Bender - The Silver 60

KC Masterpiece

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May 4, 2019
Messages
1,449
I have now had some time to crawl around the truck in detail. Jason really did amazing work. Paint is 9.8/10. A repaint will never look like a factory job but this did amaze me. So much better than the respray on the 80.

The frame and undercoating are super well done.

This is not a 100% pefect frame off resto job like Proffits is doing, but for the price I think its a better deal. I wont feel afraid to daily drive when the roads are good and do some light low risk wheeling and camping.

Work is far from done. The interior is still gutted and a front axle rebuild is on the short list. Carpet is here but I have not settled on sound reduction yet. I have a good headunit picked out

I was thankful for the 5 speed on the way home. One of the reasons I bought this truck. Not too bad holding 70 as long as its flat. Actually did some passing on 70 today.

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The 80 got kicked out of the garage.
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Rzeppa

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Messages
8,400
Location
Kittredge CO, USA
Before I sell mine (yes I intend to when I buy my 250 series this year) we should do a side by side photo shoot, just as Steve H and I did with our 45s in my driveway several years ago. He remarked that his beautiful 45 was too nice to drop a load of wood or gravel into the bed as mine was rougher. Remember that Steve?

Kevin I just noticed your odo at 164k. When I bought my rust-free Arizona truck in 2011 it had 163k. Mine now has 220k and you've seen what that much mag chloride has done to my frame. It took many hundreds of thousands of more miles to do that to the body of my 1976 FJ40, but the frame on that one wasn't near as bad since back in those days they just used conventional sodium chloride.

I am channeling Steppenwolf. Instead of God Damn the Pusherman, I'm thinking God Damn Mag Chloride.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmdDMGp8IS8


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmdDMGp8IS8
 

KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,449
@Rzeppa we can absolutely get them together at some point.

I do not think this truck will ever see much mag chloride. Having a winter beater is such a blessing.
 

KC Masterpiece

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May 4, 2019
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Getting ready to start some interior work. A busy work schedule, marathon training, and a new puppy has slowed things down.

Kilmat for the interior is here! Not sure what the plan is for the 2nd layer yet. I have decided not to deal with drop the headliner since it is in such good shape. Hope I do not regret that. I need to do a little bit more interior cleaning before I can start laying down the killmat.

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And we have an official name for this build. I was very disapointed that the vanity plate was already taken. I am not a big sticker guy especially on a truck this clean, so this will be going in the glovebox.

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BITE MY SHINY METAL......
 

RDub

Locked
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
271
Location
Boulder, CO
Nice. I had decent luck carefully cleaning my fuse door decal with Awesome and a rag. Colors look like new. But…no luck removing the bubbles. Tried a heat gun and a few other minor tricks but nothing worked. I’d be interested in learning if other folks have figured out to flatten those old decals.
 

KC Masterpiece

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May 4, 2019
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I think this is not OEM... but a good solution. $16 from city racer.

Original sticker came off in one piece. Typical Toyota quality.
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Also ordered a new spedo cable and seal. Hope that will solve my jumpy needle issue and the tiny leak from the t case.
 
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KC Masterpiece

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For those of you that have done the butyl sound deadener. If the factory sound dampening material is in good shape is there any reason to remove or can I go right over it? @fyffer Did you pull all of yours? I have seen the dry ice method but wonder if it is really worth it. The only material that was in bad shape has already been removed.

Im thinking just treat any surface rust, degrease, degrease, degrease again, and start laying down some killmat?
 

fyffer

Rising Sun Member
Joined
Sep 22, 2019
Messages
477
Location
Trinidad, CO
For those of you that have done the butyl sound deadener. If the factory sound dampening material is in good shape is there any reason to remove or can I go right over it? @fyffer Did you pull all of yours? I have seen the dry ice method but wonder if it is really worth it. The only material that was in bad shape has already been removed.

Im thinking just treat any surface rust, degrease, degrease, degrease again, and start laying down some killmat?
Left all factory dampening in, cleaned it really good. Thought about the dry ice technique though. Got some various size rollers for application of that sticky sound deadener. It does have a little give as well, contoured great to all flooring. Cutting and application of the deadener should be done in cold Temp is my best advice. Hope I never have to remove it, sticky as nothing else.
Good luck and post progress, great thread.
 

Nate

Lifted
Joined
Nov 21, 2022
Messages
144
Location
Aurora, CO
I'm in contact with The Rust Doctor and need hear what Jason has to say but this thread has pretty much made up my mind. Amazing 🤩
 

KC Masterpiece

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Well looks like I will be pulling more factory deadening. Started removing the jute with a dry brush. Once I got to degreasing the deadner bubbled as soon as some purple power touched it... interesting....

A few very minor surface rust spots inside. Thinking they will get a quick POR15 treatment.

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KC Masterpiece

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Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
1,449
Started laying down some kilmat!

Very thouroughly degreased and cleaned with purple power. Then alcohol. Probably overkill as this stuff sure is sticky. It is pretty easy to work with.

All of the spots with painters tape have minor surface rust. I am just going to clean and treat that with the ruseoleum primer I have tons of. Its getting covered with kilmat anyways.

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