The Projects

[kurtnkegger]

Matt, I purchased the same heater kit from Shane. My foam was short too. I improvised like you did to make it all work. I thought maybe I didn't do something right, and that's why I was short...Until I saw your post.

 

[subzali]

Some new progress was made today:

Got the rest of my hardware to mount my fuel vapor separator protector and my rear heater

Also got my new hose clamps for the fuel vent hose:

Then I put on some new rear seat bolts:

I also finally finished replacing my radiator hoses. Here was what I pulled off:

Here's the new hoses - lower hose, 50mm OD on radiator side, 58mm OD at tee:

water pump hose, 58mm OD on both sides:

This was the last clamp I needed:

Here's what the new ones look like installed:

Then I ran into some issues. I had ordered new seat front bolts, but not sure this is right. Here is the part number:

Here's how they line up:

Vs. my previous solution:

I also wanted to try to mount my seat extension brackets, but not sure this is right either. I got these from Classic Cruisers in Salida, but they didn't have instructions that I recall. I reversed the rear seat brackets as that seemed to make sense.

But I'm not sure how to mount up the front brackets. Anybody seen something like this before? They supplied non-JIS hardware with a captured nut in the bracket plate, so I think this can only go one way but it doesn't really work.

On this side, the hole spacing would suggest it needs to line up this way, but that doesn't really work either.

I guess I'll call Classic Cruisers on Monday and see what's going on. This kit might end up for sale. I hate non-JIS hardware.

Overall, getting closer

 

[kurtnkegger]

Thanks for posting part numbers Matt. I called Stevenson last week and was told the hose from the pipe to the engine are NLA...Hmmm...I'll call them with the part number you supplied.

 

[Rezarf]

Matt I've always needed fender type washers when dealing with my 40 brackets.

 

[subzali]

Thanks for posting part numbers Matt. I called Stevenson last week and was told the hose from the pipe to the engine are NLA...Hmmm...I'll call them with the part number you supplied.

I edited my post above and it is now correct.

 

[subzali]

I started replacing the smaller heater hoses and didn't like what I was finding. I had assumed that 5/8" heater hose would be sufficient for all my hose connections. But 5/8" is a really loose fit on my rear heater lines and a really tight fit on the front heater and block sections.

After some measurements, I found that Toyota uses metric hoses (should I be surprised?). Anyway, here are the measurements:
-Heater supply and return pipes (from the block): 17mm OD
-Front heater connection pipes: 17mm OD
-Heater supply and return hose: 17mm ID, 25mm OD (4mm thickness)
-Branch pipes to rear heater: 14mm OD
-Rear heater connection pipes: 14mm OD
-Rear heater supply and return hose: 14mm ID, 22mm OD (4mm thickness)
-I noted these were the original hoses, stamped "WATER HOSE 76 09 17 S"

So I decided it was going to be best to take my gas tank and everything out again and start over.

After some back and forth with the dealer regarding discontinued part numbers etc. I have found a solution and am super excited.

1. Starting with the supply hose coming off the top of the head going to the heater control valve, the original part number is 99552-30520. It is 520mm long (ref. the ‘520’ in the part number). It is superseded by 99556-31000, which is 1000mm long (ref. the '1000' in the part number). No problem, we have the technology to trim it. The ID measures at about 16mm, so it will be a snug fit over the 17mm fittings. It has an OD of about 23mm, so the wall thickness is about 3-3.5mm.

2. The next guy is the supply hose coming off the bottom of the heater control valve going to the pipe into the cabin, the original part number is 99552-30050. It is 50mm long but NLA with no supersession. But we have plenty of leftover from our previous trim job so it’s no problem to make it. First here is the new hardware holding the valve to the firewall:

3. The next connections are connected on the stubs going to/from the front heater core. The original part number is 99552-30075 and they are 75mm long. They are superseded by 99556-30100, which are 100mm long. Again, trimmed to proper length and fit right up.

4. On the return back to the cooling system, the first hose goes from the firewall and connects to the pipe on the side of the block. There were two part numbers for this one, not sure why, and 99552-30280 (280mm long) is no longer available. 99552-30260 (260mm long) supersedes into 99556-30300 (300mm long). I trimmed it to 260mm (280mm was too long) and fitted it into place.

5. The last one on the return, going between the block and the fitting on the radiator outlet hoses, originally had a part number of 99552-30320 with a length of 320mm. It was superseded by 99556-30500 (500mm length). Trimmed a bit off of this one and connected it up. In hindsight I could have just bought a 99556-31000 and could’ve gotten #1 and #5 out of the one hose.

6. For the rear heater circuit, this has the smaller diameter hoses. Starting with the short stub hoses coming off the pipe near the firewall (there are two of them), the original part number is 99552-20085 (85mm length) and is no longer available with no supersession. That is okay because I will have some extra below.

7. For the two long hoses running at the back of the tranny hump along the floor, the original part number is 99552-20580 and is 580mm long. It is now 99556-20700 and is 700mm long. I trimmed them to length. The new hose has a 13mm ID and 21mm OD so it is a snug fit over the 14mm pipe connections and has about 4mm wall thickness.

This picture shows the new hose on the bottom and how much longer it is than the hoses it needs to replace, hence the trimming required:

In conclusion, here are all the hoses you need to do the replacement:

1x99556-31000 ('1000' = 1000mm length). You will cut this into one 520mm, one 320mm, and one 50mm length to do hoses #1, #2, and #5.

2x99556-30100 ('100' = 100mm length). You will trim each of these down to 75mm for hose #3.

1x99556-30300 ('300' = 300mm length). You will trim this down to 260mm (verify that 280mm is too long first) for hose #4.

2x99556-20700 ('700' = 700mm length). You will trim each of these down to one 580mm and one 85mm for hoses #6 and #7.

 

[subzali]

At this point I was tired of having my FJ40 parked on the street and having to work on it outside. I'm sure my neighbors weren't too happy either. So with the cooling system back together I topped it off and pulled it into the garage. Then our schedule changed and I barely touched it all summer, even though it wasn't quite ready to drive yet.

However, when I had to pull the seat and stuff out again as I mentioned above, I noticed that rain had gotten in through the weatherstripping on the passenger side and was puddling in the bottom of the tub underneath the fuel tank. The rust was beginning to run amok so I decided I really really needed to do something about it. I bought a new fuel tank back in 2008 due to it rusting out from the outside in and they are now NLA so I have had a plan to preserve it that I put into action. I bought some POR-15. I then wire wheeled the tub and did all the prep work to do a coat of POR-15 on the tub and on the fuel tank. I was able to knock that out in a couple of evenings and am relieved that there is a mechanical barrier on my side at this point to keep the rust demons at bay.

I decided, rather than fixing the supposed leak in my power steering system, to just fill it back up and see what happens.

So today was a big milestone in all this. I drove it to work, which is the first time driving it in about 10 months, other than moving it in and out of the garage. Still have a small punchlist of things to do, and wasn't able to get everything done that was needed, but got a couple of pretty majorly invasive "Projects" completed.

 

[PabloCruise]

At this point I was tired of having my FJ40 parked on the street and having to work on it outside. I'm sure my neighbors weren't too happy either. So with the cooling system back together I topped it off and pulled it into the garage. Then our schedule changed and I barely touched it all summer, even though it wasn't quite ready to drive yet.

However, when I had to pull the seat and stuff out again as I mentioned above, I noticed that rain had gotten in through the weatherstripping on the passenger side and was puddling in the bottom of the tub underneath the fuel tank. The rust was beginning to run amok so I decided I really really needed to do something about it. I bought a new fuel tank back in 2008 due to it rusing out from the outside in and they are now NLA so I have had a plan to preserve it that I put into action. I bought some POR-15. I then wire wheeled the tub and did all the prep work to do a coat of POR-15 on the tub and on the fuel tank. I was able to knock that out in a couple of evenings and am relieved that there is a mechanical barrier on my side at this point to keep the rust demons at bay.

I decided, rather than fixing the supposed leak in my power steering system, to just fill it back up and see what happens.

So today was a big milestone in all this. I drove it to work, which is the first time driving it in about 10 months, other than moving it in and out of the garage. Still have a small punchlist of things to do, and wasn't able to get everything done that was needed, but got a couple of pretty majorly invasive "Projects" completed.

That is awesome Matt! I thought tanks for our 40s were still available?
I hope your PS leak is manageable. I have heard that the Lucas stops leaks is a miracle worker. I am working on finding a replacement bushing for the FJ60 PS pumps.
Glad you drove it today. I dropped Cash off at school in the Pig today, and then proceeded to work with our puppy - good times!

 

[subzali]

So the power steering has miraculously not leaked the couple of times I have driven the 40, but I had a coolant leak from one of my recently replaced hoses as well as some oil leaks. Finally had a chance tonight to address the coolant leak. I think it was coming from the bypass hose so I had to remove the alternator to have good access to it.

I then put on mil spec battery connectors, but the posts are too big for some of my wiring so need to make some adjustments there.

Then I replaced my PCV grommet, having never done it before. The old one was hard as plastic, and I suspected a lot of oil vapor escape from that location, so after some prying and pliers work I was able to install the new 90480-18180 grommet in its spot. Now need a new hose to fit the new OEM hose clamps which are bigger than the hose I currently have.

The next thing will be all the oil leaks.

 

[SteveH]

Matt - lots of progress and excellent photos. My FJ40 is hibernating until warmer weather, but my hat is off to those slugging away at problems during the winter.

 

[subzali]

So after driving it a little bit after hooking everything back up - I'm getting a backfire.

The PO warned me of this, Ige has also mentioned it/made fun of it, and now I want to get to the bottom of it.

It is an exhaust backfire that happens upon heavy acceleration when I let off the gas to change gears. Light to moderate acceleration it does not happen.

I don't *think* I have any exhaust leaks, but I suppose I need to check. Though the exhaust system I have now is different than the one that was on it when I bought it, so it has remained consistent over 2 exhaust systems.

I compared the jets from my '78 carb to the '77 ones that I should have, and they are the same. Assuming everything else related to fuel supply is the same between the '77 and '78 carbs, I don't suppose that putting my '77 carb on will fix this problem. Though it's something I would like to do anyway.

So I guess I need to start troubleshooting the emissions system, including primarily the switching valves that control various aspects of operation. I should probably also check my carburetor adjustment, though she hums like a sewing machine and has good power with no stumbling.

Check #1: carburetor adjustments.
*Would timing slightly advanced have anything to do with this?*
Check #2: Exhaust leaks.
Check #3: Emissions control operation, including computer signals.
Check #4: Replace '78 carburetor with '77 carburetor.

 

[60wag]

Check out the coasting richer circuit in the carb. You may be experieicning a lean condition in the exhaust when you let off the accelerator.

 

[subzali]

Check out the coasting richer circuit in the carb. You may be experieicning a lean condition in the exhaust when you let off the accelerator.

I just dug up this old thread with a similar post:
http://risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showpost.php?p=175259&postcount=25

I think what you're referring to is the "TP" system - or throttle position. I'll have to read about it in the manual a bit more, but from memory it prevents an over-rich condition from closing the throttle plates under a high vacuum condition.

But that actually sounds opposite of what you said. I'll look into it.

It will backfire with the air pump hooked up and operating. It does not backfire when the air pump is not hooked up. I guess that would constitute a "leak" in my exhaust system, referenced above.

I think something like in this thread will be my problem:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/40-backfires-only-between-shifts.770976/

 

[bruce285]

Backfiring is caused when unburned fuel in the exhaust system detonates when the exhaust valve open's on a red hot plug. It's root cause is a rich mixture. Check all vac hoses for leaks.

 

[bruce285]

Also check base timing.

 

[Rezarf]

Just need to drive it more.

 

[60wag]

Ok, coasting richer circuit must have been on some other vehicle. On the LC its the decel fuel cut circuit. Check the vacuum switch for proper operation. I've had one of those fail in the past.

 

[L43dean]

I have Colorado collectors tags on my 68' Fj-40 and my 1980 RN-47(Hi-Lux). Both passed emissions to get the tags to start with. Each has been renewed several times since with no retest required. The Hi-Lux uses 29 feet of 4mm vacuum hose! And the 40 has a PCV valve. Good luck Matt.

 

[subzali]

Here's a thought. Some emissions functions are speed related. My speedometer doesn't work, and I think it's a stripped gear in the speedo housing. I know '76 fj40s have the speedo cable going to an emissions box on the firewall, but mine doesn't have that. There is a speed switch on the tranny but I think it's for fourth gear only. Would my non-op speedo be affecting any of this?

 

[subzali]

My TP rpm was a little low, so a screw adjustment using my finger brought it up to 1200rpm with the vacuum disconnected per the FSM.

Next going to check ABV operation. It should blow air out of the bottom when vacuum is suddenly applied.