be top of bracket/bottom of frame in your picture. Where are your cracks? I cannot see them here. Be sure to check inside around the bolt holes. Toyota did not see fit to weld the full circumference. Good news is this is 100% repairable.
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
100: Drove it.
80: Replaced alternator brushes on the 80. Did not pull the alternator. This is a 1 🍌 job. These brushes have 104,000 miles on them. Still good for a while but nice peace of mind for $15 and an hour. Tip of screwdriver shows location. Pull the oil filer and remove PS reservoir bracket bolts so you can move it a little and there is plenty of access. 8MM socket is needed for the cover nuts. My connector did not break but I could not get it to click back on so it will be getting replaced.
80: Replaced alternator brushes on the 80. Did not pull the alternator. This is a 1 🍌 job. These brushes have 104,000 miles on them. Still good for a while but nice peace of mind for $15 and an hour. Tip of screwdriver shows location. Pull the oil filer and remove PS reservoir bracket bolts so you can move it a little and there is plenty of access. 8MM socket is needed for the cover nuts. My connector did not break but I could not get it to click back on so it will be getting replaced.
Went and played in the snow a little, than went to Starbucks again. 😂😢
Old40Dog
Rising Sun Member
Took the day off of house construction to give the 40 some love. Replaced running and interior lights with LEDs and did the 1st coat of POR 15 on the driver side floorboard.
r.swany
Rising Sun Member
Drove around in the desert last week and ended up with a concave-driver-door mod out on the trail. It was a 1 🍌 job. Prolly only 1-2 seconds of actual work. @Lefty helped. Then went to Starbucks.
Good news is glass, mechanics and interior all in good shape. Rocker panel in good shape. White Knuckle sliders did their job in spades. Just a big 'ol dent in the door. *Update* Lucked out and found a white ‘97 replacement at Oleg’s place 😅 Should be an easy swap!
Good news is glass, mechanics and interior all in good shape. Rocker panel in good shape. White Knuckle sliders did their job in spades. Just a big 'ol dent in the door. *Update* Lucked out and found a white ‘97 replacement at Oleg’s place 😅 Should be an easy swap!
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AlpineAccess
Hard Core 4+
Looks perfect for one of these
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Totally rad!!!! I've always wondered about those!!!!
LiFe would probably be good for cold weather, but over the break we built two e bikes with homebrewed 84v (20s6p) 15Ah packs and I was in shock at how long they lasted and we were just riding the craaaap out of them.. We used name brand 18650's (120 of them) with a ebay chinese BMS.
I guess the nice thing about a Life is you can charge it with the truck maybe? I know the one in my dirt bike (shorai battery) takes "normal" charging voltages and just absolutely crushes it in the performance category.
Installed a Madman EMS3. Been waiting on this for a while due to the S. Africa shutdown. Pretty happy with it so far.
This is for non-OBD vehicles, so sensors were installed for each readout. Still need to hit the trans sensor (will be OILT on the gauge), but didn't feel like dropping the drive shaft to get to it.
This is for non-OBD vehicles, so sensors were installed for each readout. Still need to hit the trans sensor (will be OILT on the gauge), but didn't feel like dropping the drive shaft to get to it.
From my expiriene on my previous 4runner, the plugs with the silicone seals stayed together pretty well. I did end up going back in with the super thin zip ties for peace of mind about a year after the clips broke off. They had not budged.
White Stripe
Hard Core 4+
Welded up my frame. Looked at a lot of excessively cracked 80 series frames online hoping I could imitate successful repairs. Hopefully this will hold up. I would probably do it a little differently if I did it again.
Got my new reman/OEM alternator in today. Ended up replacing my A/C idler pulley as well. If anyone ends up having to do something similar here are the part numbers for the belts, idler pulley and the connectors. I also learned something pretty valuable when it comes to having to replace plastic connectors and trying to figure out what the part number is. Mr Yoda put the number on the connectors itself. This made my life mucho easier.
Connect to alternator
90980-11349
Connector above alternator next to power steering reservoir
90980-10946
Idler Pully
88440-26090
Both sets of belts
99332-10910-83
90916-02353-83
Connect to alternator
90980-11349
Connector above alternator next to power steering reservoir
90980-10946
Idler Pully
88440-26090
Both sets of belts
99332-10910-83
90916-02353-83
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KC Masterpiece
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- May 4, 2019
- Messages
- 1,319
Thanks for putting that list together. I was going to swap my alt out this weekend since it looks like the weather will be okay but now I am worried about breaking the connector. Debating if I should just order one to have on standby.
I had the same failure with the connector on my front O2 sensor. Its been running fine with a zip tie holding it together for over a year now. Slightly less risky than having a loose alternator connection though!
The connectors are only 8 or 9 bucks a piece so having them on hand just in case isn't a deal breaker. They're pretty easy to de-pin too as I found out.
If you swap out your alternator it may not slide right back into place on the top pivot bolt location. Mine wouldn't fit back into place because there are two inserts, forward and aft the the top of the alternator is supposed to fit between. You can try to push the inserts out a bit but I end up using a block of wood and a rubber mallet to tap it in between the insert mounts to line up the pivot bolt.