Squishy!
Rising Sun Member
The time has come for an upgrade to the on board air system. I opted to remove the A/C seeing as it has never really worked. I bought tons of fittings a couple manifolds and other necessities.
The ever-ongoing Red Chili build
- Thread starter Squishy!
- Start date
Squishy!
Rising Sun Member
It will have a 3 gallon tank added when I relocate my batteries and build a drawer system. On the test trip this weekend it did perfect.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Squishy!
Rising Sun Member
The next thing is happening!
4th generation 4runner Diamond axle with a 9.5” Landcruiser rear diff. Pretty soon this trucks going to be more cruiser than minitruck.
4th generation 4runner Diamond axle with a 9.5” Landcruiser rear diff. Pretty soon this trucks going to be more cruiser than minitruck.
Rezarf
Hard Core 4+
Pretty soon this trucks going to be more cruiser than mini truck.
That's quote worthy
aprosise
Hard Core 4+
The next thing is happening!
4th generation 4runner Diamond axle with a 9.5” Landcruiser rear diff. Pretty soon this trucks going to be more cruiser than minitruck.
As they should be
Squishy!
Rising Sun Member
FINALLY getting this thing under the truck. I invested in a Miller 211 and am very happy. As much as I’d love to learn how to TIG, I stretched our budget as is.
Squishy!
Rising Sun Member
And here it is. The Chili is on its own feet again. Also don’t judge my terrible brake line situation. It will be resolved in short order.
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
Looks good Justin. Beginning to wonder if you were still around, missed seeing your posts! And of course the Red Chili!
Very good choice on a machine. The 211 does pretty much everything 4wd related very well. I'm not a fan of the settings on it, but pretty much all the main brands have the alphabet/numeric soup controls these days.
I also like the auto set feature for tacking stuff up. Works well and is super easy especially when putting together a part with different thickness material.
Very good choice on a machine. The 211 does pretty much everything 4wd related very well. I'm not a fan of the settings on it, but pretty much all the main brands have the alphabet/numeric soup controls these days.
I also like the auto set feature for tacking stuff up. Works well and is super easy especially when putting together a part with different thickness material.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I have it's big brother, the Multimatic 215 and honestly the reason I got it instead was that it tells you real numbers for wire speed, current and voltage. I haven't ever used the TIG features.
My $0.02 is only to take the time to do measurements to correlate the dials to actual voltage and IPM. That's just something I like to know. It's fine to use the dial numbers if all you ever use it MM211, but knowing your voltage and wire speed is handy if you ever use another machine or want to consult charts rather than experimenting with different wire or material.
Plus knowing that information may grow hair back on your head. At least I hope so despite that it hasn't yet for me.
My $0.02 is only to take the time to do measurements to correlate the dials to actual voltage and IPM. That's just something I like to know. It's fine to use the dial numbers if all you ever use it MM211, but knowing your voltage and wire speed is handy if you ever use another machine or want to consult charts rather than experimenting with different wire or material.
Plus knowing that information may grow hair back on your head. At least I hope so despite that it hasn't yet for me.
Rezarf
Hard Core 4+
Where is the "like" button?
Looks good Justin.
Looks good Justin.
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
Bingo. Agree 100%. I have a little book with all my settings written down and notes about all the different welds and positions I've done, and if you ever go to weld with another machine, you are stuck starting over. Plus, my reference books all list IPM and voltage. And, IMO, the voltage "conversion" for the numbers is so-so at best.
But, when you are using this machine, its pretty fantastic.
I'm looking at the 252 and the lincoln 256 for a future upgrade. I find that on 1/4" and 3/8" the 211 doesn't run as smoothly, and it hits the duty cycle pretty fast. It also runs better on .030 than .035 (read that on a forum on the web, and found it runs true on my machine as well). Just FYI Justin, you may find that helpful.
One last piece of advice, not that its worth anything, and I would take it with a grain of salt.
I assume you are running ER70S-6. That is a good wire, and while it does a good job moving contaminants out of the bead, I always get much better results and better welds when everything is cleaned shiny bright before welding. It somewhat looks like the tube and spring perch are cold rolled, which if it is, generally doesn't need a lot of prep, but the bolt has the zinc coating on it (tacked in that picture). If it was intended for a permanent mount, you might try cleaning off the zinc on the sides and the top of the bolt head, so zinc and gasses coming off the top don't get in the weld.
Anyway, not trying to be a web CWI or a keyboard expert, and I'm certainly no expert in real life either. And I'm certainly not saying there is any issues with your welds there or that they'll have any problems. Just something that I've learned (the hard way) over the years. Passing it along as it might save you some headache in the future.
Squishy!
Rising Sun Member
Good input guys! I don’t know that I’ll ever have the patience to record voltages and wire speeds. I’m a “get it done and go have fun” fabricator. I take pride in doing a good job, but it is definitely function over form in that regard.
Yes the perches and axle were cold rolled but they were cleaned prior to welding. The zinc I had not considered but you can be I will next time.
I get a free welding class with the purchase of the 211 so I’m hoping I can learn to stick weld. Since I’ve got the Premier Power Welder, I’d like to know how to use it.
Yes the perches and axle were cold rolled but they were cleaned prior to welding. The zinc I had not considered but you can be I will next time.
I get a free welding class with the purchase of the 211 so I’m hoping I can learn to stick weld. Since I’ve got the Premier Power Welder, I’d like to know how to use it.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I believe the yellow means it's zinc-chromate, which gets you both the zinc and the chromate toxicity so you're doubling your chance to get metal fume illness! I'm too old to worry about being cool so I always wear a respirator when grinding and welding. I have the 3M pancake P100 masks that fit OK under my hoods.
And for stick welding I'd definitely wear a mask, the flux burning off just stinks anyway.
Yeah Isaac and I are probably overly OCD about it but do keep a little notebook to jot down settings. It's less frustrating to at least give yourself a starting point when you change between metal types and thickness and stuff.
Squishy!
Rising Sun Member
I’m pretty jealous of your OCD, I just don’t have the patience. Good to know about the fumes, we don’t want that. I was welding outside so minimal exposure is good.
I’m pumped to get the diff filled and all the other stuff in.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
They had Miller 252s in the welding lab. They're OK, obviously more power and can load full size spool, but I didn't think they welded any smoother than my MM215.
Completely agree with that! This is what I run.
AxleIke
Hard Core 4+
I wear a respirator for mig welding, grinding and plasma cutting. I have the 3m and Miller versions. Outdoors is less of an issue but mig smoke in general isn’t great for you. Occasional use, it’s not as big a deal, but I also hate the black booger syndrome. That is just annoying. (Hopefully no one was eating dinner).
Zinc is even more nasty but the good news is that when of you’ve inhaled enough to be an issue, you know it. You’ll probably vomit immediately and feel like you’ve got the flu. Out doors is good and outdoors with a respirator is better.
That said, zinc issues really only come up when welding galvanized. I made some welding curtain frames recently out of conduit cuz it was cheap. Nasty but the respirator took care of it.
Zinc is even more nasty but the good news is that when of you’ve inhaled enough to be an issue, you know it. You’ll probably vomit immediately and feel like you’ve got the flu. Out doors is good and outdoors with a respirator is better.
That said, zinc issues really only come up when welding galvanized. I made some welding curtain frames recently out of conduit cuz it was cheap. Nasty but the respirator took care of it.
P100 filters (magenta) are for particulates only. Great for brake work (most pads and shoes still have asbestos in them and the dust is bad). For fumes I use a yellow and magenta combo cartridge for organic/ acid gas and particulates.
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I believe the yellow means it's zinc-chromate, which gets you both the zinc and the chromate toxicity so you're doubling your chance to get metal fume illness! I'm too old to worry about being cool so I always wear a respirator when grinding and welding. I have the 3M pancake P100 masks that fit OK under my hoods.
And for stick welding I'd definitely wear a mask, the flux burning off just stinks anyway.
Yeah Isaac and I are probably overly OCD about it but do keep a little notebook to jot down settings. It's less frustrating to at least give yourself a starting point when you change between metal types and thickness and stuff.
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DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
3M told me to use 2097 or 2297 (the difference being the 2297 has longer useful life and resilience to damage) for all types of welding including stainless.
https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/5188O/3m-particulate-filter-2097-p100.pdf
Could it be that they are just the highest level that fit on the masks and under the helmet? To get a yellow/magenta would be the full size 60923 cartridge and those wouldn't fit under my welding helmet. Does that fit under yours? Perhaps they are assuming the ventilation reduces fumes to nuisance level. Not sure to tell the truth.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
slightly derailing the thread, but I got one of these and my welding life has been much happier. also looks like P100:
https://www.millerwelds.com/safety/respiratory/half-mask-respirators-m00469
says:
Ideal protection for most welding applications
Filters provide protection from Hexavalent Chromium (Stainless Steel), Zinc Oxide (Galvanized Steel), Manganese, Aluminum, Nickel, Iron Oxide, Copper, Cadmium, Lead and Beryllium fumes.
$26 on amazon, too cheap not to use it.
but now you have me wondering.
https://www.millerwelds.com/safety/respiratory/half-mask-respirators-m00469
says:
Ideal protection for most welding applications
Filters provide protection from Hexavalent Chromium (Stainless Steel), Zinc Oxide (Galvanized Steel), Manganese, Aluminum, Nickel, Iron Oxide, Copper, Cadmium, Lead and Beryllium fumes.
$26 on amazon, too cheap not to use it.
but now you have me wondering.