80 series brakes

[VIIIFe]

I fired up the 80 series this morning after it sat for a month while I was out of town. I had planned on trying to get it emissions tested, but I guess it didn't like that idea. It now pulls hard to the left while braking. The more pressure on the brakes, the harder it pulls.

I think the pistons are seizing/seized in the front right caliper. Using a point and shoot thermometer, the front right caliper and rotor were both materially cooler (about 40*F) than the other three corners.

I have done a handful of brake pad/rotor jobs on other cars, but the videos and walk through for the 80 makes it seem like I'll need air tools, etc. to get it done. Plus, I have never had to mess with the wheel bearings to do rotors before. I would prefer to the job myself instead of going to a shop, but I'm also in an apartment complex where they will probably get upset if they hear me banging around on the rotors with a hammer since I'm not supposed to work on my cars. Think it's feasible to do quietly, including separating the hubs/rotors? Will a poor man's hand tools be enough to get it done? Any other suggestions?

 

[jps8460]

If your rotors are in "turnable" condition, you do not need to separate them from the hub assembly. The auto parts store will turn it as an assembly, and you'll be good to go with a new seal and a repack.

Its a pain to separate quietly without a shop press.

Unfortunately, it can be kind of difficult to know wether or not they can be turned without removing them, unless they are obviously thin or gouged.

If you are going to attempt it I would line up a shop that will swap rotor for you just in case, so your effort isn't in vain.

You will need the enormous socket for the spindle nut. Air tools are nice, but I don't think they are entirely necessary.

 

[LARGEONE]

I ended up buying refurbished Toyota(aisin) calipers for not much more than the rebuild kit. I wish I had painted them before mounting, but other than that they have been great. The rotor and hub is pretty easy.

 

[Corbet]

Personally I would not bother rebuilding a stuck caliper. I've been super happy with my NAPA remanufactured calipers up front. And they came painted. Been on the truck for 60K with no issues.

Rotor is not really that bad to pull either but I know the HOA routine, it sucks. However Again I'd just replace them. The 80 is a heavy pig and turning them is kind a waste of time IMHO given the amount of work involved to remove them. Your thinning to the metal and reducing the amount of mass to absorb heat. Probably end up warping them sooner than later as a result. (kind of depends on how the truck is built)

 

[VIIIFe]

Thanks for the input. The HOA/rules are only temporary (at least that's the plan), but it sucks in the meantime. I'll probably bite the bullet and look into getting it done by SLEE, ATLR, or Stevinson. Any recommendations on one over the other? Might as well check a few things off the to do list and get the birfs replaced at the same time since they occasionally click in cold weather on right turns.

 

[LARGEONE]

All are very reputable...it's gonna cost you some serious coin if you get into replacing birfs

 

[Corbet]

If you just replace the pads and rotors you can do the job in a couple hours, Friend's house? Family member?

I used to just fix my crap in the parking lot of the town home up in Frisco despite the rules. But I was good friends with the HOA president and he was an auto enthusiast as well. Honestly I'd wager unless someone complains no one would say a word if you just did it at home.

 

[simps80]

i do think the 100 series pads are worth it too btw..kinda off topic but not too much

 

[Inukshuk]

Swap the front calipers to be safe while you consider the bigger projects.

Front calipers without removing rotors - a few hours. Soak first with a PB blaster. Clean all threads and bolts thoroughly and reassemble with blue locktite - LC80 front caliper bolts are known to strip (ask me how I know) and then can back out (ask me how I know) and fall out (ditto).


*** Pre CM WBPP anyone? (that's short for pre Cruise Moab Wheel Bearing Parking Party anyone?) ***


Over 14 years and 150,000 miles, I'd changed brake pads many times (100 series in front), front rotors once (to slotted and drilled Slee sells), rear rotors never, and calipers never. Last year I changed all rubber hoses, all calipers, and rear rotors.

Calipers are easy. Bolt on, bolt off. Bleed system. Beck Arnley remans from Western Automotive / Import Pars Warehouse 501 Kalamath Street, Denver, CO, (303) 825-2000 well recommended. I used remans from Toyota in front as I had planned on replacing them and had lead time to order. I used NAPA on the rears as they were last minute after I had opened it up. I used Advance Automotive rotors on rear for same reason (Fit and finish was good, performance fine, and under $40 each). The NAPA re-mans had nicer fit and finish than the Toyota and were identical to the Toyota castings I removed. Time will tell.

All rubber hoses were OEM. What I removed, though 22 years old, were visually perfect. Hoses were most of a weekend with some breaks.

Rears were an all day project but I also replaced the bearings. To R&R only rear rotors does not require hub removal but does require handbrake adjustment, perhaps cleaning internals and new shoes while you are there. Shoes are surprisingly costly but last a very long time.

After all this work plus a final bearing adjustment by Robbie (and after I replaced all 14 control arm bushings and the panhard bushings), the truck drives like a dream, brakes smoothly and in a straight line. No fighting it.

 

[VIIIFe]

I'm going to go out on a limb and assume this was the guy giving me issues. Pads and rotors have tons of life left so I'm not going to mess with them.

If I go buy a reman, would anyone be open to helping me bleed by brakes in Lakewood in the next few days or week? Don't have a speed bleeder, and I'm brand new to town with no one to help out. Forever alone until my girlfriend moves out here in a few months .

 

[nuclearlemon]

i can't get down there, but you're welcome to come here to commerce city, do the work and then i'll help bleed. no hoas here and i'm home most weekends wrenching and swearing at some sort of toyota or japanese engineer.

 

[VIIIFe]

Beats swearing at the German engineers. Sweet, thanks for the offer. I might take you up on that if you're free next weekend.

 

[subzali]

I'm in Littleton and could make time to stop by and help you bleed the brakes

 

[Inukshuk]

I'm in Sloan's Lake. If you are in a close by part of Lakewood this could work. Schedule for the week uncertain.

 

[nakman]

Wait- so you were missing the pad? And all the little retaining clips, etc.. yeah, I think that's your problem. Those are generally purchased separate, iirc., not included with the pads. Stevenson West definitely knows the part numbers- ask me how I know!

 

[VIIIFe]

If only it were that simple .

I buttoned it back up last night hoping to be able to limp around for Thursday and Friday since my other car is on summer tires and snow is on the horizon. The brake pedal wouldn't hold pressure and would slowly drop to the floor. This morning, it only slowly drops to about halfway to the floor. Might be taking a 2wd, non-Toyota vehicle to Wednesday night's meeting .

 

[VIIIFe]

Spent a few hours putting in the new calipers in on Saturday morning followed by an entire afternoon of bleeding the brakes. After all that, it still pulled left while braking. The calipers from Stevinson didn't include any hardware, so I just swapped out the old pins/retainer spring with a couple dollars in parts from O'Reilly tonight, and we're back in business. Glad to have that sorted out.