I carry a pretty full set. SST’s I need to do a full tear down on my front axle (80 series) along with OBD scanner, voltmeter.
What have you done to your rig today?
- Thread starter HoneyBadger
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KC Masterpiece
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I have one of my rear drawers packed with tools. As long as they are there I will never need them.
rushthezeppelin
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Good point, take advantage of Muphy's Law here. Not sure I want to do a full on drawer system but I wonder how I could secure a largish toolbox and maybe some torque wrenches in their boxes (I'd be more worried about these than anything, don't want to bump them so hard it knocks them out of calibration ><). I already carry a not yet loaded up tool bag that would be perfect for the odds and ends things like tie rod/pitman arm/ball joint puller or other smaller specialty tools.
Sounds similar to me. I have enough tools that I can pull a differential on the trail for something like a broken pinion or pulling the front axle apart. This includes your typical sizes of wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, and pliers. It all fits into a smallish toolbox except for the 54mm socket and voltmeter.
I’ve got a modest sized craftsman tool box now that limits my tools. They fit in there or don’t go. My drawers should show up next week and my goal is to slim down a little more so all tools, recovery, random camp gear (lights) and the very very few spare parts I carry fit in one drawer. The other will be reserved for food/cooking gear. As far as torque wrenches I keep an inexpensive Craftsman in the truck. It’s been bouncing around for a decade. The SnapOn’s stay at home.
rushthezeppelin
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Lol not saying I have snapon (I'm too poor to run up debt with the red and white truck lol). I literally have 2 Pittsburgh ones and I had to grab the quinn one that goes up to 250 to complete my cv job. Apparently ProjectFarm youtube channel did a test on them and everything from pittburgh up seems to get the job done although the fit and finish is going to vary A LOT. The Pittsburgh ones are a PITA to adjust and exercise and the Quinn which is HFs middle of the road line is actually pretty darn nice (it's still a pain to exercise it but it's better than no torque wrench) and came with a much nicer case. I think the big thing is that you really need to not bang them up and get them calibrated in a reasonable amount of time (I can't imagine how long it will take me to get to 5k clicks but I'll probably look at sending it in every 1.5-2 years or so) like any torque wrench. I hate to admit how much I love that Chinamart but it seems like they have their stuff down for handtools (don't know if I would ever trust their powertools though). Hard to beat when you don't have a ton of money and you aren't seriously wrenching probably more than 20 days a year. I mean heck I probably already paid for the 305 piece toolbox just with labor saved on this CV job. Still want to not beat up those torque wrenches though.
My SnapOn torque wrenches were acquired at an estate sale for the record. But I do like them 😉. Admittedly I have a bad tool fetish. I wouldn’t worry too much about them bouncing around as long as they are stable inside a tool box. Mine just sits in the top tray with other ratchets and a breaker bar.
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I added the Lutz Auto Speedometer correction module to my 80. Works like a charm. I had been looking for what gear to get to correct the speed on the speed sensor, and finding one was looking to be pretty hard, then stumbled on this. Totally plug and play, and a 5 minute install. I was 10% high from 35s and 4.88s, and now the speed it dead on.
www.lutzauto.com
Landcruiser 70/80/100/105 & LX450/LX470 Speedometer Calibrator/Correction Device | Lutz Auto
The Lutz Auto 70/80/100/105 Series Landcruiser Speedometer Calibrator can calibrate your speedometer to display the correct speed, compensating for any modification that affects the speedometer calibration (ie. tire size and gearing changes). No complicated dip switches to deal with and no...
www.lutzauto.com
If my thinking is correct then this would also correct the odometer being off?I added the Lutz Auto Speedometer correction module to my 80. Works like a charm. I had been looking for what gear to get to correct the speed on the speed sensor, and finding one was looking to be pretty hard, then stumbled on this. Totally plug and play, and a 5 minute install. I was 10% high from 35s and 4.88s, and now the speed it dead on.
Landcruiser 70/80/100/105 & LX450/LX470 Speedometer Calibrator/Correction Device | Lutz Auto
The Lutz Auto 70/80/100/105 Series Landcruiser Speedometer Calibrator can calibrate your speedometer to display the correct speed, compensating for any modification that affects the speedometer calibration (ie. tire size and gearing changes). No complicated dip switches to deal with and no...
the odo gets it's data from the speed sensor, so it should.
His multi gauge clock replacement is on my list.
www.lutzauto.com
Multi-Gauge Clock Replacement for FZJ80/LX450 | Lutz Auto
This completely plug and play multi-gauge is available for 95-97 FZJ80/LX450 with 1FZFE Gasoline engines. This is a full featured OBD2 compatible touch screen gauge system that replaces the factory clock. This product is plug and play and uses a simple Bluetooth OBD2 dongle to transmit OBD2 data...
www.lutzauto.com
rushthezeppelin
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If only us 3rd gen 4runner owners would get some love...I added the Lutz Auto Speedometer correction module to my 80. Works like a charm. I had been looking for what gear to get to correct the speed on the speed sensor, and finding one was looking to be pretty hard, then stumbled on this. Totally plug and play, and a 5 minute install. I was 10% high from 35s and 4.88s, and now the speed it dead on.
Landcruiser 70/80/100/105 & LX450/LX470 Speedometer Calibrator/Correction Device | Lutz Auto
The Lutz Auto 70/80/100/105 Series Landcruiser Speedometer Calibrator can calibrate your speedometer to display the correct speed, compensating for any modification that affects the speedometer calibration (ie. tire size and gearing changes). No complicated dip switches to deal with and no...
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
May install one on LongCruiser today, when it warms upI added the Lutz Auto Speedometer correction module to my 80. Works like a charm. I had been looking for what gear to get to correct the speed on the speed sensor, and finding one was looking to be pretty hard, then stumbled on this. Totally plug and play, and a 5 minute install. I was 10% high from 35s and 4.88s, and now the speed it dead on.
Landcruiser 70/80/100/105 & LX450/LX470 Speedometer Calibrator/Correction Device | Lutz Auto
The Lutz Auto 70/80/100/105 Series Landcruiser Speedometer Calibrator can calibrate your speedometer to display the correct speed, compensating for any modification that affects the speedometer calibration (ie. tire size and gearing changes). No complicated dip switches to deal with and no...
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
You fancy OBDII people!His multi gauge clock replacement is on my list.
Multi-Gauge Clock Replacement for FZJ80/LX450 | Lutz Auto
This completely plug and play multi-gauge is available for 95-97 FZJ80/LX450 with 1FZFE Gasoline engines. This is a full featured OBD2 compatible touch screen gauge system that replaces the factory clock. This product is plug and play and uses a simple Bluetooth OBD2 dongle to transmit OBD2 data...
Could probably pipe Toyobd1 to a display like that with enough desire and electronics whiz-bang
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
Some Overlander probably has
rushthezeppelin
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Had my 4wd light not coming on during the cold (light is supposed to come on when my vacuum powered ADD engages I know tcase engages since that's purely mechanical), got the front passenger in the air with in 4wd and the light not on though and confirmed that ADD is working. Probably just the switch, going to pop it off and clean it up at some point so that I get pretty green light in the cold.
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
Installed Hawk LTS pads on LongCruiser. Discovered:
The discs look like new after the bed in process. My neighbors surely think I'm crazier than ever, tearing around the neighborhood and slamming on the brakes. Had to go to the non-snowy roads for this. Sure I'd like it to stop like a sports car, but at least to stop like a regular 80 would be nice. I'll find out next dry day.
This week ordered
- I need a proper retaining spring on one front caliper (pins are fine so no crisis but will order)
- I need proper retaining wire (that goes through the pins) on both. Really PO you used cotter pins?
- One rear caliper slide pin was pretty stuck but now all fixed!
The discs look like new after the bed in process. My neighbors surely think I'm crazier than ever, tearing around the neighborhood and slamming on the brakes. Had to go to the non-snowy roads for this. Sure I'd like it to stop like a sports car, but at least to stop like a regular 80 would be nice. I'll find out next dry day.
This week ordered
- all sway bar hardware for the 100
- rear pads for the 100
- 140 amp Jaguar alternator for LongCruiser
BritKLR
Rising Sun Member
Cold weather lesson:
Sometimes you just forget how old a car battery is and that they don't last as long as they use too and can do really weird things when they go bad. For the life of me I couldn't figure out, after tuning up the 55, why it wouldn't run/idle right!?! It would start, sputter and then die. It would run fully choked but, then die when unchoked.....I checked everything again and then finally checked the battery and it was showing 18 volts, not running!?! Have no clue how or why a battery would show that high of volts and yet not run the engine. I looked and the battery was from 2008 and figured it had lived a good life and needed to be replaced.
So, I decide to put a new battery in and this is a second lesson. O'rielly's wanted $179.00 for a #25 battery....dam that seemed expensive so, I ran down to Costco and got a #25 Interstate Battery for $89.00! Got it home, dropped it in and the Pig started on the first crank, idled perfectly and ran without the choke and charges at just over 13/14 volts.
Something about that old, failing battery caused the engine to behave badly!
Sometimes you just forget how old a car battery is and that they don't last as long as they use too and can do really weird things when they go bad. For the life of me I couldn't figure out, after tuning up the 55, why it wouldn't run/idle right!?! It would start, sputter and then die. It would run fully choked but, then die when unchoked.....I checked everything again and then finally checked the battery and it was showing 18 volts, not running!?! Have no clue how or why a battery would show that high of volts and yet not run the engine. I looked and the battery was from 2008 and figured it had lived a good life and needed to be replaced.
So, I decide to put a new battery in and this is a second lesson. O'rielly's wanted $179.00 for a #25 battery....dam that seemed expensive so, I ran down to Costco and got a #25 Interstate Battery for $89.00! Got it home, dropped it in and the Pig started on the first crank, idled perfectly and ran without the choke and charges at just over 13/14 volts.
Something about that old, failing battery caused the engine to behave badly!