got a 40 - now it begins

[simps80]

I do have a problem that I would like input on though.

the pistons are all stamped ra2648 .075 then 0.04 UD

.075 converts from MM to .0295 inches so I'm assuming this is .30 over...searching on mud reveals that's true:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/176742-repco-piston-part-number-info.html

but I can't figure out 0.04 UD.

<snip>

<snip>

http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/176742-repco-piston-part-number-info.html

yep

 

[Air Randy]

The valve head could have detached from the stem too. For me, if I have an engine on the stand, I'm going to at least disassemble the bottom end and check everything out. You had enough rust in that motor I would check the rod and main bearing journals and drop in new bearings, they're cheap. Replace the rear main seal at the same time. Check the oil pump to make sure the clearances are good and there is no rust or chunks in it. Check the play and thrust on the timing gears, etc. Super easy to do at this stage. Its not much more of a step to pop the pistons, hone the cylinders and put in new rings too. For very little money you then have a known good motor versus just hoping everything is OK.

Dont assume just because it turns over easy that everything is OK, who knows why it was pulled out originally?

 

[simps80]

Doesn't the notch in the piston point to the front of the truck? If so, the nick in the piston looks too close to the centerline of the pistion to be the edge of the valve, (or you have some really small valves.)

Does the head or block have any numbers stamped on them? The shop that decked my 2F head stamped an "050" on it to indicate to future generations that it had been shaved 0.050".

I'll look for any markings on block and head,

yes the notch does point to the front, the first picture you can kind of see how close the mark is to the center line

when I get the nikon fixed I can post better pictures too.

 

[simps80]

The valve head could have detached from the stem too. For me, if I have an engine on the stand, I'm going to at least disassemble the bottom end and check everything out. You had enough rust in that motor I would check the rod and main bearing journals and drop in new bearings, they're cheap. Replace the rear main seal at the same time. Check the oil pump to make sure the clearances are good and there is no rust or chunks in it. Check the play and thrust on the timing gears, etc. Super easy to do at this stage. Its not much more of a step to pop the pistons, hone the cylinders and put in new rings too. For very little money you then have a known good motor versus just hoping everything is OK.

Dont assume just because it turns over easy that everything is OK, who knows why it was pulled out originally?

noted, thanks for that.

the guy pulled it to put a v8 in he said. but he also said that was the mid 80s so I think you're right, its probably best to take the next step.

 

[simps80]

update...
so its been a while ...again.

latest:
I took the engine apart, took it down to gunn had them go through it and machine everything.
started putting it together, Mike stops by: "I think flat top pistons with this head is not right"

he's right. I wish I had caught that before paying all that $ for the head work....

I have open chamber head with flat top pistons ... probably why the guy pulled it to begin with, ran like crap, like 6.5 to 1 or something.
oh well, I learned stuff.

biggest problem is there are no oversized domed pistons, NLA except for std
So...I have 3 options:
1. buy custom pistons ($700 to $1200 depending on source)
2. mill the crap (.100) out of the open chamber head to get compression up w/ flat tops
3. source a later 2f head with closed chamber

I am going with number 3....hopefully...

http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?p=238836#post238836

while I waited on gunn, I rebuilt my carb, pretty fun project, ricardo's thread was a big help thanks Ricardo! I had the 2f manual, his thread, a camera, a pad and pencil and patience.

before:

during:

after:

 

[Rzeppa]

Check with Bill at Mile High Performance, he seems to be able to source unobtainium parts for Land Cruiser engines. Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons. Gunn should have known better though!

BTW, I know of a few people who have used F heads on 2F blocks to get better compression. The only gotcha is having to oil the rockers, which is just some extra work. If you want to go that route I have a good F head you can have for free.

 

[SteveH]

If you want a 2F head, post the casting number you want. I have one in my garage you can have, as well as a later 1F head with air-injection fittings. Both would need some work, but both are free if you need them.

 

[simps80]

Check with Bill at Mile High Performance, he seems to be able to source unobtainium parts for Land Cruiser engines. Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons. Gunn should have known better though!

BTW, I know of a few people who have used F heads on 2F blocks to get better compression. The only gotcha is having to oil the rockers, which is just some extra work. If you want to go that route I have a good F head you can have for free.

Thanks Jeff for the offer i'll let you know on that, Bill at mtn high presumably couldn't find any since he never called me back.

If you want a 2F head, post the casting number you want. I have one in my garage you can have, as well as a later 1F head with air-injection fittings. Both would need some work, but both are free if you need them.

Steve, thanks, I think its 61040 for post 81 2f closed chambered head.

 

[jps8460]

I checked with epwi and itm units in all sizes except std have been on back order since march. And they don't think they are coming in anytime soon. My source for sealed power units said check eBay and parts stores sometimes you can find them sitting in a warehouse.

I think your best bet is to find another head. I think your valves and springs will interchange. So you'll just be in for guides seats seals and machine work.

Bummer man good luck!

 

[simps80]

I checked with epwi and itm units in all sizes except std have been on back order since march. And they don't think they are coming in anytime soon. My source for sealed power units said check eBay and parts stores sometimes you can find them sitting in a warehouse.

I think your best bet is to find another head. I think your valves and springs will interchange. So you'll just be in for guides seats seals and machine work.

Bummer man good luck!

Hey thanks for checking anyways..appreciate it...I pretty much gave up the hunt for pistons..it was a fun hunt though..

 

[PabloCruise]

Another option is to sleeve the cylinders so they can accept stock sized pistons...

Sounds this fate may await all us "domers" unless another batch of domed pistons in various oversize options materializes...

 

[simps80]

resolution!

<---that's me now

ok the questions of what to do are answered.

For a brief summary of the goings on....:
-1975 to 1980 2f's came with domed pistons
-those match with 6103x heads that are open chambered
-you can't find domed pistons anymore..like anywhere, it seems.
-that means you're screwed unless you find a 6104x head which are used on later 2f's and you use the later flat top pistons that are still available, or you get really really lucky and find a set of domed pistons that someone had sitting around.

.....
so long story long, after 2 complete engines and lots of weirdness...
I brought all the newly machine parts back from Gunn using combinations of two motors, enough I thought to put back together a nice rebuilt fully machined 2f for my project from Gunn only to realize the pistons I was planning to use were the flat tops and not suitable for the 61030 head I had rebuilt.

I found a 61040 head from SteveH on the forum and dropped that off to be rebuilt and still haven't heard back from them on whether or not it can be rebuilt or not

in the meantine (over the past 4 months) Mike D's ebay skills are awesome....he found what amounts to a brand new set of domed 2f pistons RY6215-040 (1.00mm or .040" oversized) over two separate auctions...I've been watching for these and calling around for months, and he found them...

so for posterity's sake, and because I like pictures, here's some pics of all this domed and open chamber business that I wish had been pictured somewhere else when I started this....

man these look good!

these will match much mo better with the 61030 :

 

[simps80]

now anyone still paying close attention will note that these are 1.00mm (.040") oversized domed ry6215-040 pistons and I've been blathering on and on about .030" or .75mm oversized bores and flat tops....

...hold please for a brief interlude to show another picture with questionable archival significance....

so yes, that means one more trip down to ol' Gunn to do ^ that again..but only the part about boring the block to .040 from .030 to use the shiny new slugs.

and just because I enjoy ridiculous-pictures-I-usually-find-on-the-internet-but-this-one-was-shot-from-my-driveway-yes-i-am-that-dumb....

I didn't do it this way again:

that ^ represents a marginally useful set of l3,4,and 5 vertebrae now.....no one ever accused me of above average intelligence. But hey, my wife got a new car and left me with this purple sienna I thought it would be better if, because its purple and its a mini-van, it at least smelled like oil ... I was wrong..but dang that thing is nice to drive with a busted up lower back, its like driving a sofa.

 

[simps80]

So that's my trip around the past 4 or so months ...



yes that's 3 cheers to Mike D for finding useful and nearly impossible to find pistons and for not letting me use my sweet dream purple mini-van this time to haul crap. if you have ever heard me mention the sienna during introductions at RS meetings and wondered who is this goofball and why is he talking about his van......
if you broke your back right after inheriting that bad-bad-man-mobile trying to prove its utilitarian and not just lame ... you'd mention it too. lol literally

 

[SteveH]

Sweet pics and story. Glad it's coming together. Hope your back does as well!

 

[subzali]

Good work Mike and Mike!

 

[Rzeppa]

that ^ represents a marginally useful set of l3,4,and 5 vertebrae now...

Whilst it isn't quite like driving a sofa, what I like to do is toss a pallet into the bed of my FJ45 and then drop the engine onto the pallet with the cherry picker. The machine shop normally has a fork lift to take the palletized motor off the truck bed and put it back when they're done.

Seems to work okay and doesn't mess with my back...

 

[simps80]

Whilst it isn't quite like driving a sofa, what I like to do is toss a pallet into the bed of my FJ45 and then drop the engine onto the pallet with the cherry picker. The machine shop normally has a fork lift to take the palletized motor off the truck bed and put it back when they're done.

Seems to work okay and doesn't mess with my back...

indeed

you should sell me your FJ45 or better yet, I'll trade you for the purple sofa

 

[Kipper]

mmmmmm freshly machined head pics

 

[rover67]

man, that's gonna be a SWEET motor!!!

That's awesome you guys got the Domed Pistons. Your's may be the last running motor with them in it in 50 years!