Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
MARCH 2026 CLUB MEETING Hi Guest: The next RS meeting will be Wednesday, March 4, 2026 at 7:30 p.m. LOCATION: The meeting will be held at Cruisers and Company.Click here for details and directions.
⦿ If you are eligible for club membership, please fill out an application in advance of the meeting and bring it with you.
Old door gaskets also leak in heavy rains. Mine was originally bought in Portland, OR and many years later spent many a day in Montana. Not much rust, but definitely A-pillar and driver’s side rear wheel arch. Also noted water comes through the door gaskets. No wet weather use until mine gets the same treatment as yours.
Look through Tim's @nakman 60 build. I believe he re sealed his when he painted. Requires removing the front fenders. Check that the cowl drains aren't clogged too.
Will do, and right on, those are going to get removed for repaint, so what better time? I have to make sure the shop tells me when they do so that I can inspect.
Yes - behind the front fenders are either seams that leak, can leak, or are rusty. My truck was parked under pine trees for years and I had huge wads of needles to clean out. Only because my truck wasn't driven on salty roads for many years did it survive - the behind-the-fender parts were in surprisingly good shape and the caulk was intact. My leaks are at the windshield corners (no matter how many times I have caulked...)
The driver side patch is tac-welded in place; there is still more to do. It was time to figure out what to do with the front radiator core support, since mine is completely rotted, presumably from battery leaks. I already have the inner-fender well, the choice is to pay someone to fabricate or... eBay!! OK Parts had a completely intact, non-rusted, non-corroded radiator core support for sale. And look at that packaging, Man-a-Fre could learn a thing or two from them. This reduces labor since it's now mostly cosmetic work with no fabrication required.
I sure could use a break right about now. We cut through the rear right fender to find the sloppiest Belogna ever. A big, beautiful wire mesh patch with plenty of Bondo to cover the mess. They would have been better off not covering, letting it just rot instead of doing this. I'm upset, and kind of mad at myself for being ripped off.
Here. Typical, right? Like they went out of their way to do a shitty job, and for what?
Two theories now:
I'll find more down the line when it goes through body work; any other spots that haven't yet shown will appear right as they sandblast, so more dollars spent.
Whoever worked on it, approached it the same way elsewhere, and my hope is the rust has had enough to rear its ugly head to let me know where it is, which means these are the only bad spots and I'm OK, but I'm also not very hopeful right now.
I bought the Cruiser Corp over the wheel pieces for Bart’s project and Gonzalo made me send it back to them. He judged them too flimsy for the location and cut and formed thicker gauge metal for less money than the CC cost.
I should know more people, who is Gonzalo? I’m not happy about the CC parts being thinner, but I also don’t have the resources to roll metal, and I’m very much on borrowed time with the equipment I have.
Gonzalo Villalpando was introduced to the club by Mike Simpson and Mike Davidson, @simps80 and @treerootCO, when he worked on their project 40 quite a while ago. He then did an incredible job on my project 40 including body and paint. Since then he has worked on probably close to a dozen other Rising Sun rigs, all with great results. Gonzalo isn’t a Rising Sun member or even a Toyota guy, just someone who does superb work for reasonable prices in an old school manner. Phone number is 720 312 2014