Got my first cruiser

subzali

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I think I’ve heard somewhere that a knuckle service is about 60,000 miles, give or take.

Husky mats were a popular option at one point. Not sure if they are still around. One of my 80s has some kind of generic mats in front.
 

mike759

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Wheat Ridge
Typically a cold engine will read higher pressure due to the viscosity of the oil, and a warm engine will read lower pressure.

My 1FZ oil pressure will read in the lower half when warm. But the gauges on the 80s are more of a reference than a reading.

Mine reads that, but I have a LS with a high pressure oil pump.
My 1FZ, like most others read low. Like really low when warm.
Your sensor might be bad, but if oils in it, you’re usually fine

Yea it was still cold when I took picture. When it’s warm and drops to idle the needle sits right around the middle and in the middle upper third when on the gas, never got all the way up though. As long as that’s not bad I’m not concerned.
 

Lastresort576

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Also, probably a stupid question, but what’s everyone’s oil pressure looking like? Never had a vehicle with oil pressure gauge. Mine fluctuates through the top two thirds of the gauge. Is that normal or too high?
my gauge pretty much always reads around the 3/4 mark. '97 with 293k
 

mike759

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post a pic of the knuckles.... plenty of us solid axle guys can tell you if it something to worry about or not.... if it was done 3k miles ago it should be fine (in theory).
they almost always seep something.
IMG_3673.jpeg
Both sides look like this. Hasn’t gotten any worse in the past week, although there’s some mud from the weekend.
 

Johnny Utah

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They look normal. If they start dripping oily residue then it’s time to do the job. Also if they start making noises or clicking or the steering gets clunky or notchy it’s probably time to do the job and possibly replace the birfield joints.

If you don’t know when they were serviced last, pull the square headed plugs off the top of the knuckle and pump some molybdenum based grease in there.
 

Notyourmomslx450

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Hulk

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I have a pair of sliders that weld onto the frame. They'll need a little clean up with a wire wheel plus a fresh coat of spray paint. You can have them for free or maybe a 12-pack.
 

mike759

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I have a pair of sliders that weld onto the frame. They'll need a little clean up with a wire wheel plus a fresh coat of spray paint. You can have them for free or maybe a 12-pack.
Hell yea! Thank you I’ll shoot you a message.
Looks like I’ll be testing my welding capabilities.
 

mike759

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Another question: I read these trucks have an automatic center locker when in 4low. Is there supposed to be a light on the dash when engaged or is it just implied?
 

Lastresort576

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Another question: I read these trucks have an automatic center locker when in 4low. Is there supposed to be a light on the dash when engaged or is it just implied?
abs, cdl lights illuminate when you put it in 4l. i feel like there might be one more light but drawing a blank
 

mike759

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abs, cdl lights illuminate when you put it in 4l. i feel like there might be one more light but drawing a blank
So it's weird that I get no lights at all in 4low? I know the abs light at least works as it illuminates when I turn the key.
 

Mag71k5

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So it's weird that I get no lights at all in 4low? I know the abs light at least works as it illuminates when I turn the key.
Yup, one way to start diagnosing the center diff lock actuator.

Engine off, key in the on position, transmission in neutral, shift transfer case to low. You should audibly here the actuator whine for a second as it tries to lock the center diff.

If it makes noise and you get no light still, jack up one of the front tires off the ground. With the other three still firmly on the ground.

If the tire in the air spins freely with some drag, the center diff is NOT locked. If it spins a few inches then locks firmly, it IS locked.

Sometimes actuators freeze up from lack of use.

There are several threads on ih8mud that cover the center diff and actuator in more detail, but this will at least let you know where to start.
 

mike759

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Sometimes actuators get locked up from lack of use.
Thanks, when I was asking the previous owner about the transfer case he said he almost never used low range. I'll mess around with it tomorrow. Is there a method to freeing it up without tearing it apart?
 

Mag71k5

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Thanks, when I was asking the previous owner about the transfer case he said he almost never used low range. I'll mess around with it tomorrow. Is there a method to freeing it up without tearing it apart?
I think if it's making noise, there might be a chance itll free up from cycling it.

Basically the grease they use on install from the factory just becomes more like a glue over a million heat cycles if its not moved around.

If its silent, I'd start with checking the wires and verifying you have power coming from the harness into the actuator. Grab a buddy to shift the transfer case as you probe the harness side pins with a test light.

There's also a relay for the transfer case actuator, I believe its behind the driver kick panel trim but verify that first.
 

mike759

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Hopped in the truck this morning and shifted into 4L just to see and I am getting the click from the relay(?) in the cab. I’ll get under it this weekend and mess with the switches/wiring on the unit.
 

Mag71k5

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Hopped in the truck this morning and shifted into 4L just to see and I am getting the click from the relay(?) in the cab. I’ll get under it this weekend and mess with the switches/wiring on the unit.
Actuator is probably getting power if the relay is firing. Its probably just froze! Good luck!
 

satchel

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Erie Co
Isn't the 4 Low actuation the same as turning on the 4WD button? Do you get all the lights when you hit 4WD? If so, you may have the 4 low unlocked mod which would likely be a good thing. That means you can drive in AWD high and low and only lock the CDL when you want to by clicking the 4wd button.

It's been a long week so I may be mixing up my truck models, but pretty sure I have this mod in my 96 lx450.

edit: this mod was done to my truck so I'm not sure what switches were added to mine that are not on stock trucks. Maybe you don't have that button that I do and you only actuate by going into low, idk.

 
Last edited:

Mag71k5

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Isn't the 4 Low actuation the same as turning on the 4WD button? Do you get all the lights when you hit 4WD? If so, you may have the 4 low unlocked mod which would likely be a good thing. That means you can drive in AWD high and low and only lock the CDL when you want to by clicking the 4wd button.

It's been a long week so I may be mixing up my truck models, but pretty sure I have this mod in my 96 lx450.

edit: this mod was done to my truck so I'm not sure what switches were added to mine that are not on stock trucks. Maybe you don't have that button that I do and you only actuate by going into low, idk.

I think most US spec 80s don't have the CDL dash switch, its either a blank or if you have the rs3000 security system, itll have a security light.

So yes, stock it'll engage the CDL when shifted into 4low
 

Notyourmomslx450

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I think most US spec 80s don't have the CDL dash switch, its either a blank or if you have the rs3000 security system, itll have a security light.

So yes, stock it'll engage the CDL when shifted into 4low
96/97 don't have the button. *edit* 90-92 has the button.
 
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