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I think I may have ruined my engine (97 1fz)
- Thread starter coax
- Start date
How I pulled the brass bushing: Large socket.
Stacked washers, found one that was the exact size but pretty thin, so I backed it up with a few more. Used a power steering box mounting bolt. It was just barely long enough.
This orifice was a SOB to get out...torque spec is in IN-LBS but man I thought it was going to round out.
I was confused on how to get the rear main off the Crankshaft...until I did some reading and realize there is a spacer plate on there...rubber hammer did not budge it so had to use small taps with a brass drift.
Stacked washers, found one that was the exact size but pretty thin, so I backed it up with a few more. Used a power steering box mounting bolt. It was just barely long enough.
This orifice was a SOB to get out...torque spec is in IN-LBS but man I thought it was going to round out.
I was confused on how to get the rear main off the Crankshaft...until I did some reading and realize there is a spacer plate on there...rubber hammer did not budge it so had to use small taps with a brass drift.
Quick update here.
- From the machine shop they suggested machinging both the main and rod journals...so I had to order the oversized bearing sets. Went toyota on those. Crank is serviceable otherwise.
- I had originally believed that I could buy a fully built head from toyota. However after more reasearch it now appears that the ~1500 head from Toyota is just the bare casting with some of the seals...no valves/springs/camshafts/etc. And the cams especially are crazy expensive. So..now I'm on the hunt to find a used good head and have it machined/worked/refreshed. I had hoped not to go this route because of timing and I'd bet the machine shop here has 0 stock of 1fz shims lying around.
- If someone has a known good head that hasn't been shaved and the engine didn't die of oil starvation...let me know
- If someone has a known good head that hasn't been shaved and the engine didn't die of oil starvation...let me know
- I accidentally ordered two CHAIN DAMPER 13561-66010 when I got my parts at an extra $42....the part number is super close to the timing chain(13506-66010) of which I ended up with 0.
- If anyone is doing a rebuild and hasn't ordered their Chain Damper yet...I'll make you a super good deal (like just pay for shipping) because I ordered from Partsouq so not likely I can return it
I still have that entire 1fz for sale. It's from a 94 but i think the heads are the same.Quick update here.
- From the machine shop they suggested machinging both the main and rod journals...so I had to order the oversized bearing sets. Went toyota on those. Crank is serviceable otherwise.
- I had originally believed that I could buy a fully built head from toyota. However after more reasearch it now appears that the ~1500 head from Toyota is just the bare casting with some of the seals...no valves/springs/camshafts/etc. And the cams especially are crazy expensive. So..now I'm on the hunt to find a used good head and have it machined/worked/refreshed. I had hoped not to go this route because of timing and I'd bet the machine shop here has 0 stock of 1fz shims lying around.
- If someone has a known good head that hasn't been shaved and the engine didn't die of oil starvation...let me know
- I accidentally ordered two CHAIN DAMPER 13561-66010 when I got my parts at an extra $42....the part number is super close to the timing chain(13506-66010) of which I ended up with 0.
- If anyone is doing a rebuild and hasn't ordered their Chain Damper yet...I'll make you a super good deal (like just pay for shipping) because I ordered from Partsouq so not likely I can return it
Lastresort576
Hard Core 4+
Nicely documented. Any liability or way to prove the filter caused the damage? With the cost of the rebuild might be worth looking into I would think.
Corey - this looks like it might be a good source for a head:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/socal-1fze-engine-for-rebuilding.1208303/#post-13079595
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/socal-1fze-engine-for-rebuilding.1208303/#post-13079595
Not really no
From folks' on mud that had similar issues and sent their filter directly to napa/wix, there was never any traction. I tried to find any company that would do a mechnanical failure analysis of oil filters but didn't really come up with any. I talked to blackstone labs and they agreed to try it out (For free) but they don't really do that type of service. They're teardown didn't find anything wrong so that, coupled with the fact I moved states in the interim and wasn't able to get a claim to napa in the warranty time period made it not worth it to me. I expect to be out less than 5k for my engine rebuild including machine work, buying a replacement used head, and an engine hoist...so a fair bit of money but I imagine any legal approach without some 3rd party to back me up would have actually just cost me legal fees and such.
Awesome thanks! I'm currently in process of buying a used one from Nic; with any luck the used one he has will clean up nicely at the machine shop..but if for some reason it doesn't or I need to find more parts I'll keep that thread in mind!
If you're using a WIX oil filter read this
This is good information. Wondering if the filter with the slow flow, low psi, had a malfunctioning bypass valve?? The Toyota filter suddenly jumped up in PSI; could the bypass valve have opened, allowing the oil to bypass the filter media??
forum.ih8mud.com
Looks to be another roached engine from wix filters. To me the anti drain back valve looks “jammed” or stuck. @DaveInDenver @subzali
Friendly reminder for all to check for these filters
As much fun as my rebuild was...would have preferred not to
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Damn! I’ve been running NAPA Golds for a while now w no issue. Done with that!
so what is best Toyota filter for the 80 now that the large one is NLA?
so what is best Toyota filter for the 80 now that the large one is NLA?
Well the 90915-YZZD4 are very inexpensive. Some folks on mud poo-poo them as they are a thai filter but honestly these engines are pretty easy on oil so not sure its a big deal. Personally like these filters. ~$4 on partsouq
The 15601-44011 are about 8 bucks but are a japan filter and seem to be the new hotness. They are physically larger than the yzzd# filters. Not as large as the old -41010 ones. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-filter-p-n-90915-20004-found-some.827948/post-12889109
I have run a number of the yzzd4's and used them for engine break in too. I have a 44011 on the shelf waiting for next oil change, have not run one yet.
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Thank you!
There is a thread in my Duramax diesel forum where a guy tore apart every filter made for that engine and the Baldwin filter came out on top for quality of construction, number of pleats, etc. I have often wondered if a Baldwin for the 80 would be the same?
I have also seen the yzzd3 discussed for LC. Is that also for the 80 or another year LC?
There is a thread in my Duramax diesel forum where a guy tore apart every filter made for that engine and the Baldwin filter came out on top for quality of construction, number of pleats, etc. I have often wondered if a Baldwin for the 80 would be the same?
I have also seen the yzzd3 discussed for LC. Is that also for the 80 or another year LC?
Lastresort576
Hard Core 4+
I’ve been using the Toyota filter myself for quite a while now. Seems to work just fine. Some Walmart’s are selling them now as well.
Yea I've not used Baldwins, but i've seen a number of folks say similar things in terms of high quality. The yzzd3's are just the older model...looks to have been superceeded to d4. Still applicable to uz & fz
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nuclearlemon
Hard Core 4+
we've seen a lot of failures with baldwins on the heavy truck side. oil filters splitting down the side and fuel separators plugging up too quickly and causing issues. maybe they're geared more for the little vehicles though.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Thanks man! Jealous of your fresh engine build. Congrats.
I should note that rustbucket of an oil pressure sensor along with subharness was replaced; that one there was just to keep dirt out of the port while doing the assembly. Best money of the rebuild was getting a new subharness and new sensor on there. Now have accurate oil pressure readings again
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