aprosise
Hard Core 4+
Needed to get some rust prevention done on the mini. It lived in tall wet grass for a bit and really did a number. These are the cleanest/rustiest bolt I’ve seen. When you start, it’s hard to stop diving in deeper...
What have you done to your rig today?
- Thread starter HoneyBadger
- Start date
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Well, got the driveshaft in after all new u-joints and a new carrier bearing. Took it out for a test drive. It was alright up to 30, where it developed a bit of a vibration. At that point thought "Alright, we'll see." By 40 MPH it was very noticeably shaking interior and exterior mirrors and by 50 it was borderline filling rattling and getting worse so I never hit 60 MPH.
Took it off, doubling checking phasing, that I clocked all the yokes with my witness marks, had the zerks in the right place, checked each bearing cup for clearance (Spicer included 3 thickness clips to shim them). I put it back on, checking everything I could think of. I even followed the left-right adjustment of the carrier exactly like the FSM shows. It was way more perfect than I've ever tried to make a driveshaft installation. But it was clearly out of balance.
Threw in the towel and took it to the shop. Driveline Service here in GJ, the place Hugh at Safari Unlimited used to use actually. He put it on the balancer and it would not even make one full revolution without flopping around. The slip yoke splines were toast. Stuffed them full of grease. They are not designed to be greased so that was throwing darts and if it had worked (it didn't but damped the movement on the machine at least) it would have lasted about 5 minutes.
So that got done. They use Neapco parts instead of Spicer. I don't know that it really matters, it does look nice and is greaseable, too. Took a little less weight to balance. From the factory it had a couple of sizable hunks of weight that it doesn't now.
It's much better, not Cadillac smooth but quiet and reasonably smooth and doesn't feel like it's trying to pole vault the driveshaft. I think having the slip yoke at the top by the carrier instead of at the axle like Toyota used to do might not be ideal. It seems to me the splines are the most likely to develop wear and it will be amplified by the rubber-isolated carrier rather than the third member holding it. Not sure all the shaft variables a driveline engineer might consider but maybe it has to be done this way when they eliminated the double cardan (which IMO is just being cheap).
Took it off, doubling checking phasing, that I clocked all the yokes with my witness marks, had the zerks in the right place, checked each bearing cup for clearance (Spicer included 3 thickness clips to shim them). I put it back on, checking everything I could think of. I even followed the left-right adjustment of the carrier exactly like the FSM shows. It was way more perfect than I've ever tried to make a driveshaft installation. But it was clearly out of balance.
Threw in the towel and took it to the shop. Driveline Service here in GJ, the place Hugh at Safari Unlimited used to use actually. He put it on the balancer and it would not even make one full revolution without flopping around. The slip yoke splines were toast. Stuffed them full of grease. They are not designed to be greased so that was throwing darts and if it had worked (it didn't but damped the movement on the machine at least) it would have lasted about 5 minutes.
So that got done. They use Neapco parts instead of Spicer. I don't know that it really matters, it does look nice and is greaseable, too. Took a little less weight to balance. From the factory it had a couple of sizable hunks of weight that it doesn't now.
It's much better, not Cadillac smooth but quiet and reasonably smooth and doesn't feel like it's trying to pole vault the driveshaft. I think having the slip yoke at the top by the carrier instead of at the axle like Toyota used to do might not be ideal. It seems to me the splines are the most likely to develop wear and it will be amplified by the rubber-isolated carrier rather than the third member holding it. Not sure all the shaft variables a driveline engineer might consider but maybe it has to be done this way when they eliminated the double cardan (which IMO is just being cheap).
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KC Masterpiece
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- May 4, 2019
- Messages
- 1,366
Brought her home with a new windshield (finally glued properly) and a freshly painted hood. If you in the mountains and need body work Js body shop is a good choice.
ccslider
Hard Core 4+
Put the rear main seal in today. Used a home depot HDX paint mix bucket as a seal installer and it worked great.
I was nervous about resealing the rear main seal housing because of the oil pan upper arch but it went well.
Finally after 2 years I completed the low range/ under drive/ part time install.
The trans shift kit is working well. The shift is really firm. I'd recommend to probably go a little smaller on the drill size next time. It feels like a hot rod. I might try another shift kit with my spare valve body.
I also installed the hudd expo skid plate. I still need to chop my trans mount bolts and weld the bolt protector back on. This skid plate is really nice!
I was nervous about resealing the rear main seal housing because of the oil pan upper arch but it went well.
Finally after 2 years I completed the low range/ under drive/ part time install.
The trans shift kit is working well. The shift is really firm. I'd recommend to probably go a little smaller on the drill size next time. It feels like a hot rod. I might try another shift kit with my spare valve body.
I also installed the hudd expo skid plate. I still need to chop my trans mount bolts and weld the bolt protector back on. This skid plate is really nice!
Attachments
Got parts back from the powdercoater!
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Jesús Christo that looks amazeballs Dan. Nice Photography work too.
gungriffin
Rising Sun Member
Is some of that Cerekote for temp reasons? Or just to make it look freaking awesome?
Yes to both, I really like ceakote burnt bronze, and the valve cover is plastic so low-temp curing was important. Exhaust parts are high-temp bake-on. Really happy with how it turned out.
I switched to Amsteel Blue synthetic winch line on the ‘40. Thanks to @jps8460 for the help and knowledge sharing. We put 65' of new synthetic line on the winch.
we put tubular webbing over the line for the first wrap in an effort to mitigate heat issues from the winch drum brake.
I’ll add a chaffing guard later.
we put tubular webbing over the line for the first wrap in an effort to mitigate heat issues from the winch drum brake.
I’ll add a chaffing guard later.
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Nothing special, installed a cup holder. Used a cup holder from a shopping cart that my buddy "borrowed" from Target about 8 years.
fjc man
Rising Sun Member
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
I drove my truck around the neighborhood today. This is the first time I've driven it since about March 10th. I have run it for about 15 minutes every 7-10 days though to try and keep the battery charged. But I think I'm having either an intermittent parasitic load (I tested for parasitic load last week and found only 0.05 amps of draw which can mostly be explained by the crude alarm I have in the truck) or the battery is quickly dying. Today when I went out to start it (last time running was 8 days ago), the battery read 3.5 volts! I'm pretty sure my voltmeter is good but 🤷🏻♂️. I used my little lithium battery jumper pack to fire up the truck. Then I drove around the neighborhood with no problem. I do have a Powermaster alternator that can deliver 170 amps when needed. When I parked, the battery read 12.5 volts stable.
I'll go try starting it again tomorrow to see if it is dead again. If so, I'll charge it up and then disconnect the terminals from the battery. Then I'll try running it again the next day and see if it's dead. If it is, then I'll be seeing about using the warranty on this Interstate battery. It's less than two years old.
It felt really good to drive. The last time I drove was a few weeks ago when I went to the ENT doctor to get my ears checked out. Before that, it had been over three weeks.
I'll go try starting it again tomorrow to see if it is dead again. If so, I'll charge it up and then disconnect the terminals from the battery. Then I'll try running it again the next day and see if it's dead. If it is, then I'll be seeing about using the warranty on this Interstate battery. It's less than two years old.
It felt really good to drive. The last time I drove was a few weeks ago when I went to the ENT doctor to get my ears checked out. Before that, it had been over three weeks.
J1000
Rising Sun Member
I added a piggyback ECU to my truck today and dropped my 0-60 time by nearly a full second! Ready for a turbo now! haha!
I didn’t do anything to my rig, but just housed about 4lbs of bbq @Mendocino dropped off. Some of the best brisket I’ve ever had.
cheers!
cheers!
You can’t put that back in your truck now. It looks AMAZING!! It needs to reside in your living room as art.
And what a great day it was for a ride in a 40!
Thanks! I'll see what Lindsey says... Wish me luck!
justin4045
Rising Sun Member
cleaned up the dash knobs, rebuilt the wiper motors and cleaned up a bit of wiring on the 45
![IMG_3196[1].JPG](https://risingsun4x4club.org/xf/attachments/img_3196-1-jpg.85371/ "IMG_3196[1].JPG")
Wow! Just about every post on this page needs its own thread... amazing stuff! 
I topped off the oil in the 40 yesterday... was about 1/2 qt. low.
I topped off the oil in the 40 yesterday... was about 1/2 qt. low.
justin4045
Rising Sun Member
Love the feeling I get when installing new OEM Toyota parts. It just makes my day!
