rover67
Rising Sun Member
I'm headed out that way Saturday, I'll drop you a line on my way home! Thanks Bruce!
Confession?
- Thread starter rover67
- Start date
Stuckinthe80s
Rising Sun Member
Helicoils are plenty strong. They were authorized repair items on certain fasteners for Tomahawk cruise missiles so it will definitely work on this application.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
When a good friend says “you should Time Sert it” and has a kit they are gracious enough to let you use an insert and tools from... you thank them profusely and take them up in it. Threads are repaired axle and knuckle regressed and reinstalled. Calipers, knuckle studs, cap, wheel bearings, and drive flange nuts all checked and torqued/set right. Also Allison hopped down to the garage at 10:30 to help bleed the brakes..... they umm.... really needed it.
It’s not all perfectly clean on the outside but is pretty good on the inside. Yes I’m in a little bit of a hurry and I plan on a nice front axle rebuild in the near future.
It’s not all perfectly clean on the outside but is pretty good on the inside. Yes I’m in a little bit of a hurry and I plan on a nice front axle rebuild in the near future.
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rover67
Rising Sun Member
Next up is to finish the cooling system overhaul and to get the intake back bolted on. Then CB radio install (thanks Bruce!) and the new Slee Sliders I got today. Couldn’t resist... plus Bruce said it... they’ll cost the same later... and you might have a rocker dent under them to stare at..
Then if I have time throw in a ham radio and the fridge. And of course pack.
Then if I have time throw in a ham radio and the fridge. And of course pack.
The turbo is the route I’m going, along with a full engine rebuild. Uncle Ben and others have pointed me towards a V8 swap. If I were doing all the work myself I probably would have gone that route. But Marianne was anime to about paying turn key as my last engine swap took way too long to complete.
With the dyno numbers Joey posted for the Turbo I can’t see any regrets going down that path. An LS swap will have a parts availablility advantage and if you did one with the 6 speed auto you’d get a huge 1st gear reduction for crawling.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Has he posted the AFR's for the dyno runs he's done yet? I'm pretty curious on fueling. Personally it seems like a lot of power from the 1FZ but maybe it's fine. I don't know the motors very well at all. I'm pretty sure I'd want to add methanol injection and an intercooler to his kit. Maybe lower boost. Also possibly back off timing. Guages are also mandatory. I'm also wondering how crack prone things will be (like his J pipe). Also, I'm not sure how the transmission would handle it but I have seen people talking of shift kits for it to mitigate slippage.
This is just me, but I'd consider that kit something that gets you a turbo bolted on with a CARB cert (if he's gotten it yet)... all tuning and engine/tranny loss prevention is up to you and necessary. The major benefit in his kit is the CARB cert and IMHO that's what you are paying for. Otherwise it'd be much cheaper as a roll your own type of thing. You apparently have to get the turbo sized right so it doesn't build boost till the computer goes open loop under certain conditions and is able to provide more fuel. Again, I'm curious on his AFRs.
The conditions we see are different and way harder on stuff than a dyno pull. Running under boost pulling a pass is going to heat things up very quickly. I don't even want to know what the IAT/EGTs go to when towing up a pass. Very different than a person in California doing stop light pulls.
I'm not poo pooing it, just saying I'd be careful to bolt it on and start putting the hammer down with repeated floggage. Pretty sure where we live you'd roast it in short order.
This is just me, but I'd consider that kit something that gets you a turbo bolted on with a CARB cert (if he's gotten it yet)... all tuning and engine/tranny loss prevention is up to you and necessary. The major benefit in his kit is the CARB cert and IMHO that's what you are paying for. Otherwise it'd be much cheaper as a roll your own type of thing. You apparently have to get the turbo sized right so it doesn't build boost till the computer goes open loop under certain conditions and is able to provide more fuel. Again, I'm curious on his AFRs.
The conditions we see are different and way harder on stuff than a dyno pull. Running under boost pulling a pass is going to heat things up very quickly. I don't even want to know what the IAT/EGTs go to when towing up a pass. Very different than a person in California doing stop light pulls.
I'm not poo pooing it, just saying I'd be careful to bolt it on and start putting the hammer down with repeated floggage. Pretty sure where we live you'd roast it in short order.
The thread on MUD would take a couple days to read but the basic answer to all your questions is yes. He has posted some AFR numbers but not in a spreadsheet. He drove the test mule from Flagstaff to LA monitoring those things in real time. No CARB cert yet but in process. That’s a whole other deal. An intercooler is something down the road that he has not formally committed to but I’m pretty confident he will put one out. I’ll probably do a trans shift kit maybe more. But the trans is a pretty solid unit. I’ve also considered methanol injection.
everything you said is completely valid.
The other thing that really pushed me the direction of the turbo is altitude. My truck sleeps at 8100’. It spends much more time over 10,000’ than it does below 5000’. It should make more power at 10K than a normally aspirated V8.
The final cool part of his turbo is that he made room for a York in front of it.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I greased the driveshafts and since the left birf looked kinda dry when I took it apart i pumped a tube of grease into the right knuckle through the fill hole. Hopefully that’ll hold me over. Rechecked all the nuts and bolts on the front axle and threw the wheels back on.
I finally Started the fluid changes. Got both diffs changed out with 80-90 dynoshlog and the t case changed out with 75-90 synthetic. Diffs has a little fuzz on the magnets as expected and from one had some metal shards. Nothing huge just something to watch. No idea where they could have come from. Biggest maybe 2mm long x 1mm wide kinda curly.
T case looked great. Like new. Not used to that!
Up next power steering fluid and a quick drain and fill on the tranny. It actually looks decent so I’m not flushing it...
No cruisers here just a surprisingly expensive amount of fluids. Yikes.
I finally Started the fluid changes. Got both diffs changed out with 80-90 dynoshlog and the t case changed out with 75-90 synthetic. Diffs has a little fuzz on the magnets as expected and from one had some metal shards. Nothing huge just something to watch. No idea where they could have come from. Biggest maybe 2mm long x 1mm wide kinda curly.
T case looked great. Like new. Not used to that!
Up next power steering fluid and a quick drain and fill on the tranny. It actually looks decent so I’m not flushing it...
No cruisers here just a surprisingly expensive amount of fluids. Yikes.
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rover67
Rising Sun Member
Got all the vacuum hoses changed out, new heater control valve, the heater hoses that looked bad, and the vsv and Egr modulator done. The egr vacuum passageway for the small vacuum line in the manifold was rusty and plugged. I also added heat wrap to the wiring loom.
Changed the thermostat just because also.
Got it all buttoned up and started right up. No more check engine light. Idles super smooth now.
I also flushed the power steering system using a variation of the method on Mud and I am in love. I’ll never do it another way again.
Last step tonight easy to throw in the CB, fire extinguisher, tow strap, and first aid kit to be CM legal. Done.
Last step was to pull off the running boards in preparations for the Silder install in the AM.
Then pack.
And pack tools and sores and fluids and everything else I may need.
Oh yeah... maps.
And add coolant. That’s a big one
Changed the thermostat just because also.
Got it all buttoned up and started right up. No more check engine light. Idles super smooth now.
I also flushed the power steering system using a variation of the method on Mud and I am in love. I’ll never do it another way again.
Last step tonight easy to throw in the CB, fire extinguisher, tow strap, and first aid kit to be CM legal. Done.
Last step was to pull off the running boards in preparations for the Silder install in the AM.
Then pack.
And pack tools and sores and fluids and everything else I may need.
Oh yeah... maps.
And add coolant. That’s a big one
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rover67
Rising Sun Member
Finally got out of town at 1 today with Matt’s help. Sliders on all systems go!
Matt it’s the method where you keep the reservoir full with fresh and let the return waste into a container. Engine off and just moving steering wheel lock to lock slowly adding fluid. It’s on Mud in Romers infini-aq. I did it a little differently by using that funnel though. I put the funnel on the return line from the reservoir to the pump and put a drain line on the return out the bottom of the reservoir leading to a drain pan. I did it this way since my return from the pump to the reservoir wouldn't come off... I need to replace that line it is super hard. Held more fluid that way in the funnel and was faster for me.
Matt it’s the method where you keep the reservoir full with fresh and let the return waste into a container. Engine off and just moving steering wheel lock to lock slowly adding fluid. It’s on Mud in Romers infini-aq. I did it a little differently by using that funnel though. I put the funnel on the return line from the reservoir to the pump and put a drain line on the return out the bottom of the reservoir leading to a drain pan. I did it this way since my return from the pump to the reservoir wouldn't come off... I need to replace that line it is super hard. Held more fluid that way in the funnel and was faster for me.
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rover67
Rising Sun Member
Btw started up again no codes, 200 miles in and no coolant loss. No test drive just out of garage and to Moab! That’s matt out front
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Passed emissions with straight 87 octane and no tricks.
Kinda close on CO..
Kinda close on CO..
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Oh and one thing to mention was that it is set at 8* (stock is 6*) on the timing. I checked it prior to leaving for the desert and decided to leave it and see what happened. 8 degrees seems pretty safe given where we live and wheel and especially since folks bump them to that at sea level with no issues. Either way I’m glad it passed
Nice work on passing! And just think, only a couple years until you can get the 5 year collector plate.
32 years.
That's awesome. Best news yet.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Yeah I'm stoked about the emissions.... still removing the wood trim pieces though.. that's been a bear. I've been doing it a little at a time when I'm sitting in the truck not doing anything else. I've just been peeling it off then getting the double sided sticky tape off with my nail, and then the glue with WD-40. It really works a treat and leaves the trim underneath real naaace.
Did yours have the wood trim piece on the back part of the center console. The part that is vertical right below the dash? If so I’d take that piece off your hands.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
It did..... but I removed it and threw it away. I'm sorry Corbet, I really thought there was no reason to keep those :/