Sometimes you have to work on the other junk. Both Subaru’s getting F/R differential oil changes.
Last edited:
-
THIS FRIDAY, MAY 1st is the LAST DAY...- ...to buy your ColoYota Expo t-shirt in advance, make sure you get the size you want, and save $5.
- ...to register as an exhibitor at the Expo and get your company logo on the official event shirt.
What have you done to your rig today?
- Thread starter HoneyBadger
- Start date
Read your comments voicing your displeasure with Subaru engineers. Be glad it isn’t an early ‘90s Jaguar. Took me eight different size wrenches to remove the radiator from a V12 XJS. Metric, SAE and Whitworth which I was able to cover with an adjustable wrench.Sometimes you have to work on the other junk. Both Subaru’s getting F/R differential oil changes.
Oh I know Subaru is far from the worst offender. They are easier to work in than most. The Impreza was far better than the Outback. Both rear plugs were the same and it only took two different tools up front.
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
Truck felt hotter wheeling in Moab at the pre-run and A/C performance was not good on-trail. Truck temp gauge did not get too hot (all 80 temp gauges have a middle "dummy" spot where it does not move much. Can be modified and I did in LongCruiser but not here). Over 30MPH A/C was comfortably cold. A/C system is in good shape.
Saturday:
Re-did the foam at sides and bottom of 80 radiator (that I should have installed when I replaced the radiator two weeks ago) and added a 2x2" piece under the A/C condenser that seems to have been something that maybe existed from the factory a million years ago (it would help more air flow through condenser when not moving) and a 2x2" piece under the radiator that also may have been from the factory a million years ago (and may help keep some engine compartment air from recirculating under and back out front. I already had the top foam that is very important to keep hot engine compartment air from recirculating. Added much thinner and more compressible foam between fan shroud and radiator.
Installed Landtank modded new fan clutch (modded to verify and slightly lower the temperature it starts to engage - a empirically determined temp - and changed to 15,000 CST silicone oil for stronger engagement when engaged)
Saturday:
Re-did the foam at sides and bottom of 80 radiator (that I should have installed when I replaced the radiator two weeks ago) and added a 2x2" piece under the A/C condenser that seems to have been something that maybe existed from the factory a million years ago (it would help more air flow through condenser when not moving) and a 2x2" piece under the radiator that also may have been from the factory a million years ago (and may help keep some engine compartment air from recirculating under and back out front. I already had the top foam that is very important to keep hot engine compartment air from recirculating. Added much thinner and more compressible foam between fan shroud and radiator.
Installed Landtank modded new fan clutch (modded to verify and slightly lower the temperature it starts to engage - a empirically determined temp - and changed to 15,000 CST silicone oil for stronger engagement when engaged)
justcruisin
Wincher
There's supposed to be foam around the radiator? Now you have me questioning the POs "new radiator" installation. If it's anything like all the other "upgrades" he did, I bet he just omitted them.
Attachments
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
Some for sure! See my thread at https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/go...-condenser-and-radiator.1378701/post-16279136
justcruisin
Wincher
Thanks for the pictures, Daniel! It figures I don't have any of those on my cruiser! And thank you for the links to Amazon. Saved me a bunch of time!
Cruise Moab last minute prep! Oil change and new pads and rotors on the LX and finally remembered to replace the air filter that is very full of Moab trips. New drop hitch for the trailer 
Lots of little things on the 40, put the hard doors back on and they needed some tuning up. Bled the clutch cylinders and she shifts smoother than ever. Topped off the tranny and tcase. We are just about ready to leave for Moab!
Lots of little things on the 40, put the hard doors back on and they needed some tuning up. Bled the clutch cylinders and she shifts smoother than ever. Topped off the tranny and tcase. We are just about ready to leave for Moab!
dan1554
Rising Sun Member
I made a mistake on 'not my rig' during assembly and didnt pay attention to bolt lengths on the timing cover. I used a bot just a couple mm too long in the wrong spot, and it pushed the timing plate away from the block and broke the seal. I was really dragging my feet on what to do about it. It was a pretty substantial leak but after moving the bolts to the correct spot, it came down to a quarter size drop after parking it. Was leaning toward just refunding some of the labor to the owner so they can deal with it if they were ever in there. If it were my rig, I probably would have left it alone. Got a drip pad or something and lived with it. But since someone is paying me for the work, I didn't feel great about that option. Shes in no rush to get it back so I bit the bullet. I will NEVER make that mistake again if I work on another 2f. To get the plate off and replace the gasket, the cam has to come out. That of course means a lot of things have to come apart. Rockers, lifters, distributor, fuel pump, etc. And to get the cam out I had to jack the engine up with a 2x4 so it would clear. FUN.
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Oooof! Thanks goodness I've never done that one, yeah they're different lengths and have to be in the right spots. FSM and Haynes are both good about pointing that out. And of course you have to use sealant on the threads of the lower larger bolts.
dan1554
Rising Sun Member
Yeah it was one of those last mile things I couldn't imagine possibly going wrong so the fsm wasn't referenced for that step. Oooooops.
I still shake my fist at whoever engineered the timing plate.
I still shake my fist at whoever engineered the timing plate.
Cruise Moab fix! Darn clutch on the 40 is leaking somewhere so need to refill and rebleed before the finale Sunset Cruise tonight. Weather cleared and it is a sunny beautiful day in Moab!
KC Masterpiece
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- May 4, 2019
- Messages
- 2,078
Replaced the stereo in the 80. Moved the original rosens back to the 80. Installed the new bigger ones in the 60.
74fj40
Hard Core 4+
Garage is cleaned out, ready to do some pre-season maintenance.
I bought the 80 a new front axle.
Ruff Stuff housing set up for a 9.5” 3rd member.
I have a 9.5 third on the shelf. I’ll need to regear and lock.
All my steering will work with this axle. My RCV’s should work too.
This winters project.
Install this axle
Lower the 80 2”
Redo the 3 link.
Cut fenders, add 40’s.
Hydro assist
Ruff Stuff housing set up for a 9.5” 3rd member.
I have a 9.5 third on the shelf. I’ll need to regear and lock.
All my steering will work with this axle. My RCV’s should work too.
This winters project.
Install this axle
Lower the 80 2”
Redo the 3 link.
Cut fenders, add 40’s.
Hydro assist
Last edited:
DBA Rotors and Brakes Pads all around
My e-brake was a bit loose so I put the 200 rear axle on Jack stands and adjusted the ebrakes. Damn that Star wheel is hard to see. I adjusted to a hard stop and backed off until they started moving. One video said two clicks, one said 5. I played with it and until it felt good.
Tested it and the ebrake still was loose.
I would put it in drive with the ebrake engaged and it would slowly move
Then removed the cup holder and adjusted the nut with the brake disengaged.
Now it will hold the vehicle in Drive or Reverse with no gas. It will move slightly if you apply throttle
Pretty sure that shows it is working fine. To double check I went to check the TLCA Vehicle requirements for Cruise Moab and they don't list any for an Automatic, yet we have it on our Vehicle Inspection list.
Tested it and the ebrake still was loose.
I would put it in drive with the ebrake engaged and it would slowly move
Then removed the cup holder and adjusted the nut with the brake disengaged.
Now it will hold the vehicle in Drive or Reverse with no gas. It will move slightly if you apply throttle
Pretty sure that shows it is working fine. To double check I went to check the TLCA Vehicle requirements for Cruise Moab and they don't list any for an Automatic, yet we have it on our Vehicle Inspection list.
BritKLR
Vice Commander
Well done.
You bring up a valid point of updating some of the inspection items to meet current vehicles.
I guess my question is, is the inspection to educate or protect, both the operator and CM?
I had a lovely conversation with Christo and learned the history of the Tech Inspection and how it came about. The E-brake inspection was to address all the old trucks (40, mini, 55, 60, etc....) that used to attend that had non-functioning or poorly functioning e-brakes. It appears a lot has changed with e-brakes and the types of vehicles that attend in the last 20 years.
Thanks for mentioning this.
Last edited:
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Interesting. I assumed it was substantially the 40 and 55 with the t-case parking brakes that are the prime suspect. Not that the style with the bell crank and star wheel on the rear drums are that much better.
I think the fact that so many trucks have automatics now the parking brake inspection is just as critical as ever. If you drive a stick you know when your parking brake is less than good, usually evidenced by the 4x4 you have at the ready when you park.
With an automatic you can ignore it more easily and I bet a fair number of auto owners don't even set their parking brakes routinely or at least realize they are out of adjustment and you can drive through them.
BritKLR
Vice Commander
Valid point, unfortunately on the newest vehicles with electric e-brakes they automatically disconnect when put in drive so you can't actually test it. You can test the service brakes but not the e-brake.