Brahma On-Board Air

[Uncle Ben]

Only going to need air when filling tires, and I won't have a tank for now so there should be no pressure in the system to speak of. KISS for now.

Dooood! If you do not run a pressure switch you CANNOT use an air chuck that is not normally open! If you try to hold pressure in your airline you are going to get hurt! The compressor can produce over 1000PSI which is about 750psi more than the best hose you can buy can contain!

 

[60wag]

In addition to the switch, add a pressure relief valve for safety.

 

[Uncle Ben]

In addition to the switch, add a pressure relief valve for safety.

 

[subzali]

Um, yes I am adding a pressure switch (did you miss post #26?) and a relief valve. Sorry I didn't understand what you were asking earlier UB in post #70. My pressure switch goes between 110 and 150 and I can get a 150 or 185 relief valve.

 

[Uncle Ben]

Um, yes I am adding a pressure switch (did you miss post #26?) and a relief valve. Sorry I didn't understand what you were asking earlier UB in post #70. I think my pressure switch goes between 110 and 130 and I can get a 150 relief valve.

 

[Deerskin]

Matt, I assume you're going to plumb the intake high enough to stay clear of the water crossings. Oil only in these units.

 

[subzali]

Yeah, trying to figure out the best way to do that if I'm not going to pull air through the air cleaner. Need to mount the filter up on the aircleaner somehow I guess. Or on the fender.

 

[corsair23]

Yeah, trying to figure out the best way to do that if I'm not going to pull air through the air cleaner. Need to mount the filter up on the aircleaner somehow I guess. Or on the fender.

Matt, here is how mine is setup...Not sure if it will help. Of course the deepest water my 40 has seen so far is the little creek on Slaughterhouse. But the water would have to be really deep for any to get into my York. I'd be floating in my seat and bigger problems before I think the York would start ingesting water...

 

[60wag]

Mine is similar to Jeff's setup. An important feature is to have a hose that can stand high temp coming off the compressor where there is the most heat. Nak's old setup would blow the hose off the barb fitting when it got hot. Even a really tight hose clamp wouldn't keep it in place.

 

[farnhamstj]

Matt, How's the OBA coming? Better wrap this project up soon. Because, once the baby arrives you will never got to work on anything fun ever again.

 

[subzali]

Um, yes I am adding a pressure switch (did you miss post #26?) and a relief valve. Sorry I didn't understand what you were asking earlier UB in post #70. My pressure switch goes between 110 and 150 and I can get a 150 relief valve.

I looked at my pressure switch again, it runs to 150 psi, so I need to get a little higher rated relief valve I guess. Kilby has one for 185 psi.

Matt, How's the OBA coming? Better wrap this project up soon. Because, once the baby arrives you will never got to work on anything fun ever again.

It's going to be done by April, one way or another. I have to make a purchase of the standard components soon (manifold, pressure gauge, relief valve, hose, chuck, etc.). I'm still doing some headscratching on the fittings from the compressor, trying to figure out exactly what I want to do.

 

[rover67]

I used a 185 psi valve from kilby I think. Also, i got an adjustable pressure switch so I could turn it down for lockers or up for big air. I have ended up leaving it at about 100 psi for the lockers and airing up. it seems to work fine.

Have you thought about drilling out the head and tapping it to accept pipe threads? that's what I did and it works really well.

 

[Uncle Ben]

I used a 185 psi valve from kilby I think. Also, i got an adjustable pressure switch so I could turn it down for lockers or up for big air. I have ended up leaving it at about 100 psi for the lockers and airing up. it seems to work fine.

Have you thought about drilling out the head and tapping it to accept pipe threads? that's what I did and it works really well.

Ditto! I shut off at 105 and on at 85. I also drilled out and tapped the ports for NPT fittings. I also use high pressure/high temp hose and AN fittings. Plumbing through the frame is all sweat soldered 1/4" copper with flex lines at any point of movement.

 

[subzali]

Interesting though, if I go for a tank (from Kilby anyway), they have a MAWP of 150 psi. So the 185 psi relief valve is no bueno.
http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/tanks.htm

I have thought about how to tap the head for alternate threads. Haven't been able to figure out a good solution yet.

I still think I have the 45 degree flare (SAE) on this compressor. The -AN fittings are 37 degree flare. I don't know how to tell exactly what I have, some research I've done says that OEM applications didn't come with -AN, only SAE. You can go from SAE to NPT and back to -AN, but not directly from SAE to -AN. Most of the stuff you can buy from Jegs, Summit, etc. are -AN. Which makes me wonder why did Jegs, Summit, etc. settle on -AN if indeed OEM applications didn't use -AN? It doesn't make any sense.

Another thing, is that both SAE and -AN are tubing based, whereas NPT is obviously pipe based. And all this stuff is limited to about 5/8" or 3/4" sizes on the large end, you don't really see anything larger than that. So the options are somewhat limited depending on what you're trying to do.

sigh.

I'll just throw something together and if it leaks I'll know I made the wrong choice and I'll have to go back and fix it

In all reality, I think I do have a plan though

 

[Red_Chili]

You can get all the relief valving you need at Grainger, including an adjustable one and also any kind of this-to-that adapter you need for NPT, flare, whatever.

 

[rover67]

Yeah, the pressure relief valve is there to keep things from exploding not to keep the system below a working pressure. the pressure switch should keep it below the working pressure.

Pretty sure that a tank rated at 140PSI is gonna be OK to 185.

SAE and AN flares are not the same as you've discovered. AN fittings were developed for the aero space industry specifically to have a low tightening torque for a good seal, and to be simple. Not sure why they departed from the SAE specs for the flare, but the aftermarket picked it all up since it is a very easy to work with system that works well with automotive fluids and supports customization. I bet a wikipedia search would answer the question better.

I'd bet a whole lot of money that anything stock is not going to have a flare that is compatible with a AN flare.

Anyways, they make nice 3/8"NPT to AN adapters that you could use if you wanted to. I used 3/8" NPT fittings and a leader hose from Kilby I think that had 3/8" pipe threads on it.

I bet you could find adapters from and AC place to take the SAE fitting to anything you want probably.

actually here:

http://www.godmanhiperformance.com/index.php?group_id=17

 

[Uncle Ben]

Interesting though, if I go for a tank (from Kilby anyway), they have a MAWP of 150 psi. So the 185 psi relief valve is no bueno.
http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/tanks.htm

I have thought about how to tap the head for alternate threads. Haven't been able to figure out a good solution yet.

I still think I have the 45 degree flare (SAE) on this compressor. The -AN fittings are 37 degree flare. I don't know how to tell exactly what I have, some research I've done says that OEM applications didn't come with -AN, only SAE. You can go from SAE to NPT and back to -AN, but not directly from SAE to -AN. Most of the stuff you can buy from Jegs, Summit, etc. are -AN. Which makes me wonder why did Jegs, Summit, etc. settle on -AN if indeed OEM applications didn't use -AN? It doesn't make any sense.

Another thing, is that both SAE and -AN are tubing based, whereas NPT is obviously pipe based. And all this stuff is limited to about 5/8" or 3/4" sizes on the large end, you don't really see anything larger than that. So the options are somewhat limited depending on what you're trying to do.

sigh.

I'll just throw something together and if it leaks I'll know I made the wrong choice and I'll have to go back and fix it

In all reality, I think I do have a plan though

-AN is an after market industry standard size. Most likely because there are no half sizes. -AN is all increments of 1/16" (-4AN = 4/16 or 1/4") You can adapt to both NPT and MPT.
Here is a pic of my ND compressor in WR. The hoses and fittings here are -6AN with the pipe thread being 1/4 NPT. AN fittings range from 2 to 16. Adapters can be had even for 1 1/2" radiator hose
to -16AN fittings.

 

[Red_Chili]

UB, is that the stock ND compressor that came with the 3.4?

My AC system has a slow leak in the condenser... and being lazy... and having an open vehicle in the summer anyway... and now living at 8K feet and almost never driving in town... I just have not bothered to fix it. I have a perfectly good, reman ND compressor occupying space in the engine bay.

Care to post up YOUR system in more detail?

 

[Uncle Ben]

UB, is that the stock ND compressor that came with the 3.4?

My AC system has a slow leak in the condenser... and being lazy... and having an open vehicle in the summer anyway... and now living at 8K feet and almost never driving in town... I just have not bothered to fix it. I have a perfectly good, reman ND compressor occupying space in the engine bay.

Care to post up YOUR system in more detail?

It is. I have used ND's on WR for years. Very simple set up. I use an oiler mounted high up with the filter on the intake side. (with a 50/50 mix of Marvel Mystery oil and slick 50) I have a mainifold on the drivers firewall that has the safety pop off, the pressure switch and the in line dryer recollecting the compressor lube and condensation. A tee right after that for the ARB solenoid. Then a ball valve for shutting down the storage tank. the line goes through the drivers side frame rail to the back where I have a 3 gallon tank mounted upside down to my floor. The access quick disconnect and gauge are right at my rear cage leg. Very simple and has worked for the last 15+ years. I have gone through three ND compressors in that time and none since I use the Mystery oil/slick 50 juice. It powers my old 1/2" impact gun I keep in the truck fantastically and has tightened many a loose pinion nut on the trail along with countless lug nuts! When wheeling my comp is switch on and I forget it. The only time I notice something up is if my front locker isn't working. Used ND comps put out around 10CFM and are usually $50 bucks at the yards or cheaper if you snag then from folks tossing them.

 

[subzali]

Okay, I should have been studying or doing taxes tonight, but I wasn't. Went to look at my mounting options for various things, and went and bought some more pieces and parts. Need to make a purchase from Kilby soon, but their website was down a while ago...

First I wanted to get an idea of hose routing, so I looked for interference, and generally to see how much room I had. And I know there's a lot to make fun of under the hood here, but it's a work in progress

And for those of you that don't like my power wire to the compressor, well I don't know how to help you. Toyota used bullet connectors in the engine bay from the factory, so I don't see the problem I'll put some wire loom around it when I commission the system