Building a Toyota that fits Douglas

[Inukshuk]

I'm talking about a part that slides into the existing hitch to act as a recovery point.

Safe-Xtract SX-RH2.0 Receiver Hitch (up to 10,000 lbs) - Safe-Xtract®

The Safe-Xtract 2" Receiver Hitch is cross-drilled so you can avoid side loading. With a 10,000 WLL, this is the ultimate hitch receiver shackle mount. Metal screw pin bow shackles, synthetic line soft shackles -- it's optimized for it all!

www.safe-xtract.com

Soft Shackle Receiver Adapter, 2.0 size

This 5-axis machined 6061-T6 billet aluminum masterpiece provides the perfect connection for soft rigging into a 2.0" receiver hitch. The SSRA ( Soft Shackle Receiver Adapter) from Brennan's Garage provides the safest, most direct, connection to the pin in a common receiver hitch while using...

brennans-garage.com

Factor 55 has one too.
Anything rated and with a known brand name is good.
Best not to buy on Amazon, though the steel ones are basically probably strong enough being a hunk of steel.
This one bearing the Superwinch brand is probably fine and lowest priced one I see with a decent brand name (though I'd toss the shackle): https://www.amazon.com/Superwinch-2573-Receiver-Shackle-Bracket/dp/B09G7W2HWY

Looking at the rear end of this 3rd gen taco, it seems like there's a lot to drag back there compared to my old 4runner. I'm a bit worried I'll forget I'm driving something much nicer and much less capable 😅😅 Hence wanting as much protection as possible.

 

[DouglasVB]

Safe-Xtract SX-RH2.0 Receiver Hitch (up to 10,000 lbs) - Safe-Xtract®

The Safe-Xtract 2" Receiver Hitch is cross-drilled so you can avoid side loading. With a 10,000 WLL, this is the ultimate hitch receiver shackle mount. Metal screw pin bow shackles, synthetic line soft shackles -- it's optimized for it all!

www.safe-xtract.com

Soft Shackle Receiver Adapter, 2.0 size

This 5-axis machined 6061-T6 billet aluminum masterpiece provides the perfect connection for soft rigging into a 2.0" receiver hitch. The SSRA ( Soft Shackle Receiver Adapter) from Brennan's Garage provides the safest, most direct, connection to the pin in a common receiver hitch while using...

brennans-garage.com

Factor 55 has one too.
Anything rated and with a known brand name is good.
Best not to buy on Amazon, though the steel ones are basically probably strong enough being a hunk of steel.
This one bearing the Superwinch brand is probably fine and lowest priced one I see with a decent brand name (though I'd toss the shackle): https://www.amazon.com/Superwinch-2573-Receiver-Shackle-Bracket/dp/B09G7W2HWY

That super winch one is basically like what I had on my old truck. I forget where I got that old one (it stayed with the truck). Maybe harbor freight? 😅

 

[DaveInDenver]

I know it's not the hip thing but I'm in the "things that need to clearance will show you they need clearance" camp. When an ouch happens you know where you might trim or you just fix it. Having an overhang is the downside of the utility of having a pickup. It's just one moron's opinion that you get a good rear bumper, you drag it, you get used to it.

High clearance is seductive but consider that you have cut your rear fender skirts and figure out a new way to brace them (Toyota put the bracket at the bottom lip) so you're not preserving a stock truck. Yeah, I do have a couple of wrinkles in the rear sheet metal but one happened before I had a rear bumper (bent the bumper, justified replacement!) and the other would have happened anyway (a rock jammed between the tire and wheel well). Dents on the sides of the beds happen no matter what, even if you have exo-cage that can still happen.

I debated on HC but I think I'm sticking with a regular bumper. I think full length skirts just look better, plus I have a Tuffy storage box on one side and a fuse block on the other in that space. So cutting the sheet metal for a HC bumper wouldn't be a simple change for me. So, meh. Different uses. Mine's not a dedicated crawler so secure storage and fridge power is more important than clearance and a better sliding surface to me. Since putting a proper rear bumper on new damage has been minimal and superficial for the most part. Except for the rock that jammed up.

I don't have a lot of first hand experience with those receiver skids but from what I've seen they are just a new and better thing to get hung up on. If your bumper and hitch are stout, just drag 'em and occasionally sand the rust and touch up the paint.

I have a Factor55 adapter but also have an unbranded hunk of steel and a Warn.

I think the intersection of utility and price is the Warn. When I got mine it came with a Crosby shackle, although I don't know if that's still true.

Receiver D-Ring Shackle Bracket, 2" - 29312

This Warn Industries D-Ring Mount has a 3/4 inch pin and is sold individually.

www.warn.com

The Factor55 was a gift and it's certainly bling. The one thing that stands out is being aluminum is it's lighter. You can save a couple of lbs in other places but since I carry it in the Subaru I rather like the lower weight and nicer look. Like Daniel says, it's a hunk of material the keys are the hitch pin and shackle. Don't feel like you have to drop a ton of money on it. Especially if you get a bumper with shackle clevises you won't always even need the adapter but you will need the shackles. And a grade 8 bolt IMO is better than any tow hitch pin.

 

[DouglasVB]

Got the exhaust reroute done today. Next up is installing the rest of the skid plates.

 

[DouglasVB]

Finally getting some more skid plates and whatnot installed today. My progress before lunch includes the transfer skid plate with the catalytic converter guards (the skid plate I received already had pre drilled holes) and wrapping the rerouted exhaust with fiberglass wrap so it won't cook the transfer case actuator box. I also put in the last missing engine skid plate bolt that I purchased a while back.

I was going to do the transfer case skid plate next but it's missing the hardware kit. I emailed RCI about it so hopefully I'll have a kit in the next week.

I also swapped out the rear weather tech floor mat that had been cut up by a previous owner. But the new weather tech floor mat, while it fits just fine, is either lower quality than the original or is a knock off. All the packaging looks legit. It'll work just fine but it is strange. It's thinner material, lower quality material, and does not have the spikes on the back to keep it in place on the carpet floor.

I forgot to post about it, but I added a center console divider and a center console tray a month or so back. I'm thinking about also getting one of those little locking compartments for the underside of the lid of the center console at some point although I'm not sure what I would store in there. Spare chapstick? 🤷‍♀️

I'm going to see after lunch about installing a few more things. Maybe the rear differential skid plate and the shock skid plates. Maybe the sliders if I'm feeling up for it. I've also got bed lights and a power lock for the rear tailgate to install. Oh and bed stiffeners.

 

[DouglasVB]

I ended up installing the tailgate power lock and the bed lights after lunch. I got stymied on the bed stiffeners because I've misplaced my T45 and T55 bits. I've got them on order now. I looked at what needs to happen for the other bits of armor (diff guard and shock guards), and I figured with it getting rainy I should stop for the day.

The tail lights have to pop out to get to the connectors for the bed lights. It's interesting that the harness already was setup for them.

Then I pooped out the little blanks for the bed lights.

And then I installed these little aftermarket bed lights. They're nice and bright. That'll be really nice at night.

Next I installed the tailgate power lock.

The Toyota OEM kit didn't come with the little clip to keep the power lock on the plastic nub so I improvised (the yellow thing). We'll see if that holds over time.

The power lock cable routes along side the reverse camera cable.

There's even a hole in the floor specifically for the cable that goes to the tailgate power lock. It was pretty straight forward to install.

So now I wait for a few tools and a day with nicer weather to do the next parts. Then I'll do the sliders, the bed stiffeners, the diff skid, and the lower shock skids.

I'm still thinking about the u bolt flip kit and changing out the spring hangers. Just need to pull the trigger on them. The biggest hangup is if I can do those myself with hand tools in my driveway.

I'm also still thinking about a rear bumper, and if I want to swap for a different front bumper. Plus I need a winch and a compressor (probably will cut in the driver's side bed pocket to put it there). Oh and a front facing camera. And a 110v plug in the cab. And my various radios (still not sure how I'll mount them in the cab or where I'll put the antennas).

Slowly but surely I'll be ready for summer!

 

[allen.wrench]

Nice job bro! Gets me thinking I'll post up a thread with my build.

I like the look of those skid plates and the rerouted driver exhaust. The spot next to the tranny mount cross member is kinda weird.

Do you think the bed stiffeners are good to have? I don't mean to dismiss their worth, I'm just uncertain if they help a lot and they could get in the way if you're sliding stuff in & out of the bed.

Allen

 

[DouglasVB]

Nice job bro! Gets me thinking I'll post up a thread with my build.

I like the look of those skid plates and the rerouted driver exhaust. The spot next to the tranny mount cross member is kinda weird.

Do you think the bed stiffeners are good to have? I don't mean to dismiss their worth, I'm just uncertain if they help a lot and they could get in the way if you're sliding stuff in & out of the bed.

Allen

Are you talking about the drain hole in the skid plate? It's definitely not in the right place to reach the drain bolt on a manual transmission like I have. I'll have to pull the skid plates for that service.

I'm planning at some point to get a topper instead of the bed cover. What I was reading online made it seem like bed stiffeners are a good idea for that. And maybe even for normal wheeling. The bed isn't metal and seems to have quite a bit of flex.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Looking at the bed on the 91 pickup I can say yes get the stiftners. It is bent outward from years of fun.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Looking at the bed on the 91 pickup I can say yes get the stiftners. It is bent outward from years of fun.

The bed took a beating from the WilderNest. When the lid is shut there's a spring (one in front and back) that serve to help keep it from slamming shut. It puts some outward pressure on the mounts in back especially since the rear opening relies on the truck bed to hold.



The seams open as a result with enough time and jarring. You can see the little diagonal seam under the 'Nest in the above photo is cracked.



Tacomas are even more prone because they are made cheaper. On the 1991 the bed was a double wall steel while the 2005+ Tacoma is a fiberglass-plastic molded job with cosmetic fenders. The tailgate frame is a subassembly. I put a set on and haven't seen any movement with the 'Nest. Prior to them I could flex the walls just pushing on them.

 

[allen.wrench]

Are you talking about the drain hole in the skid plate?

I meant the stock driver side exhaust is routed kinda weird next to the transmission mount cross member. The reroute seems nice. I didn't know about the drain hole. Could you use a 2" hole saw or similar to drill a hole in the right drain location?

@KC Masterpiece, @DaveInDenver, and @DouglasVB gotcha about the stiffeners. Good to know and makes sense. They do also seem to offer more tie down points. I might try some, at least to test them for my own self. It could be that around town when I use the truck for hauling stuff I take them off to slide stuff in & out. Then add them when doing CM or other fun.

With some friends' help about a month ago, we installed Archive Garage hammer hangers and cross tube where my leaf packs bolt into the rear. Going over bumps at speed it's definitely less squirrelly than stock. Seems as Eric at Archive Garage advertises, the leaf packs are now doing more work to flex and staying better planted instead of having the rear end twist & shake.

Do you think bed stiffeners might also help with the rear's squirrelliness?

Allen

 

[DouglasVB]

I meant the stock driver side exhaust is routed kinda weird next to the transmission mount cross member. The reroute seems nice. I didn't know about the drain hole. Could you use a 2" hole saw or similar to drill a hole in the right drain location?

@KC Masterpiece, @DaveInDenver, and @DouglasVB gotcha about the stiffeners. Good to know and makes sense. They do also seem to offer more tie down points. I might try some, at least to test them for my own self. It could be that around town when I use the truck for hauling stuff I take them off to slide stuff in & out. Then add them when doing CM or other fun.

With some friends' help about a month ago, we installed Archive Garage hammer hangers and cross tube where my leaf packs bolt into the rear. Going over bumps at speed it's definitely less squirrelly than stock. Seems as Eric at Archive Garage advertises, the leaf packs are now doing more work to flex and staying better planted instead of having the rear end twist & shake.

Do you think bed stiffeners might also help with the rear's squirrelliness?

Allen

The stock exhaust routing is weird. I'm guessing it was put where it was to provide better access to remove or service the transfer case. Now I'll have to remove a good chunk of the exhaust when I need to do that someday. But it's worth it to not have anything to hang up on.

I could cut a hole to align with my transmission's drain hole although probably more of a rectangle shape would be appropriate because the bolt is on the side of the transmission. It's only four bolts to drop the trans skid plate so it's not completely horrible to do. But since I went with the steel skid plates, these plates are pretty heavy to deal with.

At least the bed stiffeners I got require drilling holes so I'm planning to not remove them once installed. There are a bunch of companies making stiffeners. The ones I got from RCI seem pretty standard in terms of how far up the sides they go but I did see one company (can't remember the name now) that has a set that goes all the way to the top of the bed. I'm not sure how much extra stiffness that gets you or if it's worth it.

How hard was that Archive Garage hanger install? Did you do a u bolt flip kit at the same time? Is it a job that can be done in a day by one person with hand tools? I've got a grinding wheel tool but I don't have a lift. And I won't have an extra set of hands.

Did you just put the spare tire in the bed or did you put it on a swing out carrier on the bumper?

 

[DaveInDenver]

Re: Bed Stiffeners. The ones I got required drilling 3 holes in each tailgate support and you access the bolt head from inside, so you have to remove the tail light housing. You'd have to pull it out each time you want to remove or install them.

It's not difficult but would be a little bit of a PITA. I think the biggest concern I'd have is you'd quickly wear out the tail light plastic where the screws hold it. A couple of times and I bet those break, they weren't made for a lot of cycles.

I find them handy, no regrets and they don't seem to ever get in the way. Mine are ATH.

Bedside Reinforcements / Tie Downs for 05-23 Toyota Tacoma – At The Helm Fabrication

athfab.com

 

[DaveInDenver]

I meant the stock driver side exhaust is routed kinda weird next to the transmission mount cross member. The reroute seems nice. I didn't know about the drain hole. Could you use a 2" hole saw or similar to drill a hole in the right drain location?

@KC Masterpiece, @DaveInDenver, and @DouglasVB gotcha about the stiffeners. Good to know and makes sense. They do also seem to offer more tie down points. I might try some, at least to test them for my own self. It could be that around town when I use the truck for hauling stuff I take them off to slide stuff in & out. Then add them when doing CM or other fun.

With some friends' help about a month ago, we installed Archive Garage hammer hangers and cross tube where my leaf packs bolt into the rear. Going over bumps at speed it's definitely less squirrelly than stock. Seems as Eric at Archive Garage advertises, the leaf packs are now doing more work to flex and staying better planted instead of having the rear end twist & shake.

Do you think bed stiffeners might also help with the rear's squirrelliness?

Allen

Bed stiffeners aren't going to help stiffen the chassis. If you did the cross member and your truck still jumps around I think what you're experiencing is the flex in the frame rails.

Going from the 1991 to a 2001 Tacoma I noticed how much less rigid the trucks were. Adding plates to the walls helped that truck immensely. But on 1st gen this section was a single wall so it's an obvious solution.



On the 2005+ the frame is even more flexible and the solutions not nearly as cheap and easy. Toyota did the double wall from under the cab to over the rear axle like this. So the flex isn't lack of material. It's designed into the frame it would seem.

I found sliders helped but you already I assume have them. Having a camper shell on also helps.

The Archive brace should have helped a little with the torsional but the problem is deflection of the whole rear half. I had to get a tall jack stand to hold the butt end of my truck it's so flexy. If I put jack stands under the frame ahead of the leaf springs and let the rear lever out it would snap my camper shell from the droop.

From what I see the reinforcement needs to be where the frame transitions from boxed to open-C and does the turn up behind the cab.

Toyota Tacoma Frame Brace with Factory Shock Mounts

The Toyota Tacoma is great truck in stock form and is very capable off road machine with some mild modifications. Perhaps the trucks biggest downfall is the factory frame and the amount it flexes. While the lower pivot kit stiffens up the front and the frame box kit reinforces the rear, the...

jdfabrication.com

It's kind of maddening because you can't tune it out with springs and shocks. It's working against you, if you over spring or have too much damping the frame jostles around anyway. Under damping or soft springs and the whole thing is a noodle. If you really push your truck you'll start to find dents in the back of the cab from the bed hitting it.

 

[DouglasVB]

Bed stiffeners aren't going to help stiffen the chassis. If you did the cross member and your truck still jumps around I think what you're experiencing is the flex in the frame rails.

Going from the 1991 to a 2001 Tacoma I noticed how much less rigid the trucks were. Adding plates to the walls helped that truck immensely. But on 1st gen this section was a single wall so it's an obvious solution.

View attachment 127264

On the 2005+ the frame is even more flexible and the solutions not nearly as cheap and easy. Toyota did the double wall from under the cab to over the rear axle like this. So the flex isn't lack of material. It's designed into the frame it would seem.

I found sliders helped but you already I assume have them. Having a camper shell on also helps.

The Archive brace should have helped a little with the torsional but the problem is deflection of the whole rear half. I had to get a tall jack stand to hold the butt end of my truck it's so flexy. If I put jack stands under the frame ahead of the leaf springs and let the rear lever out it would snap my camper shell from the droop.

From what I see the reinforcement needs to be where the frame transitions from boxed to open-C and does the turn up behind the cab.

Toyota Tacoma Frame Brace with Factory Shock Mounts

The Toyota Tacoma is great truck in stock form and is very capable off road machine with some mild modifications. Perhaps the trucks biggest downfall is the factory frame and the amount it flexes. While the lower pivot kit stiffens up the front and the frame box kit reinforces the rear, the...

jdfabrication.com

It's kind of maddening because you can't tune it out with springs and shocks. It's working against you, if you over spring or have too much damping the frame jostles around anyway. Under damping or soft springs and the whole thing is a noodle.

Well I guess I'll add frame braces to my wishlist then 😅 That looks like a multi-day job and I'm guessing require quick access to a well-stocked hardware store for any bolts needed to retain any other added accessories.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Well I guess I'll add frame braces to my wishlist then 😅 That looks like a multi-day job and I'm guessing require quick access to a well-stocked hardware store for any bolts needed to retain any other added accessories.

Those that I linked have you cut off the forward (fixed eye) spring hangers and shock mounts. The kit itself bolts on after that so you don't need to weld it on. It has new spring and shock mounts. I'm a little skeptical that bolting on is going to be rigid enough long term but it's probably no worse.

There are kits to box in the frame that work, too. That takes removing the box, dropping the fuel tank, cutting, welding, etc. That's the right way. I don't think it would have to be boxed all the way back but at least through the upsweeping part. But that would mean boxed from the front doors as well otherwise you move flex under the cab. And I'd think you'd want to box at least to the shocks over the axles.

It would be easier I think to tube the SOB or get a 2024 that I guess Toyota *finally* went back to fulled boxed. Only took them 29 years to realize they'd done it right in the first place. Boxed from the front bumper to the shock cross tube is exactly how the 79-95 trucks were made.

 

[DouglasVB]

Those that I linked have you cut off the forward (fixed eye) spring hangers and shock mounts. The kit itself bolts on after that so you don't need to weld it on. It has new spring and shock mounts. I'm a little skeptical that bolting on is going to be rigid enough long term but it's probably no worse.

There are kits to box in the frame that work, too. That takes removing the box, dropping the fuel tank, cutting, welding, etc. That's the right way. I don't think it would have to be boxed all the way back but at least through the upsweeping part. But that would mean boxed from the front doors as well otherwise you move flex under the cab. And I'd think you'd want to box at least to the shocks over the axles.

It would be easier I think to tube the SOB or get a 2024 that I guess Toyota *finally* went back to fulled boxed. Only took them 29 years to realize they'd done it right in the first place. Boxed from the front bumper to the shock cross tube is exactly how the 79-95 trucks were made.

I've seen a few people making cab-back tube frames when they go to linked suspension in the rear. That's maybe in the distant future for me. I'll need to either get rich or learn how to weld really well for that to become reality.

Boxing the frame seems like an intermediate step to making a tube frame. And bolting on a frame stiffening kit seems like an intermediate step to boxing the frame! 😅

 

[DaveInDenver]

The fundamental question is do you need it? It's flexy but it's more an irritation than a problem. One reason why I haven't done more is my bigger worry is corrosion.

These frames rust really fast and if you're not careful you may end up with rot you can't see or get to. Pulling the sliders (mine are bolted on), de-greasing the Fluid Film, wire brush, prime, paint and re-undercoat is an annual fall weekend. The touch spots where the sliders are little tighter or high spots are always worn to bare metal under them.

I'd think that bolt-on stiffener arrangement would allow a lot of debris and rust under it.

When you box the rear you can't treat it so they rust inside-out. I'd only consider it if I was taking the body off and could have the whole frame cleaned and painted, ideally running through a dip tank.

 

[allen.wrench]

Good stuff Dave! Definitely appreciate your insights. Fair nuff about the bed stiffeners.

Corrosion definitely sucks for any long term ownership. I just recently got a fluid film air gun so I don't have to use rattle cans for major maintenance. Though for touch ups the rattle cans are more convenient and portable.

How hard was that Archive Garage hanger install?

To your Archive Garage questions. It wasn't impossible but far nicer to install thanks to friends' help with extra hands, tools, including a lift, and experience with similar work. The most work was cutting off the stock hangers, drilling, cleaning, primer, and repainting. Then it was just going ham with the man sized Lego set to bolt-on everything new. It can absolutely be done with basic shop tools, (jack, angle grinder, drill, etc.) on a driveway, but based on my experience I'd estimate it will take multiple days. Cold weather would make it slower, lol

Yes I'm carrying my spare in the bed. Leaving it at home if I need to big haul stuff. When offroading I have been doing that anyway because my high clearance bumper leaves the rear tire hanging out exposed. I might do a tire carrier at some point but I have a truck with a functional bed ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯ and I'm not yet a super mall crawler bro, lol

Allen

 

[Johnny Utah]

@DouglasVB Did you decide what you wanted to use for receiver hitch protection? I have been using the WarFab hitch skid for 3-4 years now. It's a burley piece of metal. I originally purchased from them because they are based out of Montrose. Their prices have gone up, but mine was not powder coated when I bought it many years ago. It does decrease your departure angle because it hangs below the receiver hitch a bit. Its not a deal breaker, and it does what its designed to do. I've been bashing it for years without any issues.

Sheridan Hitch skids

These are being built.for us by AJK who did all our machine work for them prior. These are an in stock item ready to ship. They are powder coated in a standard black finish. We are manufacturing these from 2″x2″ square tube with a 1/4″ wall thickness. We weld our recovery clevis to our...

warfabarmor.com

Edit: Since I purchased from them, it seems their product catalog has grown. They have some cool stuff for Tacomas!