And then I took a gander at my fender to see how/if I could use existing holes to mount the manifold etc. And then I realized that my fender has been cut and it's rotting out anyway, so if I need to drill more holes it won't hurt anything 
Brahma On-Board Air
- Thread starter subzali
- Start date
And then I looked for places to mount a little inlet filter. I didn't have a chance to cruise by the auto parts store tonight to check out their options and hopefully to see what the best way is to mount it, so I'll need to do some more headscratching.
I'd hate to drill into the air cleaner, but there are some little screws that I could probably use to mount a bracket that holds the air filter. A little bendy bendy of some sheet metal and it would probably be good to go.
I'd hate to drill into the air cleaner, but there are some little screws that I could probably use to mount a bracket that holds the air filter. A little bendy bendy of some sheet metal and it would probably be good to go.
Attachments
And here's some stuff I got. Still have to get an air hose, might get a cheap one for now and see how long it lasts. It won't be dealing with really cold CO2 like some cheap hoses so maybe it'll be ok for a while. :shrug:
Also learned something new besides the 3/8" vs. 1/4" air connections that we discussed a couple pages back - there are different ends for the quick couplers. I asked the guys there and they said I/M is the most common. T was the other type. So hopefully that's correct.
Upper left: Quick-coupler: $4.99
Upper middle: Quick-coupler plug: $1.99
Upper right: Air chuck: $2.99 - Returned this to get one with a clip.
Middle left: 150 psi relief valve: $10.29 - I guess this might pop off every time my compressor cycles - we'll have to see. Or maybe I'll still get an adjustable pressure switch and keep the pressure down a bit. The pressure switch Marco gave me is huge - maybe I'll just pass it on after I'm done
Middle: 5/8" SAE flare to 1/2" MNPT 90 degree elbow: $8.49 - for the suction side.
Middle right: 1/2" SAE flare swivel: $9.99 - basically two 1/2" flare nuts with a short piece of tube in the middle, pre-fabbed for the discharge side.
Bottom left: 5/8" SAE flare swivel: $9.99 - for the suction side.
Bottom middle: 1/2" SAE flare to 3/8" FNPT: $4.29 - I can get a Viair 3/8" hose and thread it right into this connection on the discharge side. - Returned this because I needed an elbow - not enough room.
Bottom right: 200 psi pressure gauge: $7.99
Total:$61.01 $53.73
Fittings add up
I still need to get an air hose and some barbed hose connectors (Ace didn't have the right size/configuration I needed), plus the manifold etc. obviously. Getting there. Thanks for letting me share every step and every thought, probably annoying to some but hey it's your fault for clicking on the thread
Also learned something new besides the 3/8" vs. 1/4" air connections that we discussed a couple pages back - there are different ends for the quick couplers. I asked the guys there and they said I/M is the most common. T was the other type. So hopefully that's correct.
Upper left: Quick-coupler: $4.99
Upper middle: Quick-coupler plug: $1.99
Middle left: 150 psi relief valve: $10.29 - I guess this might pop off every time my compressor cycles - we'll have to see. Or maybe I'll still get an adjustable pressure switch and keep the pressure down a bit. The pressure switch Marco gave me is huge - maybe I'll just pass it on after I'm done
Middle: 5/8" SAE flare to 1/2" MNPT 90 degree elbow: $8.49 - for the suction side.
Middle right: 1/2" SAE flare swivel: $9.99 - basically two 1/2" flare nuts with a short piece of tube in the middle, pre-fabbed for the discharge side.
Bottom left: 5/8" SAE flare swivel: $9.99 - for the suction side.
Bottom right: 200 psi pressure gauge: $7.99
Total:
Fittings add up
I still need to get an air hose and some barbed hose connectors (Ace didn't have the right size/configuration I needed), plus the manifold etc. obviously. Getting there. Thanks for letting me share every step and every thought, probably annoying to some but hey it's your fault for clicking on the thread
Attachments
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That un used fuel filter would make a great air filter!
That's on the breather hose from my diffs. Guess I should probably clean that up some
I/M is very common. If your cheap hose breaks/blows you can borrow someone elses that way!
Yep, that's exactly why I wanted to get it right. I'm learning a lot about compressed air systems by doing all this, I thought all domestic compressed air systems were pretty much created equal. Shows me
Bought some more stuff today:
Air Hose (50 ft PVC) from Lowe's: $14.02
Manifold from Amazon: $24.02 after shipping
Filter/Coalescer from Amazon: $79.49 after shipping (thanks Nick/AHorseThief!
) - vs. $115 for the one on Kilby's site. This one is made by Interstate Pneumatics, has a metal bowl, and is rated to 300F. Hopefully I don't melt it like Marco did his
Inlet Filter from Amazon: $30.15 after shipping vs. $28 for the one on Kilby's site. This is the same manufacturer (Solberg) as the one on Kilby's site and I'm assuming it's the same model. It has the same thread connection and is rated for 12 scfm. Heck, the one on Kilby's site may be the one rated to 10 scfm, so if that were to be the case this would be an upgrade. The next largest one is rated to 20 scfm and has a 3/4" NPT connection, which I didn't want. Hopefully this will work.
Air Chuck w/clip from Amazon: $10.37 after shipping
1/2" FNPT to 5/8" hose barb from McMaster-Carr: $7.52 - this hose barb size is hard to find, but it's what I wanted because I don't want the hose to collapse. Maybe it will anyway and I'll have to redo the suction stuff.
Had to stop by Ace to correct one of my receipts, return some stuff, and buy some more stuff
Had to get a 1/2" flare to 3/8" MNPT 90 degree elbow: $4.49
Had to get a 3/8" coupling for above because they didn't have the above in FNPT: $4.29
Another quick coupler/plug set: $7.49
A couple hose clamps: $2.58
Some sheet metal for mounting the inlet filter: $6.29
Running total: $236.92 - boy it adds up! More expensive than a Viair, but not yet more expensive than 2
Still have to buy a pressure switch and leader hose with check valve, but that should be about it except for some random street elbows, nipples, suction hose, and mounting hardware. I'll need to find the receipt for the belt, sleeve bearings, compressor oil and teflon tape I had to buy, and the compressor was donated for the project but can be had anywhere from $30-$50 at a junkyard.
Air Hose (50 ft PVC) from Lowe's: $14.02
Manifold from Amazon: $24.02 after shipping
Filter/Coalescer from Amazon: $79.49 after shipping (thanks Nick/AHorseThief!
) - vs. $115 for the one on Kilby's site. This one is made by Interstate Pneumatics, has a metal bowl, and is rated to 300F. Hopefully I don't melt it like Marco did his Inlet Filter from Amazon: $30.15 after shipping vs. $28 for the one on Kilby's site. This is the same manufacturer (Solberg) as the one on Kilby's site and I'm assuming it's the same model. It has the same thread connection and is rated for 12 scfm. Heck, the one on Kilby's site may be the one rated to 10 scfm, so if that were to be the case this would be an upgrade. The next largest one is rated to 20 scfm and has a 3/4" NPT connection, which I didn't want. Hopefully this will work.
Air Chuck w/clip from Amazon: $10.37 after shipping
1/2" FNPT to 5/8" hose barb from McMaster-Carr: $7.52 - this hose barb size is hard to find, but it's what I wanted because I don't want the hose to collapse. Maybe it will anyway and I'll have to redo the suction stuff
.Had to stop by Ace to correct one of my receipts, return some stuff, and buy some more stuff
Had to get a 1/2" flare to 3/8" MNPT 90 degree elbow: $4.49
Had to get a 3/8" coupling for above because they didn't have the above in FNPT: $4.29
Another quick coupler/plug set: $7.49
A couple hose clamps: $2.58
Some sheet metal for mounting the inlet filter: $6.29
Running total: $236.92 - boy it adds up!
More expensive than a Viair, but not yet more expensive than 2 Still have to buy a pressure switch and leader hose with check valve, but that should be about it except for some random street elbows, nipples, suction hose, and mounting hardware. I'll need to find the receipt for the belt, sleeve bearings, compressor oil and teflon tape I had to buy, and the compressor was donated for the project but can be had anywhere from $30-$50 at a junkyard.
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Can someone school me on relays for belt-driven compressors? Marco gave me some input yesterday, but still not convinced I need a relay...
Also, do I need to worry/account for the compressor starting up against a pressurized manifold? Do I need a bleed-off valve?
Also, do I need to worry/account for the compressor starting up against a pressurized manifold? Do I need a bleed-off valve?
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Mine doesn't have a bleed off and it works fine. Bruce runs a bleed off.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Relay for what, the pressure switch or clutch or something? I would use one just to avoid a sensor switch fusing closed. Ergo, with a relay you can wire important actuators as fail safe and reduce current on the primary switch, prolonging its life.
Well here's what I was originally thinking: +12V --> 5A fuse --> dash switch --> pressure switch (rated for 30A) --> compressor clutch. Does that clutch really draw enough current to warrant a relay? Does the clutch draw more current if it has to engage/hold against higher backpressure (higher load)? Or is it just on/off?
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
The clutch is just a coil, basically big version of a solenoid. It takes a certain amount of current at a minimum threshold voltage to hold the clutch engaged and it won't matter the load as such, it's either on or off.
If the voltage drops below the threshold the clutch will disengage regardless of the current. Your circuit could easily have a couple volts of drop, where as a relay right at the clutch could be a volt or less.
Think about it, a fuse + dash switch + 10 feet of wire + pressure switch, that could be 0.5 ohm, which at 5A is 2.5V. You'd have to use heavy wire to keep the drops low and it still might be 0.25ohm at 5A, which is 1.25V. That's before your contacts corrode from the FJ40 being oh so weather tight.
If you use that control circuit to switch the coil of a relay, there might be 250mA flowing, so maybe 0.125V of drop. You could wire that with cheap-o 18AWG and route it where ever the heck you want. Then a 3 foot length of 14AWG from the battery and you're done.
If the voltage drops below the threshold the clutch will disengage regardless of the current. Your circuit could easily have a couple volts of drop, where as a relay right at the clutch could be a volt or less.
Think about it, a fuse + dash switch + 10 feet of wire + pressure switch, that could be 0.5 ohm, which at 5A is 2.5V. You'd have to use heavy wire to keep the drops low and it still might be 0.25ohm at 5A, which is 1.25V. That's before your contacts corrode from the FJ40 being oh so weather tight.
If you use that control circuit to switch the coil of a relay, there might be 250mA flowing, so maybe 0.125V of drop. You could wire that with cheap-o 18AWG and route it where ever the heck you want. Then a 3 foot length of 14AWG from the battery and you're done.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I was thinking since the pressure switch is rated for 30A, just use a nice industrial like toggle switch and avoid more wiring than neccesary.
Nice thing about a relay though is that you can tie it all to a circuit that is normally on and off with the ignition.. then you avoid killing your battery by accidentally leaving it on.
A compressor clutch will draw a battery down to absolutely nothing if you leave it turned on ..
Nice thing about a relay though is that you can tie it all to a circuit that is normally on and off with the ignition.. then you avoid killing your battery by accidentally leaving it on.
A compressor clutch will draw a battery down to absolutely nothing if you leave it turned on ..
Ideally my dash switch would get power only when ignition is "ON" - still have to work that angle though. I think I'll give it a whirl without a relay for now and see how it does. The compressor turns on and off now, so I know I'm not currently getting too much voltage drop, but that's a good point Dave that I'll keep in mind.
I'm not a sparky. I'm scared. This is how I deal with electrical problems:
Actually I'll give it a little more thought today. So if I use a relay, I need fused power for the switch side of things (in case there's a short at some point) and fused power for the clutch? So 2 separate fused circuits? I've never used a relay before.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Not necessarily, with a relay you can tap just about any existing hot or ignition-on circuit for the control side. It's very low current. You hang a fuse from the battery to the relay high side, put the relay right by the battery and a decent wire to the clutch.I'm not a sparky. I'm scared. This is how I deal with electrical problems:
Actually I'll give it a little more thought today. So if I use a relay, I need fused power for the switch side of things (in case there's a short at some point) and fused power for the clutch? So 2 separate fused circuits? I've never used a relay before.
This don't take a rocket doctor to figure out, trust me you can do it. IMVVHO doing it this way helps avoid electrical gremlins. The fewer devices in the high current path the better. OTOH, if it works the way you have it, then not bothering is a valid way. But remember that OEMs use an A/C clutch relay for a reason.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
If yo uare going ot use a dash circuit, you should use a relay......
Or........you know you will need it anyway.....go ahead and put in a accesory fuse box now! That way your rock lights, air comp, fridge and LED array are taken care of!
:evilgrin:
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Or........you know you will need it anyway.....go ahead and put in a accesory fuse box now! That way your rock lights, air comp, fridge and LED array are taken care of!
:evilgrin:
that's actually exactly what I did in my 40. it has one bank that is switched with the ignition... the other is hot all the time.
I use one of the switched circuits for my heated seats