No worries. I’m not say a fan of the fake wood but admittedly after looking at it for 12 years now where pieces are missing it looks weird to me.
Confession?
- Thread starter rover67
- Start date
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I would like to get an accurate weight of the truck before it departs from stock too much more. What is the process for going to a truck stop and getting a weight? Like just drive up and do it? Do they do front vs rear axles? I don’t want to do the pioneer sand thing because I’m the past it’s been pretty skewed it seems
mcgaskins
Rising Sun Member
I use CAT scales, and this locator below helps you find one nearby. There are a bunch off I70, and I've used one off Chambers and I70 a couple times now. At least at the one I used, you just drive up onto the scale, push the button for help, tell them something to identify your truck (it will show up on a printout when you go inside), and they'll ask you if it's a weigh or re-weigh. Apparently a re-weigh is less expensive than a weigh, but I feel like I already stand out enough in a Land Cruiser surrounded by semis so I just say weigh each time
Then you go inside and tell them whatever the code was to identify your truck and they give you a print out and you pay. I want to say it was maybe $12 each time, but the CAT scales are certified regularly and give you a nice printout. I know some people use metal recyclers or whatever, but it's not worth potentially getting a flat or something IMO. Now that I have my front bumper and 35s on, I'd like to go back to a scale and get it weighed again - maybe I'll qualify for a re-weigh since they're starting to recognize me now. 
https://catscale.com/cat-scale-locator/
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Thanks Matt, this is exactly what I was looking for, answers all of my questions! I appreciate it!
Marco, go to the Western trash transfer station on Valmont. Good scales and the ladies that are in the booth are very cool.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I ended up rolling over to Pioneer sand and gravel to just see today since it is ridiculously close to my work and with me in the truck and 5/8 tank of gas it measured 5400lbs. I rolled the front off the scale to see what the rear measured and it was 2620lbs.
This is with 285's the Slee step sliders, and basically nothing else in the car except me.
A little less than I was expecting I think.
This is with 285's the Slee step sliders, and basically nothing else in the car except me.
A little less than I was expecting I think.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Nice! You will love the comfort of the 80 over the 60, though I do think the 60's actually look better. 
I think they wheel even better with some weight on them. The first time I rode with LargeOne out to the Dollhouse, I was blown away how smooth it was compared to the 40. Anyway, if the motor ever goes, don't ride in a 2UZ swapped one or you'll be headed down the dark path again!
I think they wheel even better with some weight on them. The first time I rode with LargeOne out to the Dollhouse, I was blown away how smooth it was compared to the 40. Anyway, if the motor ever goes, don't ride in a 2UZ swapped one or you'll be headed down the dark path again!
rover67
Rising Sun Member
P0401 code is Back!!! Damnit!!!!! But.... in other news:
the Rear brake pads were worn down to the backing plates as indicated by the hellacious metal on metal sound. I took the opportunity to do yet ANOTHER tasty bleed and replaced the rear pads and rotors as well as front pads. Right rear caliper was replaced before I bought it and it seemed fine but the left rear sprang a leak as soon as I pushed the piston back. I rebuilt it with a kit from NAPA and all seems well now. I ended up consulting the great internet’s and using early 100 series pads for the front in a super tasty EBC yellow stuff flavor. Also went with yellow stuff pads for the rear. After driving the 60 the last few days it reminded me how much I love those pads... the 60 will almost put you through the windshield when you hit the brake pedal.
Greg’s gonna love his new pads after a few more days of gentle stops... I had them smoking on sugarloaf this evening... perhaps an aggressive break in?
the Rear brake pads were worn down to the backing plates as indicated by the hellacious metal on metal sound. I took the opportunity to do yet ANOTHER tasty bleed and replaced the rear pads and rotors as well as front pads. Right rear caliper was replaced before I bought it and it seemed fine but the left rear sprang a leak as soon as I pushed the piston back. I rebuilt it with a kit from NAPA and all seems well now. I ended up consulting the great internet’s and using early 100 series pads for the front in a super tasty EBC yellow stuff flavor. Also went with yellow stuff pads for the rear. After driving the 60 the last few days it reminded me how much I love those pads... the 60 will almost put you through the windshield when you hit the brake pedal.
Greg’s gonna love his new pads after a few more days of gentle stops... I had them smoking on sugarloaf this evening... perhaps an aggressive break in?
That’s my preferred pad as well but I run the standard 80 series size.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I love the Yellow Stuff pads. I only wish they would last longer, but all in all they put up do decent torture. Figured why not throw in the 100 series size if they fit.
So far they are almost broken/bedded in with the drive down the mountain this morning. A few more days will have them working much better. I didn't change front rotors since they looked and measured out fine so the fronts will need some extra bedding in time.
Yep Matt, truck's name is Greg!
So far they are almost broken/bedded in with the drive down the mountain this morning. A few more days will have them working much better. I didn't change front rotors since they looked and measured out fine so the fronts will need some extra bedding in time.
Yep Matt, truck's name is Greg!
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Yeah, i did all of those things. Only thing I didn't check was the EGR temp sensor. At least I think that's the only thing I didn't do..
sorry about the CEL... all I remember is pull out that sensor on top with the really crispy 14mm nut on it, and clean that thing really good then shove in it and reset the light. I once got 6 months out of that...
those brakes look pretty though, time for some desert action!
those brakes look pretty though, time for some desert action!
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Easy upgrade. Contacted Daniel Stern and he recommended some new headlight bulbs. They are pretty awesome.
Some GM 9012 HIR2 ones (pn: 23342527) made by Vosla for the low beams and some Phillips 9011 HIR1 ones for the high beams. Both required trimming the bases to fit
Some GM 9012 HIR2 ones (pn: 23342527) made by Vosla for the low beams and some Phillips 9011 HIR1 ones for the high beams. Both required trimming the bases to fit
What took you so long on that one?
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I’ve had the bulbs for a while actually... just getting the house ready for final inspection has taken a lot of time coupled with the lemons race and a few other random things... Time basically..
Did you do an aftermarket headlight harness also? I've found that impact can be as noticeable as upgrading bulbs... totally worth the effort.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I have run them in the past but didn't like how often the relays failed and I am learning less of a departure from stock is usually better. In the 60 for example I took the harness out and ran regular wattage bulbs instead of nutso ones i had forever. Just like this truck. I will add Aux lights when I decide I need more light. I will say that the bulb upgrade has not left me wanting for more light on a daily driver basis. On trails/wheeling sure, more might be better... But like I said i'll do aux lights for that.
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