What have you done to your rig today?

[Cruisertrash]

I've seen several shackle reversals on 40s but never one on a 60 before. And yeah, working on your back is WORK.

The shackle reversal takes some dialing in but works great when you get there. The “kit” that’s available for sale is probably not worth it since right off the bat the springs are wrong - they all need to be 1-2” longer. It’s also easier on 85+ 60s with the front drive shaft that has a single u-joint at the top & bottom. On the early trucks with a double cardan at the top, the driveshaft wants the pinion in line with the shaft, which is the opposite tilt you want for good caster. So either cut & turn the front axle housing, or get a later driveshaft and notch the crossmember.

Overall it drives and tracks great, is much more comfortable on the road, and flexes like crazy on the trail. Plenty of room for 35s if you wanted to go nuts regearing or engine swapping. The extra ground clearance makes getting a transmission out easier too! 🤣

 

[Capriblue45]

Keep wrenching on that old iron Jim. Can't wait to see your build thread.

 

[mikedrom]

New wheel/tire day!

 

[J1000]

Saw this on Mud, 500hp 100 series. Thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2uz-engine-build-300-to-400-to-500whp.1322248/

 

[DomOfTheDead]

Saw this on Mud, 500hp 100 series. Thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2uz-engine-build-300-to-400-to-500whp.1322248/

Yeah but I know a local guy with a LX470 that has headers, a blower and actually wheels his rig pretty hard

 

[Cruisertrash]

Drove her home. Lots of new sounds and smells. Only issue is the bolts holding the front driveshaft onto the transfer case flange graze the new transmission mount. I’ve only rotated it by hand thus far and it hits resistance on every bolt head. I haven’t checked but the aftermarket mount is probably different than the Toyota one. I’ll probably notch the “ear” of the mount for clearance.

Skid pan will stay off for a day or two to monitor the situation. After that it’s on to my puking steering box and getting my spare block to Gunn.

 

[J Kimmel]

Changed plugs and wires today, trying to find a stutter before wheeling season

 

[shellb]

We’re getting closer to Cruise Moab and being “done”

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Gave the pickup her first wash of the year.

 

[Notyourmomslx450]

Mounting new BFG KM3’s. I’m getting to old for this shit.
2 done. Third in process,

 

[subzali]

So for some reason the PO of my 80s put non-winch bumpers on both of them. A few years ago I got a winch bumper for the green 80 off Craigslist. Fixed it up a bit and painted it. Unfortunately it got pretty bent up in the accident but still functions just fine. So it will stay for a while longer.

A little bit ago I found a winch bumper for the white 80 on Craigslist too. It needed some rust treatment, which I was putting off, not wanting to do. But finally dug into it. Once done it will carry the $200 M12000.

Sometime in the future I will get another winch bumper so the green 80 will be able to have a straight bumper once again, but right now I’d rather both 80s be carrying warm wenches.

 

[Rzeppa]

Gave the pickup her first wash of the year.

View attachment 127946

What part of the country do you live in? I don't see any snow there!

 

[Hulk]

Retorqued the front wheel bearings today in advance of Cruise Moab. You might say I had my own private Wheel Bearing Packing Party, which used to be an annual RS event back when most members had FJ40s and 60s.

Pro tip 1: you don't need to remove the brake calipers to retorque wheel bearings.

Pro tip 2: make sure you have the C-clip on the axle shaft before putting the cone washers, flat washers, and nuts on the drive flange and tightening it all up. Otherwise you will have to take everything apart a second time to get the axle shaft pulled out enough to get the C-clip on there.

Side note: my very first event with the Rising Sun was in 2000 at the Wheel Bearing Packing Party at The Toy Doctor in Littleton. I remember meeting @Cheeseman and @arthog. I think it was @arthog's first RS event too, but he was a far more experienced wheeler than me. I was in awe of his FJ55 (and still am).

I'm hoping the wheel bearing re-torquing will solve my downhill braking shudder. I have already replaced most of the front end parts.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

What part of the country do you live in? I don't see any snow there!

Carbondale. We got about an inch and it melted fast.

 

[MountainGoat]

... right now I’d rather both 80s be carrying warm wenches.

 

[rover67]

Better 'n cold dead ones I guess

 

[nakman]

Retorqued the front wheel bearings today in advance of Cruise Moab. You might say I had my own private Wheel Bearing Packing Party, which used to be an annual RS event back when most members had FJ40s and 60s.

Pro tip 1: you don't need to remove the brake calipers to retorque wheel bearings.

Pro tip 2: make sure you have the C-clip on the axle shaft before putting the cone washers, flat washers, and nuts on the drive flange and tightening it all up. Otherwise you will have to take everything apart a second time to get the axle shaft pulled out enough to get the C-clip on there.

Side note: my very first event with the Rising Sun was in 2000 at the Wheel Bearing Packing Party at The Toy Doctor in Littleton. I remember meeting @Cheeseman and @arthog. I think it was @arthog's first RS event too, but he was a far more experienced wheeler than me. I was in awe of his FJ55 (and still am).

I'm hoping the wheel bearing re-torquing will solve my downhill braking shudder. I have already replaced most of the front end parts.

Wait, what?

Pro tip 1: true, but if you plan to use any kind scale to measure preload, you gotta get the brake out of the equation. But if you're just bumping it 1/4 turn turn then slapping it back on the ground, yes.

Pro top 2: Did you try inserting an M8 bolt into the end of the shaft, then pulling it out? And actually I'm trying to vision just how you'd put the C-clip on any time but last... unless you're slipping the drive flange over it prior to even sliding the axle back in. But if you're just tightening the bearing then you didn't even take the spindle off.

 

[Rzeppa]

Side note: my very first event with the Rising Sun was in 2000 at the Wheel Bearing Packing Party at The Toy Doctor in Littleton. I remember meeting @Cheeseman and @arthog. I think it was @arthog's first RS event too, but he was a far more experienced wheeler than me. I was in awe of his FJ55 (and still am).

I was at that WBPP too, as were Steve Crase, Mark Sobczak, Bruce Minney, and Rob Meredith.

 

[baileyfj40]

I was there...

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Wait, what?

Pro tip 1: true, but if you plan to use any kind scale to measure preload, you gotta get the brake out of the equation. But if you're just bumping it 1/4 turn turn then slapping it back on the ground, yes.

Pro top 2: Did you try inserting an M8 bolt into the end of the shaft, then pulling it out? And actually I'm trying to vision just how you'd put the C-clip on any time but last... unless you're slipping the drive flange over it prior to even sliding the axle back in. But if you're just tightening the bearing then you didn't even take the spindle off.

Call me crazy, but I always set preload by feel.

Its like when Amber asks me how I know when a steak is done. "You just know".

100% on pro tip 2. Even then I still swear a bit every time I deal with those damn c clips.